Over the years the Lakme Fashion Week has earned the reputation for being the hottest, prestigious and most happening fashion event in the country. The Summer/Resort show in the early months of the years, and the Winter/Festive show in August are the two big events of the Lakme Fashion Week. No other fashion event in the country can ever match up to the style quotient of the Lakme Fashion Week.
There were many trends that were spotted at the Lakme Fashion Week 2018. What was noticed was that Indian fashion is truly becoming responsible with its cleaner and greener look. And everybody was talking loudly and walking the ramp portraying the sustainability of fashion.
The major theme that came across at The Lakme Fashion Week 2018 was using of more eco-friendly materials for making clothes. Like every year khadhi was big at the show. Sustainable style is truly back on the agenda of the fashion designers and fashion lover and that was quite obvious at the Lakme Fshion week.
The Lakme Fashion Week saw a lot of dazzle too. There were weaves, textiles were high in shine and gloss with the generous use of sequins and glossy fabrics. Just like the sudden burst of the supernova phenomenon, Swapna Anumolu brought in large doses of dazzle in the form of exquisite embroidery with sequins, glass beads and miniature pearls. The embellishments had a marked botanical element along with an aura of nature.
The bespoke hand crafted embroidery in resham, beads and sequins, revealed lush zardosi work with complex stitches. Using luxe fabrics like georgette, velvet, silk, tulle and lace, the fashion story moved to Indo-west silhouettes, where Swapna’s style contrasts brought power dressing to the forefront.
Capes and blazers looked totally feminine when teamed with lehengas and Indian silhouettes. Kurtis and dhoti salwars came effortlessly together to present a stylish ethnic duo. Gorgeous swirling lehengas, intricately embroidered were worn with trendy blouses - some with cold-shoulders, flirty, frilled necklines or gracious, overlapped, layers. The dupattas that encircled the garments were a dream to behold.
Bustiers along with see-through sharara pants were one of the main highlights of the collection. Experimenting with a versatile range of cuts, each silhouette was designed to utmost perfection.
For a show stopping entry, it was the gorgeous actor Lisa Haydon in a jaw dropping navy blue, structured yet sleek corset, with a heavily embellished peplum and sheer tulle skirt.
The “Supernova” collection by Swapna Anumolu from her ‘Mishru’ label was dedicated to the 21st century woman who desires to blaze a fashion trail with her sartorial choices. Bustiers along with see-through sharara pants were one of the main highlights of the collection. Experimenting with a versatile range of cuts, each silhouette was designed to utmost perfection.
The Lakme Fashion Week spoke highly about revival of weaves too. Proud of his hometown Jaipur, Punit Balana wove the charm and beauty of the Pink City into his “Gulabi Chowk” collection at The Studio during Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2018.
Inspired by the memorable architectural wonders of Jalebi Chowk, Sheesh Mahal and Amer Fort, Punit’s creations came to life with the use of the 500-year-old Sanganer hand block printing technique. Natural organic dyes, colours and eco- friendly techniques were given the perfect balance when Punit used the intricate wooden blocks in his collection.
The Dori work as well as the glass embroidery was turned into motifs inspired by the traditional monuments. The fabrics revolved around luxurious textures that were turned into interesting dhoti jumpsuits, the swirling festive kedia, traditional ghararas and the ever-favourite saris with dramatically structured blouses; the same textures also appeared on elegant footwear to complement the garments.
The Gulabi Chowk collection by Punit Balana was aimed at dressing trendy men and women, who enjoy combining traditional crafts, textiles and styles with a creative twist. Bollywood’s talented actor, Radhika Apte, known for effortless style, looked chic in a beautiful, steel-grey halter gown with an embellished bodice as she walked down the ramp for Punit Balana.
Designer Neha Agarwal’s ‘Agami’ label presented ‘Pushtaini’ inspired by the wondrous age-old traditional craft of Madhubani. Neha’s fashion experiments have always brought forth some admirable results and for the coming season, her attempts to merge Indian art and fashion proved to be a thumping success.
Creatively processed in the form of surface ornamentation, which was the driving force of the ensembles. When it’s a question of an artisanal mix that comes from dual worlds, there has to be some dramatic consequences that could push fashion on a more exciting level. Neha reinvented zardosi into contemporary designs that in turn brought the buyer closer to her roots. The luxuriously panel and patch embroidered ensembles, with interesting silhouettes of concept pre-stitched saris and dhoti skirts which glided down the catwalk were stunners; and the live music set the right atmosphere for the looks.
Designer Ritu Kumar’s collection was a bright splurge of colours like burgundy, red and mustard. Detailing was as exciting as the colours, with leather braiding and clean metal accents that appeared on the ensembles to further accentuate the theme. Her fashion story was based on the tribal art works of the regions but it was the fabrics – chiffons, cottons, silks and soft crêpes that gave a great fashion movement.
Opening with a colourful, halter asymmetric maxi, the show moved into top gear with denim shorts, capelets with sparkle, mini smocks, kimono style minis and off-shoulder smocked- waist, long dresses. Tasselled skirts over shorts, kaftans, a mini sack dress with sequins, ombré flared gathered mini and a multi-coloured maxi tent gave some more fun options. The baby doll mini with shoulder cut-outs, a dungaree with printed shirt, tiny shrug with extra-long back tassels and the final gold corset dress with a sheer black maxi skirt offered more options for the coming season.
To ensure that the Wild West theme was quite apparent, corduroy dungarees were teamed with printed tops. The characteristic fringe detailing that was often favoured on the gaucho pants, appeared as a feisty trim to evoke the Wild West theme. It was all about getting into the great retro fashion of a bygone era, awakening the ‘Native Spirit’.
Soumodeep Dutta’s collection at the Lakme Fashion Week was unique. Keeping the lotus and life in Buddhism as an inspiration, the designer’s fashion tale was an analogy of opposites. Using black and grey against red and white, the line was a quiet symphony of weaves, embellishments and craft.
Giving an earthy feel to the garments, Soumodeep ensured the handloom festive apparel had touches of age-old traditions. The Antariya or Uttariya now known as the sari could be a piece of cloth worn in different ways, which prompted the designer to allow the wearer to experiment with the tailored garments in the collection. Using drapery as a prime detailing, Soumodeep used a single piece of cloth to relate a style story.
The fabrics revealed Ikat motifs woven in Orissa that were at the start of the list. The handlooms of Bengal and Orissa also came together seamlessly, while the Kantha and its variations done by artisans added to the finesse of the garments. Bringing in more interesting options, Soumodeep added a short jacket with asymmetric mid-calf length pants worn with a long-sleeved choli and asymmetric shrug. Introducing men’s wear this season, Soumodeep showed dhoti pants with an intricately woven dupatta all in shades of grey, and a kurta and churidars combo.
Urvashi Kaur’s colour card was an exploration of discreet monochromes with grey, black and olive heading the list; while pale salmon and winter sage balanced the tones with a sudden pop of bright fuchsia that brought in a surprise element. The beauty of natural elements gave Urvashi the creative thrust into the linear patterns that were perfectly translated into her signature hand block prints and some expert micro pleating. This very interesting detailing and texturing technique was bestowed on hand woven Khadi, sheer Kota Doriya and matka silk. Adding further flavour to the fabrics story were crinkle cotton, sheer noil, silk linen and the amazing use of Shibori patterns.
The androgynous nature of the ensembles was very evident as the sharply tailored separates were brought in layers of sheer and opaque for the relaxed silhouettes. A variety of easy shapes appeared in quick succession on the runway. Jumpsuits were stylishly assembled as eye-catching options. Shirt-dresses offered practical fashion for the busy woman on the go and the oversized apparel ensured that the collection had a trans- seasonal appeal.
While the garments displayed a multi-dimensional functional wardrobe for the coming season; the creative merging of the silhouettes, fabrics and detailing worked in perfect unison just like the universe that moves effortlessly and was the unconventional inspiration of the collection.
Keeping the anti-fit theme of the garments, the light grey oversized, crushed, crinkled, midi dress with flowing cape had tie-ups at the bodice. The translucent striped comfortable shirt and culottes gave the collection a very relaxed and yet a sporty look.
