If you’re heading into Trivandrum by bus or train, the Indian Coffee House right next to the KSRTC bus stand serves as an excellent pit stop before you plunge into the frenzy of Kerala’s capital city. And if you’re not, it’s still such a lovely, quirky place to pass an hour or two.
Even before you enter, you’ll know it’s a Laurie Baker building. The signature of the late architect who made Trivandrum his home is all over this slightly leaning tower of kaapi, most prominently in the pretty jaali work which lets in natural light and air. Baker pioneered sustainable architecture in India and the curved brick walls, enclosing more area for the same amount of building material than straight walls, are a hallmark of his style.
There are several ICH outlets in the city but the Maveli Café, as it’s popularly known, is a Trivandrum institution. Beyond the cashier’s desk, the floor ascends in a spiral, with built-in tables set along the outer edge all the way to the top. Bearers ferry food and liquid refreshment up and down in their crisply starched uniforms. Don’t expect the service to be as crisp though. But at those prices (Rs 50-100 per person) you shouldn’t complain. Concentrate on the food instead. You can have beef cutlets with your cup of steaming kaapi. Or a heaped plate of their famous biryanis. Or that perennial fallback, the sambar-vada. Don’t forget to pick up some coffee powder on your way out.
Timings: 7.30am-10pm. Address: Indian Coffee House, near KSRTC bus stand, Thampanoor, Trivandrum; 0471-3214505