GRAND TOURS
1 All-inclusive
For the vast numbers of Indians who have yet to taste the deliciousness that is Europe, the guided package tour is a sensible introduction. Most major tour agents have preset Europe vacations that reinvent the ‘grand tour’ for the Indian sensibility and offer a range of tours of comparable itinerary and duration. The 15-day Europe tour is most popular with the first-time visitor — a frenetic two weeks of rushing about Italy, France, Switzerland, Germany, Belgium, Holland, France, UK and more, ‘maximising’ the sights and sounds of the various regions. But even first-time travellers have got demanding and the trade has responded with somewhat differentiated tour options: the Thomas Cook ‘European Extravaganza’ tour, for instance, includes all meals but offers travellers a choice of Indian or local; all meals that the Raj Travels tour includes, on the other hand, are strictly “delicious Indian”. Cox & Kings offers its 15D tours as Marathi or Gujarati group specials. Prices for a 15D all-inclusive tour (airfare, sightseeing, nearly all meals) are in the region of Rs 1.65-2.35 lakh per person. Details at www.thomascook.co.in, www.coxandkings.com, www.sotctours.com, www.rajtravels.com
2 Luxe bus
Somewhere between the over-coddled, all-inclusive, made-for-Indians package tours and totally independent travel are the coach tours offered by international tour operators. The biggest and best-known of these is Cosmos. While theirs too are budget, escorted tours, the differences are several: the tour group is international; few meals are included (so you eat local most of the time); ‘free time’ is greater; the choice of optional tours is wider. Cosmos offers a wide range of Europe holidays, including 15-day tours that can compare with the Indian tours in terms of destinations, but prices quoted always exclude international airfares: the 15D ‘Wonders of Europe’ tour begins at $1,555 (approx Rs 65,310) but high season prices are $1,899 (close to Rs 80,000). Globus, from the same company, offers ‘first-class’ versions of the Cosmos tours. See www.globusandcosmos.com
3 The backpacker trail
The backpacking universe functions along exactly the reverse principles as the escorted package tours — it’s all about ‘doing your own thing’. Another guiding principle is keeping costs down. In a sense, there’s nothing to it really — just trawl the web for the lowest fare to Europe for months, get on your uncomfortable cut-price flight, get off and begin backpacking your way around the continent. It’s possible to survive in Europe on a daily budget of 25 euros (approx Rs 1,400). That’s what the ‘free spirits’ do. But the rest of us can always use some help: try the Backpacker Co. Not a traditional tour operator, they facilitate Europe trips by helping you figure out how to use economical hop-on hop-off bus systems and camping sites, as well as prebook and plan travel itineraries. See www.thebackpackerco.com
4 Mobile freedom
This is the ultimate in independent travel — rent a car and go roam. Driving holidays in Europe are growing in popularity; they’re among the easiest ways to have a holiday. With the wondrous Internet, simply choose and pre-book your car before you leave home, pick it up when you arrive and set off. A good Europe road map is all the company you need. Hiring a small car, say, a Volkswagen Golf, costs approximately Rs 30,000 for a week. Book at Europcar (www.europcar.com) or Avis (www.avisworld.com).
5 The water road
The grand tour of Europe was once a combination of sea, road and rail travel. Now you can earn your cultural credentials luxuriating aboard a posh boat. Go cruising along the Danube, Europe’s only major river to flow from end to end. Try Avalon Waterways’ ‘North Sea-Black Sea Cruise’, which begins in Bucharest and ends in Amsterdam. Countries you’ll have visited: Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, Hungary, Austria, Germany and Holland. Fares begin at $6,729 (approx. Rs 2.8 lakh); shorter cruises also available. See www.avalonwaterways.com
ISLAND GETAWAYS
6 Sardinia
The second largest island in the Mediterranean, this is a mountainous land surrounded by clear seas. While the tranquil waters are great for diving, the island itself has several pretty towns, stunning beaches and a number of historic sites. The Costa Smeralda or the Emerald Coast in the north has become the playground of the rich and the famous, with prices to match. But venture down the coast and into the interiors and you’ll stumble upon a different Sardinia — cities and towns like Cagliari and Alghero, igloo-like stone structures known as nuraghi, and quieter (and cheaper!) beaches. Getting there There are regular ferries from Genova, Civitavecchia and Livorno. Cagliari, Alghero and Olbia have airports with connections from Malpensa Airport in Milan.
7 Gavdos
Greece has about 1,400 islands, 227 of which are inhabited. Some have great beaches, others a colourful nightlife, and still others picture-postcard villages. Most of them are overrun by tourists. So if it is solitude you seek, sail out to the southernmost island of Gavdos. With a permanent population of less than 40, this rocky and wind-blown island attracts an eclectic mix of artists, worn-out hippies and philosophers. You can join their ranks: pick your spot, ideally near a sea juniper and string a hammock on its branches. Getting there Ferries from Southwest Crete (Paleochora, Sougia and Chora Sfakion) run twice a week. But if the winds are not favourable, be prepared to be marooned for a bit. See www.gavdos-online.com for additional information.
8 Malta
Malta is made up of two main islands — Malta and Gozo — and a few smaller islands, of which Comino is the most important. On Malta, Valletta and the medieval capital Mdina have some excellent architecture and are ideally explored on foot. Gozo is an island of farmers and fishermen. Getting there Alitalia connects Delhi and Malta via Milan.
9 Corsica
Corsica is a lush island, with forests, tile-roofed stone villages, tall mountains and beautiful valleys. In Balagne, you’ll find hillside villages straight out of a fairy tale. In the north is the 40km-long peninsula of Cap Corse with pretty fishing villages and beaches. Then there is Filitosa in Taravo Valley, where you’ll find a number of prehistoric menhirs. Getting there Air France connects Corsica with mainland France (Nice is the nearest airport). You can also travel by ferry from both France and Italy.
10 Iceland
Nature is at its most eccentric in Iceland. Glaciers, volcanoes, hot springs, lava deserts, mountains, thundering rivers and waterfalls…you’ll find them all. This is the perfect destination for adventure enthusiasts. You can go on glacier tours, river rafting, cross-country horse riding, sea angling, river fishing, hiking, whale watching trips and more. The other attraction is the fresh air; the country runs on clean geo-thermal energy, so there’s no pollution. Getting there A number of hopping flights connect Delhi and Reykjavik.
GREAT TRAIN EXPRESS
11 Orient Express
Think gleaming wood, polished brass, soft towels and crisp linen. And your own personal steward. Yes, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is the most coveted train journey in the world. The elegantly restored carriages and onboard fine dining rekindle the romance of the golden age of travel. While the classic Paris-Istanbul run is only offered once a year (6D/5N; £4,350; next departure: August 29, 2008), several shorter itineraries (London-Paris-Venice-Rome, Venice-Budapest-London, etc) allow you to experience the train round the year. From this year, there’s an exciting new option as well: Venice-Krakow-Vienna-Paris-London. See www.orient-express.com
12 Glacier Express
Among the plethora of scenic rail journeys that Switzerland offers, you’ll be hard put to choose just one. But if you must, book a seat on the Glacier Express between Zermatt and St Moritz/Davos. Fitted with panoramic windows, the train moves through 91 tunnels and across the Oberalp Pass (2,033m), a stunning journey into the heart of the Alps. Watch out for when the Express chugs across the Landwasser viaduct, an iconic moment. Over an eight-hour journey, the Glacier Express takes in the Graubünden region of Switzerland and the sunny Valais region with its glacier landscape. See www.glacierexpress.ch
13 Elipsos Trenhotel
Every night, two very special sleeper trains run between Paris and Spain. The Francisco de Goya goes to Madrid, while the Joan Miró heads for Barcelona. Both offer well-appointed bedrooms, a charming restaurant and a lively bar. The Madrid-bound train offers views of snowcapped peaks and of the Spanish royal palace at El Escorial just before rolling into Madrid. On the Joan Miró, you have the option of alighting at Figueres, home to a stunning Salvador Dali museum. Operated under the Trenhotel Elipsos banner, these trains are reputedly the best-equipped international night trains in Europe. Passengers have the option of sharing a roomette or booking one all for themselves. Accommodation ranges from ‘Grand Class’ sleepers offering cabins with a washbasin and shower to ‘Super-reclining’ seats. The Trenhotels also connect Spain with Milan and Zurich. Fares start as low as 86 euro. See www.elipsos.com
14 Danube Express
The newest kid on the block, the Danube Express promises to give the Orient Express some stiff competition. This luxurious Central European train hotel, based out of Budapest, Hungary, lets you tour the region in style. Several exciting itineraries are on offer: ‘Central Europe by Luxury Train’ (Budapest, Krakow, Prague and Berlin); Transylvania and the Bosphorus (Budapest, Romania, Bulgaria and Istanbul); ‘Vienna, Lakes and Mountains’ (Budapest, Lake Balaton, Vienna, the Semmering Pass, Graz and return to Budapest); and ‘The Polish Explorer’ (Budapest, Auschwitz, Krakow, Malbork, Gdansk and Warsaw). Fares start at £1,600 per person (besides all meals and excursions, this also includes return flights from the UK). See www.danube-express.com
Need to know…
Eurail pass
With concerns about carbon emissions peaking and airfares skyrocketing, trains are enjoying a quiet revival. In Europe, where trains are punctual and comfortable, they make perfect sense. They depart from city centres (so no long ride to the airport). Besides, taking a night train saves you the bother of booking a hotel room. So do get your Eurail pass before you leave. But which one? A boggling number are on offer: Global (20 countries), Select (3-5), Regional, Single Country, Flexi, Youth, Seniors… So just log on to the website of Rail Europe India (www.raileurope.co.in), the official agent for Eurail passes in India. You can compare various passes here before booking the right one online (and the payment is in rupees). The site also offers bookings on the Elipsos Trenhotels.
WILD EUROPE
15 Bialowieza Forest, Poland
The Bialowieza Primeval Forest, which straddles the border between Belarus and Poland, is the only vestige of the dense forests which once covered the plains of Europe. It was a royal hunting reserve till the 19th century, declared a national park in 1932, and designated a World Heritage Site in 1993. The forests here are primary deciduous and mixed, a mosaic of oak, pine, spruce and hornbeam. The main attractions are the gigantic oak trees, some of which have circumferences of more than 7m, and have individual names (like Great Mamamuszi, Tsar Oak, Emperor of the South, etc). The reserve is also home to some remarkable animal life, including rare mammals such as the wold, lynx, otter and nearly 300 European bison (which were reintroduced here). For more information see the park website, www.bpn.com.pl.
16 Black Forest, Germany
The Black Forest with its dense forest, towering peaks, glacial lakes and stunningly green valleys is Germany’s largest (12,000 sq km) and most popular national park. Here you can see landscapes that have disappeared from other parts of Western Europe. The forests here are primarily fir and pine, and the wildlife ranges from lynx to the giant Baden worm, and more domesticated species like the Hinterwälder cow. A well-planned network of paths runs through the park, notably the trail from Pforzheim to Basel. Schwarzwald Tourismus (+49-0761-8964644, www.blackforest-tourism.com) organises seven-day hikes (with stays in small hotels) on this route. Prices start at 335 euro.
17 Cairngorms, Scotland
The Cairngorms National Park covers 3,800 sq km of mountains, moorlands and lochs in Scotland. Most of the park consists of one large elevated plateau surrounded by low glacial mountains. The Caledonian Forest in the park is the last remaining primeval forest in the British Isles. This is a good birding area and is also home to the last wild herd of reindeer on the British Isles. See www.cairngorms.co.uk
18 Carpathian Beech Forests
One of the least explored and best preserved patches of green in Europe are the Carpathian beech forests in Ukraine. These complex temperate forests stretch along a 185km axis from the Rakhiv mountains and the Chornohirskyi range in Ukraine to the Bokovske Vrchy and Vihorlat mountains in Slovakia. These forests are the habitat of Europe’s largest populations of brown bear, wolf and lynx. Operators such as Outdoor Ukraine (www.outdoorukraine.com) can organise trips for you.
19 Lapland
Lapland, a vast area of frozen lakes and forests, which extends for hundreds of kilometres above the Arctic Circle, is Finland’s true wilderness. In summer, you can hike through the national parks through the endless daylight. The Lemmenjoki National Park, about 50km southwest of Inari in northern Lapland, has forests of birch, pine and spruce, and a permanent population of brown bear and moose. Hiking trails extend for over 70km, and there are several free wilderness huts to stay in. See www.laplandfinland.com
GOURMET HOLIDAYS
20 Maximum beer
Mention beer and Germany comes to mind first, and then perhaps Belgium. But with a long tradition of brewing — the first Czech brewery was built at Cerhenice in 1118 — the Czech lands occupy an important place in beer legend. Czechs glug 156 litres per person annually, more beer than any other country in the world. There are over 450 Czech beers from over 100 breweries. Big and small breweries dot Bohemia but a beer trail must necessarily include Ceske Budejovice, the birthplace of Budvar; and Pilsner Urquell, the home of the original and much-loved Pilsner. There are Pilsner imitations but nowhere else will you find the unique bittersweet taste that comes from the town’s soft water, Zatec hops, Moravian malt and a proprietary strain of yeast.
21 Smoked halibut and reindeer
Pickled herrings are touted as the quintessential Swedish food but there is a variety of delights to sample, for the country has gained a considerable reputation for culinary excellence. A food trail in West Sweden can be a rewarding gastronomical experience. There is a selection of fresh, pickled and smoked seafood — herring, halibut, crayfish, salmon and eel — and even game meats such as elk and reindeer. Start at Gothenburg, Sweden’s culinary capital, with its clutch of Michelin-accredited restaurants and make sure to touch Trollhattan and the island of Flotan where you must try the Lobster Flaton.
22 Wines on the table
Snobbish wine lovers are sitting up and taking notice of table wines coming from the Douro Valley in Portugal. The rugged region is already known for its port wines and in fact is the first wine region to be classified as a Unesco World Heritage Site. The credit for the premium wines though go to a handful of winemakers who’re using indigenous grapes like touriga nacional, a rich, heat-loving fruit that has the potential to make world-class red wine. Experts are agreeing the wines are going from good to outstanding. A visit is made even more agreeable at the plush resort Quinta da Romaneira (1,000 euro per couple, all inclusive; +351-254-732-432, www.maisonsdesreves.com).
23 Cook it up
Perhaps the only joy that compares to eating food is making it. Irish food is making a comeback and responsible for this in no small way is the renowned Ballymaloe Cookery School (Cork, Ireland; +353-21-4646785, www.cookingisfun.ie). Darina Allen and her staff are passionate cooks and dedicated teachers and there are several courses to choose from: 30 short courses lasting from half a day to five (from 70 euro) are on offer, or you could do the 12-week intensive grind (9,395 euro). Stay at Ballymaloe House (from 140 euro; +353-21-4652531, www.ballymaloe.ie) is comfortable.
24 Mushrooming all over
The forests of Pindos in northern Greece harbour an astonishing 86 species of mushroom and the region uses these in fascinating ways in its food. Walk in the forest, learn to identify and gather mushrooms, and tuck in mushroom delicacies: soup, pies and veal with herbs. While you’re there, visit the region of Meteora and raft on the Aspropotamos river.
WONDERFUL PRIVACY
25 Slow holidays
If your idea of a perfect holiday is to spend relaxed time at home, so be it — just change the home. Rent somebody else’s for a week or a month. Holiday-home rentals are hugely popular across Europe, for excellent reason. This is the best way to take a ‘slow holiday’, not be hemmed in by life-in-a-hotel, to experience a place like the locals do. There’s now a wide selection of homes on rent across Europe — everything from a castle in Scotland to a villa in Tuscany to a barn in Provence to a studio apartment in Paris.
Typically, the cottages/villas/apartments are self-catered — however luxurious the property, you won’t have maids and cooks scurrying about for you. But to choose this type of holiday is, as we’ve pointed out, to live like the locals — some of the housework will follow you from your own home. That said, the homes are usually fully equipped — bed linen, towels, cooking range, washing machine, etc. And, hey, it’s fun to play house elsewhere, especially if it’s a rustic cottage in Provence, with three bedrooms, a lovely garden and a pool, and you don’t have to pay the house tax or fix the plumbing or get new curtain rods…
Costs vary tremendously — depending on the property and the location, you could pay anything from 500 euro a week to 5,000 euro. City apartments are usually more expensive than country cottages; and a larger house may not be so expensive if you split the cost with friends. Book at www.slowtrav.com (especially for Italy), www.frenchaffair.com (France), www.ad.novasol.com (northern Europe) or www.vacapedia.com (all over Europe).