Fast facts
State: Goa
Distance: 590 km S of Mumbai When to go any time of the year but the best season of course is winter. Though this is also the time when Goa is at its most expensive
Tourist Office: Goa Tourism Development Corp Ltd, 2nd Floor, Paryatan Bhawan Patto, Panjim, Goa
Tel: 0832-2438866, 243800-03
Email: reservations@goa-tourism.com
website: www.goa-tourism.com
STD code: 0832
Getting there
Air: Nearest airport is Dabolim Airport
Rail: Nearest railhead is Thivim Station (19 km/1/2 hr)
Road Route from Mumbai: State road to Kalamboli; NH4 to Panvel; NH17 to Mapusa via Pen, Nagothane, Kolad, Mangaon, Mahad, Chiplun, Nandgaon and Sawantwadi; state road to Anjuna. If coming from Panjim, take NH17 across the Mandovi river to Mapusa, then turn left at Khorlim to Anjuna via Assagao
You cannot accurately describe Anjuna Beach. Like some of the best things in life, it has to be experienced to be believed – preferably on a night when the moon is full and the sea silvery, and a party is in full swing. This beach is the undisputed capital of Goa’s rave scene, a beach where anything goes, where people of all kinds congregate. From the eccentric millionaire, honeymooners, corporate professionals, college students, to the genuine beach bums, everyone heads to Anjuna.
A sprawl of restaurants can be found on one side of the beach, stretching all the way to the famous flea market at the extreme south end of the beach. The restaurants offer everything, a bewildering, if eclectic, mix of global cuisines. The flea market is on Wednesdays but every other day of the week too sees a constant whirl of businesses, with shops and vendors hawking everything from clothes to trinkets from all over India.
In spite of all this, Anjuna manages to flaunt some quintessential Goan characteristics. It has a laid-back, sussegad, relaxed kind of feel, as if to confirm that it is indeed a Goan beach. Anjuna’s beauty, and the lovely palette of colours that nature has painted her with, suggests a blissful quality that one associates with the state. A low red laterite cliff borders the beach. To its right are tall green coconut trees, framing the sea and the sky. Further down, jagged laterite boulders alternate with powdery white sand, and azure water swirls and bubbles between the rocks.
Things to see and do
Shop at the flea market, dance to trance music at a bar on the beach or watch the sea’s changing colors at Anjuna.
Flea Market
Anjuna’s flea market began in the 1970s as a place where hippies hawked their stuff when they were either broke or leaving for home. Banned for several years after the local church ran a campaign against it (they said it was a front for drug dealing), the flea market was revived by the Anjuna Panchayat as the Anjuna Weekly Market years ago, and is now held on Wednesdays over several acres of coconut plantations at the southern edge of the beach.
Most of the vendors are Kashmiris, Tibetans and Lamani women peddling all kinds of trinkets and clothes from across India. Food stalls sell all kinds of goodies, from yak cheese to hummus. The market starts at about noon and people begin to leave after sunset. A nice way of getting to and from the market is by boat. Boats come from as far away as Palolem, but there are regular services from Baga and Arambol. Always demand a life jacket. If the boat is too crowded, get off.
A Walk to Baga
From the flea market ground, a path winds its way along the hillside and emerges near the Retreat House in Baga. Great views and a pleasant time are guaranteed, but don’t get caught out after dark, even if you have a torch.
Watersports
With all those rocks in the sea, water sports in Anjuna are limited to its southern end. What Anjuna does offer on calm days is some snorkelling around the rocks in the sea. You can spot mullet, parrotfish and groupers.
Nightlife
Primrose Café, between Anjuna and Vagator, is a good place to be when there’s no party around. Enjoy on Badem Hill also keeps things rocking late into the night.
Where to stay
Anjuna has several accommodation options, though few are located right on the beach. The Tamarind (Tel: 0832-2274319; Tariff: INR 3,000-9,000; www.thetamarind.com) is 21/2 km away from the beach, but is among the best options, with a swimming pool. Laguna Anjuna (Tel: 2274131; Tariff: INR 2,800-10,000; hwww.lagunaanjuna.com), set away from the beach, has 25 individual cottages. Close to the main beach, on Beach Road, Villa Anjuna (Tel: 2273443, Cell: 09822480050; Tariff: INR 1,500-3,500; villaanjuna.com) has spacious rooms and helpful staff. There is a restaurant, coffee shop, spa as well as a swimming pool onsite.
Hotel Bougainvillea (Tel: 2273270-71; Tariff: INR 2,450-4,250; www.granpasinn.com), formerly called Granpa’s Inn, though nowhere near the beach, still has a truly outstanding setting. An old mansion, it is set on a wooded estate. Yogamagic (Tel: 6523796, Cell: 09370565717; Tariff: INR 10,000-15,000 per person; www.yogamagic.net) is an eco-retreat.
Where to eat
Anjuna has several restaurants and the beachfront itself is an endless chain of shacks. Shore Bar on the beach is an excellent choice to watch the sunset and enjoy a glass of beer late into the night. Sea Breeze Café has good food at moderate prices. Martha’s Breakfast Home has fabulous pancakes and coffee. The German Bakery is justly famous for its pastry and the eclectic menu. Tin Tin Tibet serves momos, thukpa and much more. Nic and Nat’s, on the beach, has excellent steaks. They are closed during monsoon. Curlies in South Anjuna has good food and music.