Fast facts
State Rajasthan
Distance: 273 km south of Delhi
When to go: October to March is the best time, but the monsoon months fill the lake and bring lush green foliage
Tourist Office: RTDC Tourist Reception Centre Bikaner House, Pandara Road, New Delhi
Tel: 011-23389525
Web: rajasthantourism.gov.in, rtdc.in
STD code: 01420
Getting there
Rail: Nearest railhead: Bandikui Junction (36 km/45 mins)
Road: Driving down from Delhi is the best option. It’s good going till Sikandra. Thereafter, it’s a narrow tarmac with a few rough patches in the monsoons. The route from Sikandra goes past Gijgarh, Kadikoti and the Madhosagar Bandh. After the bandh, less than a kilometre from Kalakho, is a dirt path through mustard fields.
Nestled at the base of a spur of the Aravalli Hills is the tiny village of Ghumna, close to a larger village of the Meena tribe, called Kalakho. Its green and serene surrounds are perfect for rest and recuperation. Across golden fields, on the banks of a monsoon lake is a perfect little retreat blending the ambience of a village with luxury.
A kilometre before Dera Lakeview Retreat, easy driving on a tarmac road ends and thereby begins the adventure – a zigzag drive through mustard fields. Not only is it a great hideaway, but, for those with even the mildest streak of interest in rural India, also a great place to explore.
Things to see and do
There is a lot to discover if you are anthropologically or historically inclined. And for those not interested in a discover-your-world experience, there are a range of other activities on offer, from safaris to camel cart rides. Note that all distances are from Kalakho.
Explore Kalakho
Kalakho is set in fields against the back-drop of the hills. This woodsy part of the Aravallis is a haven for bird-watchers. Let your feathered guides lead you up the hills, to old forts and the panoramic views from the pinnacles. Those with a love for nature should head out with a picnic.
Monsoon oasis notwithstanding, Kalakho wouldn’t be Rajasthan without the ships of the desert on standby to ferry you to the sights. If riding atop one seems too up close, try the camel cart ‘safari’ at Kalakho, for experience’s sake. The ride includes a visit to a local village home.
Chand Baoli
Drive straight past the busy Sikandra crossroads and on to the village of Gular, then take a right to Abhaneri. The 8th-century baoli (stepwell) here is enormous. Built by Raja Chand, a Nikumbha Rajput of the Chamana dynasty, it is close to 65 ft deep. There are 3,500 narrow and steep psyche-delic steps, puncuated by 13 landings.
Harshata Mata Temple
Just across from the well is the Harshata Mata shrine, dedicated to Parvati. Built in the 7th-century Mahameru style, it bears a surprisingly strong resemblance to the intricate carvings and ornate arcades seen at the world-famous temples of Khajuraho.
Where to stay and eat
At Dera Village Retreat (Faridabad Tel: 0129-4098000; Tariff: INR 12,000, with meals; www.deravillageretreat.com), you can stay in one of the 18 AC deras, each with private facilities. There is hot as well as cold water in the huts, an AC restaurant which serves excellent food, a host of indoor games, local musicians to serenade guests, drives, rides and treks and many more activities to choose from. In Dausa Tehsil, Umaid Lake Palace (Tel: 01427-203166, Cell: 09799936888; Tariff: INR 5,000-9,500; www.umaidlakepalace.com), located in another village also called Kalakho (20 km), is not a heritage place but lies near a lake and offers safaris and activities. Food options are limited in Kalakho. It is a good idea to eat at the place of your lodging.