1. Sat Tal, as the name suggests, is a group of several once interconnected lakes set against a backdrop of oak and pine. For swimming, the pick of the bunch is Garur Tal (aka ‘Panna Tal’, pic), which is shielded from the road and dhabas that blight the other lakes. Nearby Naukuchiyatal is another fine spot for a dip. Particularly if you’re at the lakefront Lake Resort (05942-247183) or the Déjà Vu bungalow (247316). It is 6hrs from Delhi via Rampur.
2. The trekking trail to Ruinsara Tal (dist. Uttarkashi) is dotted with picturesque villages. The commonest image of Taluka has fields of chaulhai burning a bright crimson in the foreground, with the old resthouse set behind and the Swargarohini range in the background. Seema is on the trekking route to Har ki-dun, on the left bank of the Supin which comes down to form the Tons. Best of all is Osla (pic), on the right bank. Osla is more traditional and has lovely old buildings and a Duryodhan temple. 161km/7.5hrs from Mussoorie to Sankhri. Taluka is a 10km/ 5hr trek from Sankhri; Seema and Osla 12km/6hr beyond Taluka. Where to stay: GMVN guesthouses at Osla and Taluka (011-33350481,www.gmvnl.com).
3. One of the loveliest patches of Himalayan oak in Kumaon, the Mukteshwar forest, is ideal for hiking and birdwatching. This forest (managed by the Indian Veterinary Institute in Sitla) stretches 12km from Sitla to Sargakhet. The road which runs through the forest makes for the easiest walk. There’s also a path from Sitla to Mukteshwar which takes about 45 minutes. If you want to go exploring other forest trails make sure you take someone who knows the area. Where to stay: Near Sargakhet (east of Mukhteshwar forests): Mountain Trail (05942-286040/240) or Somerset Lodge (286165). In Sitla (west): Sitla Estate (05942-2863300, www.sitlaestate.com).
4. The fishing season in Uttaranchal is coming to a close (end June); now is the time to head to the Ramganga near Corbett for Mahseer, or the Asi Ganga near Uttarkashi for the more exotic brown trout (of Scottish descent!) and rainbow trout (of Norwegian descent). In Ramganga, stay either at Camp Forktail Creek or in tents. Near Asi Ganga, contact: Vinay Badola of Otter Reserves (www.otterreserves.com)
5. Far off the beaten track, and a 2km walk from the small village of Matial in Kumaon, the Jilling Estate consists of five cottages, dispersed through the forests which offer simple accommodation—no TVs or phones here. A tour of some of the nearby villages and the dense deciduous forests that surround the estate is a delight. There’s plenty of wildlife—from leopards to wild boar and barking deer. Take the Ranikhet Express from Old Delhi to Kathgodam and then a cab to Matial (38km). From Matial, Jilling is a 2km/1hr walk; you can hire a pony. Contact: 05942-246186, 9412383348; www.jilling.net
6. In exploring the more famous parts of Uttaranchal it’s quite possible to ignore the tiny little gems. Lansdowne is so quiet and well hidden that you may only realise you’ve reached once you turn past the gates of the Garhwal Rifles Cantonment. Enjoy walking the lovely spruce and silver fir forests around the town. From Delhi, Lansdowne is a 6-hour drive to Kotdwar up good hill roads, and then another 1-2hrs. Stay at the GMVN Rest House (Rs 350-800; 01386-262509). Or head to Munsiyari. At over 8,000ft, the town offers an unbeatable view of the magnificent Panchchuli range as well as walks through forests of oak and rhododendron. Hike to Mesar Kund, a quiet lake 45mins along a paved path uphill from the forest resthouse or to Khaliya Top (six hours). From Delhi take NH24 till Rampur, then NH87till Kathgodam before following the state highway from Almora (7-8hrs); Munsiyari is another 7-8hrs away. Accommodation is in homestays; the local Van Panchayats can give you options in the villages in the area. Contact Malika Virdi, Sarpanch of the Sarmoli-Jainti Van Panchayat (05961-222367/222667).
7. Ride through the spectacular sal and teak forests of Corbett country, through streams whose crystal clear waters brim with mahseer. The Corbett Horse Safari organises trips in the forests around the Corbett National Park, beginning at their Corbett Riverside Resort in Garjia. The first day’s riding consists of a 16km uphill ride to the village of Bhalon crossing riverbeds in elephant country. The next 8km passes through forest. Day two takes you to Pawalgarh, and day three to Kaladungi, the birthplace of Corbett. More relaxed seven-day safaris are also on offer. Accommodation and tariff: The first and last nights are spent at the Corbett Riverside Resort. On safari, accommodation is either in forest rest houses or in tents. Contact: Corbett Horse Safari (011-26565191, 9891165766; www.corbettriverside.com)
8. The remarkable caves of Patal Bhubaneshwar, which have rock formations worshipped as gods, remain largely unexplored. Stalactite and stalagmite formations, and striations on the ground give the impression that the entire cave rests on the back of Sheshnag. The main cave is 105m long with an 85-step descent. Some passages are extremely narrow, requiring you to squat. Guides are available. It is 91km from Pithoragarh. You can stay at KMVN resthouse at Bagnath (011-23712296, www.kmvn.org).
9. Over the last 50 years, the old colonial resort of Nainital has suffered more than its share of retribution for the inequities of Empire. But as the second city of Uttaranchal, it deserves a second look for the considerable charms that survive. For all the clamour of the mall, the lake is still sheltered by thickly forested slopes, where Raj-era decorum (and décor) still prevails at two royal retreats now open to the public. The Palace Belvedere (seat of the Rajas of Awagarh) has doubles (011-2626650-55, www.welcomheritage.com) and views of the lake, while the grander Balrampur House sits amidst sprawling lawns (05942-236236, 011-23384495).
10. For a man after whom the highest mountain in the world is named, George Everest, the first Surveyor General of India, didn’t get very far—well, he got up to Hathipaon, on a small hillock (known as the Hathipaon Hill) near Mussoorie, on the edges of the Himalayan range where the last bit of the Great Arc survey was completed. ‘Hathipaon House’, as it is now known, was his house and laboratory. Its crumbling remains still stand. It’s worth a visit, even if you are not a cartography fan. Hathipaon is 6km from Mussoorie.
11. The Narayanswami Ashram, established in 1936 (17km from Tawaghat, at an altitude of 3,017m), looks like a small alpine castle set in the middle of fir trees and a beautiful garden. The building is apparently an old British bungalow, over 100 years old. It’s also close to the Askot Sanctuary. Yoga classes are held at the Ashram. Another ashram worth visiting is the Mayawati Ashram located 22km from Champawat and 9km from Lohaghat, at an altitude of 1,940m. The ashram is situated in the middle of a secluded old tea estate.
12. The Maharaja of Tehri’s hunting lodge in Kodiya has recently been resurrected as the Ambiya Himalayan Paradise in partnership with the forest department. The Raj-era architecture is intact, but its two large bedrooms (and anterooms) are now decorated with Tibetan thangkas. Kodiya has a full time yoga instructor and guide.
Contact: 0135-2435558, www.bestkodiyahimalayanretreat.org Chamba (not the Himachali one!) is 85km/2.5hrs from Rishikesh. Kodiya is 18km from Chamba, a little off the Chamba-Dhanaulti-Mussoorie road.
13. This is one of the most romantic sights in the Himalaya—acres and acres of meadow, a steep ridge arching up into the dusk and, above, the enormous western flank of Trishul. Bedni Bugyal is also a major way station on the Nanda Raj Jatra, a ritual procession held every 12 years. Ali Bugyal, Bedni’s sister bugyal, is an easy four-hour descent from Bedni.
From Almora to Lohajang via Gwaldham, it’s 145km/5-6hrs by taxi. The trek to Bedni starts from Lohajang. The first halt, Wan (an easy 6hr climb) has a forest resthouse (FRH). From Wan to Bedni is a difficult 4-6hr climb. The only shelter in the bugyals is in shepherds’ huts.
14. Of all the forest rest houses scattered along the trails and mountain paths of Uttaranchal, the forest rest house at Binsar is probably the best known. For good reason: it’s located in the middle of the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, in the middle of oak and deodar forests, and it offers breathtaking views of the a range of Himalayan peaks, including the Nanda Devi. Like most other forest resthouses, the one at Binsar is old—so old that the forest department doesn’t even know when it was built. And it’s got everything that nostalgia would require—damp plaster, musty carpets, layers of dust, and Ganga Singh to dust it off. There’s tons of wildlife around—at least 166 bird species, and even a solitary leopard. Make sure to trek up to Jhandi Dhar (Zero Point), the highest point in Binsar for the best views. The FRH can be booked from Almora (05962-30065) or from Ramnagar (05947-251489, 251376). For a tour of some of the lovely but lesser known forest rest houses, contact Minakshi Pandey and Ritish Suri of Camp Forktail Creek (05947-287804, www.campforktailcreek.com).
15. There’s a pot of jam at the end of this rainbow. From Mussoorie, endure the tortuous climb up to the cantonment of Landour. When you think you’ve gotten away from it all, you will arrive at the tiniest market in all India–the Sisters’ Bazaar. The shop which Sobha Ram Prakash set up here in the early 1900s is a bit of hill legend now. Come to Prakash Stores for some fine, locally produced, cheddar and the occasional gouda. They sell peanut butter and jams (gooseberry, apricot and plum) besides. Correctly called A. Prakash & Co, the store may be contacted at 0135-2632544.