Fast facts
State: Maharashtra
Distance: 277 km S of Mumbai
When to go: April to June (because of the summer holidays)
Tourist Office: MTDC Collector’s Office, Jaystambh, Ratnagiri
Tel: 02352-221508
STD code: 02358
Getting there
Rail: Nearest railhead: Khed Railway Station
Road: Route from Mumbai – The drive is straight down NH17 via Kolad, Mahad and Poladpur. At Bharne Naka, take a right towards Khed town and onwards to Dapoli. Harnai is just 17 km further down after Dapoli.
Their proximity to each other has earned them the tag of ‘twin beaches’ but there’s little that Harnai and Murud have in common. While Harnai is chaotic and crowded, Murud is just the opposite. There’s solitude here, and the quiet shore is the very antithesis of Harnai, where the urgency of fish auctions draw throngs of people each day. Indeed, even on days when the overcast sky is the colour of a clamshell, Harnai’s fisherfolk are out in the sea, trawling its waters for fish, and later sell their catch on the shore. The buyers also turn up in full force, in autos, cycles, snazzy cars or on foot. The colorful cacophony at Harnai leaves you unprepared for the serene beauty of Murud Beach. The sky at sunset forms the perfect backdrop for a walk along a winding road that cuts through the beach. Stay at the beach till the moon slowly climbs up and casts its silvery reflection on the waters.
Things to see and do
There’s very little by way of activity at the beaches here. The Harnai Beach, primarily a fishing dock, isn’t a good place for swimming. Murud Beach is relatively safer, and offers enough privacy to opt for beachwear. Nevertheless, avoid venturing too far out as it’s fairly isolated. Therefore, it’s best to explore Anjarle in the morning, enjoy a swim at Murud, and then head to Harnai for a fish auction in the evening. To experience a lovely sunset, you can also drive out to Karde.
Harnai
There are hills on one side of the beach, a mosque in the backdrop and Harnai Bunder on the adjacent side. In the evenings one can see boats anchored near the bunder, many colourful flags fluttering atop them. The fish auctions are, held daily between 5.00 and 7.00pm, are undoubtedly the main attraction for people here. On weekends, the beach comes alive with hawkers.
Harnai Bunder, or Suvarnadurg Fort as it is also referred to, is Harnai’s forbidden territory. Surrounded by the sea on three sides, the fort is apparently home to wild animals, and locals try to keep visitors from exploring inside. Considering the intensity with which they dissuade you, you are better off staying out. About a kilometre from Harnai, on a hill, are the Durgadevi Temple and the Siddhi Vinayak Ganapati Temple, revered by locals.
Murud (4 km)
The palm-fringed beach of Murud is just what the doctor ordered. The clear, calm waters of the sea meet the black sands dotted with crab holes on a long stretch of beach. You’ll have to walk a lot during low tide to reach the waves, but then it’s worth it; the sea at Murud is ideal for swimming. A few operators conduct adventure activities such as jet-ski rides, banana rides and, parasailing here.
Anjarle (15 km)
As you move about 4 km along the coast from Harnai, passing Paj Pandari Beach en route, you will come across a small jetty. For a minimal fare, you can cross the Jog Creek and reach Anjarle on a precariously balanced boat. The creek’s narrow stream of water is murky, so don’t attempt to swim across. On a weekday you might have to shell out the fare for five more people to cross over. If returning late, inform the boatman in advance, or you will have to spend the night in Anjarle. A bridge on the far right can be used if going by road, but that means travelling an additional 10 km. The black sands of Anjarle Beach are mixed with gravel and dotted with shells.
Where to stay
On Murud Beach
Lotus Beach Resort (Tel: 02358-234582, 234828; Tariff: INR 4,000-6000; www.lotusresortmurud.com), located on Murud Beach is a joint venture with MTDC, and a great option. There are cottages, rooms and bamboo tents. Silver Sand Beach Resort (Tel: 234501, Cell: 09226404740; Tariff: INR 2,100-5,600; www.beachresortsilversand.com) at Karve Pakhadi in Murud has colourful cottages, some beach facing. Hammocks complete the relaxing ambience. Dreamland Inn (Tel: 234730, 234871; Tariff: INR 1,800-3,000; www.dreamlandinn.com), near Durga Temple, is also one of the better options here. Swapnadeep Beach Resort (Cell: 09223289152/55; Tariff: INR 1,450-4,000; www.swapnadeepbeachresort.com) is another popular choice with bungalows, cottages and dorms.
Besides these, the following establishments offer a budget stay: Surabhi Beach Resort (Tel: 234556; Tariff: INR 850-1,000; www.index.surabhibeachresort.com), Abhiruchi (Cell: 09271753147; Tariff: INR 1,200-1,500; www.index.abhiruchibeachresort.com) on Murud Beach, and Saniya Sea Resort (Cell: 09270061125; Tariff: INR 1,000-2,200; www.saniyasearesort.com) in Khalchi Pakhadi.
On Karde Beach
Sea Face Beach Resort (Cell: 07798720941; Tariff: INR 1,200-2,000;www.seafaceresort.in) is the best option in the area, situated across the road from the sea. Whistling Palms Beach Resort (Tel: 234659, Cell: 09272451972; Tariff: INR 2,200-8,600; www.thepalms.co.in) is a luxurious property right on the beach. Surali Sagar (Cell: 09224295773, 09820054082; Tariff: INR 1,800-3,500; www.surali.com) on the beach has both rooms and cottages. They arrange boating and paragliding. Hotel Kinara (Tel: 234633; Tariff: INR 1,500-2,500; www.hotelkinara.com), has sea-facing cottages. It is basic but well kept. Sagar Hill Beach Resort (Mumbai Tel: 022-24214102, Cell: 09323899189; Tariff: INR 750-2,200; www.sagarhillresort.com) is another beachside property located where Karde Beach begins, but is not recommended. Hotel Sagar Sawali (Tel: 234947; Tariff: INR 1,700-3,000;sagarsawali.com) is right on the beach. Savour lip-smacking Konkani at its restaurant.
Where to eat
Although there are plenty of resorts in the vicinity, it’s necessary to place your order in advance. There are a few places that do take walk-in orders. Lotus Resort’s Wadi Restaurant serves Indian, Chinese, Konkani, South Indian and Punjabi meals. prawn curry, which has a typical Konkani flavour. Sagar Dhara Restaurant on Murud Beach, behind the Durgadevi Temple, is the only eating joint open till midnight, serving vegetarian and non-vegetarian thalis. Their pomfret thali is popular. The seating arrangement is in a large verandah with a mango tree in the middle. Hotel Laxmi in Harnai offers seafood and local dishes. Annapurna, a small restaurant on Murud Beach, also serves decent Malvani and Konkani food.