Doljatra, as Holi is known in West Bengal, is celebrated with much fanfare across the state. Celebrations at the Vaishnav dominant towns of Nabadwip, Mayapur and Santipur are no less than that of Mathura-Vrindavan. Poet Rabindranath Tagore had introduced a season-based festive calendar for the university township of Shantiniketan where it is celebrated as a Spring Festival (Vasant Utsav). However, if you are looking for a quiet celebration or keen to know how the festival is traditionally celebrated in Bengal, head to Amadpur, a sleepy town in the Purba Bardhaman district of West Bengal and about two hours’ drive from Kolkata.
The former zamindar (landlord) family of Amadpur, who never abandoned their family seat, though members have scattered across the globe, still observe the major festivals here to the delight of the local people, who join in large numbers.
The celebrations begin on the eve of Dol, with the installation of the ‘Lakshmi Janardan shaligram shila’ at the Dol Mancha in front of the Chaudhuri home. The Dol Mancha is a typical permanent structure (built on a platform and in angular shape, and often carved) seen in many parts of Bengal built specifically to celebrate the festival of colours. The Dol Mancha in Amadpur is located on the bank of a huge lake. Then a huge bonfire is lit on the steps leading down to the lake; a series of rituals are performed, essentially driving away all that is bad and ushering in the good. This is called ‘chanchor’. The day ends with the return of the ‘shaligram shila’ to the Radha-Madhav Temple.
The Chaudhuris likely settled down in Aamdpur in the 1600s. The family deity of Radha-Madhav is housed in an old and richly carved terracotta temple, not far from the river bank. On the day of Doljatra, the daily puja of the idols are held at dawn after which they are carried to the Dol Mancha in a procession to the accompaniment of chants by the public. Among several rituals performed here, one is the ‘Deb Dol’, where the deities are believed to play with coloured powder or ‘abir’ among themselves. Subsequently, the family members and the local people offer coloured powder to the idols. This marks the official start of the festival. Usually there is no boisterous play of colours around the Dol Mancha. Instead, people retire to their homes to play with colour.
One of the Chaudhuri homes has been converted to a heritage homestay. The 400 year old homestead lies on one side of a quadrangle which has four two-hundred years old and carved terracotta Shiva temples along its two arms. The lake-end arm of the quadrangle has the Dol Mancha. There is a sprawling mango orchard on the far bank of the lake.
If you can add an extra day to the itinerary, you can take a look around the town too, starting with the Anandamayee Kali Temple next door. There are several old terracotta temples and refurbished Kali temples scattered around the town. The idols of the goddess are huge and named accordingly – as Boro Ma, Mejo Ma, Chhoto Ma, etc. There is also an old ashram inside a lightly wooded area. Or if you are inclined to stay put, the river bank is an ideal place to sit and watch nature, read a book or set up an easel to paint.
Information: Amadpur is about 100km from Kolkata and takes around two hours’ to reach by car. You may also take a train to Memari from Howrah rail station. From Memari, take an autorickshaw/toto to the homestay. The heritage homestay (Baithakkhana Amadpur) offers air-conditioned rooms well-furnished with period furniture and have attached baths. Room booking has to be made in advance. The kitchen is capable of serving many Bengal specialty dishes.
Outside of winter – which is seasonally the best time to visit Amadpur – you can also visit during the major festivals such as Holi, Ratha-yatra, Durga Puja and Kali Puja (Diwali).
For booking and other details, call 098310 31183.
