Walk down Pakmodia Street, the narrow bylane that saw the rise of Mumbai’s biggest don, Dawood Ibrahim. Then down to Yakub Gali, just off Pakmodia Street, which was Dawood’s chosen hiding place for his illicit business. Less than 20 minutes away is the famous JJ Square and Gate No. 6, witness to innumerable meetings and exchanges. A short cab ride and stop by for the special sheekh roti and paranthas at Hotel Sarvi in Nagpada or a quick bite at Gulshan-e-Iran Hotel, Crawford Market. Loiter around the pavement outside Jabbari Hotel, Bhendi Bazaar. Check out Pydhonie and its heritage police station. Walk around Ahmed Sailor School, where Dawood Ibrahim studied till Class 8. Then hail a cab and for a little over the minimum fare, find yourself outside the Dagdi Chawl, fortress of the last in-house don (and now MLA) Arun Gawli.
Stop for a quick bite at Imdadiya Bakery, famous for its butter biscuits and maska-khari. Get there early as both varieties tend to run out very fast. The bakery is open from 7 am onwards. Noor Mohammedi for nalli nihari and Suleman Bakery for baked breads and firni. Bara Handi for its mixed stew. Top on taste, low on hygiene. Be prepared.