The thickets of the expansive Rajiv Gandhi National Park at Nagarhole still have signposts explaining the ‘rule of the land’. There are warnings for stray visitors that they are entering the fiefdom of tribals where there may not be a huge cauldron for cooking humans, but there are extra-constitutional punishments for various crimes like Rs 111.25 for drunken misconduct. Self-rule has certainly helped this region. Its grama sabha deals with disputes, families have grouped together and raised loans for educating their children, for medicines, for agriculture and marrying off their daughters. "Money collected through fines is kept aside for the annual fair at the local temple," says Kenchaiah, 30, convenor of Nagarhole Tribal Rights Restoration Committee.
We make a trip to Madaiahna Katte Haddi, another model of self-rule where the tribals have barricaded the territory. "We seldom go to the police station to settle disputes. The verdict of our grama sabha is binding on all," says Kariappa, 55, the yajamana (tribal head). Self-rule is alive and kicking in the 135 villages. As we look at these happy people, it’s clear that they’ve done nothing wrong in cordoning themselves off. It’s just reclaiming their life, and land.
