Fast facts
State: Himachal Pradesh
Distance: 263 km N of Delhi
When to go: All year round
Tourist Office: HPTDC, Chandralok Building, 36, Janpath, New Delhi
Tel: 011-23325320/ 4764 STD code: 01702
Getting there
Rail: nearest railhead Ambala (71 km/ 2 hrs)
Road: Route from Delhi NH1 to Ambala via Karnal; NH72 to Nahan via Narayangarh and Kala Amb
A lovely little town, Nahan has rolling hills alive with verdure and birdsong, fragments of the legendary kingdom of Sirmour and the gentle peal of temple bells. Yet, its tranquil surface hides a colourful past, so wander down its cobblestoned streets and discover legends of heroism, romance and intrigue.
Folklore has it that the 10th-century Raja of Sirmour dared his mistress, a natni (acrobat), to cross the river on a tightrope. The natni accepted the challenge for half his kingdom and succeeded. Angry at the prospect of losing, the treacherous raja told his men to cut the rope as she tried to return. Falling to her death, the natni cursed him and his land, and sure enough, the capital, Rajbans perished in a flood. The capital of the Bhattis of Sirmour then shifted, in turn, to Kalsi, Hatkoti, Neri, Ritesh, Devthal and, finally, Nahan. Of these, only Nahan holds the distinction of having lasted as the capital over several centuries. Perhaps its luxurious palaces, stately homes and pretty gardens had something to do with it.
Things to see and do
Nahan, with its delightful Rajasthani and Colonial architecture, seems to be in a hurry to join other, more sought-after hill towns; but for all that, it still has the sleepy, small town air. Flower-framed bungalows, elegant havelis, wooded hills, a storied lake, ancient shrines, an old fort and age-old skills (such as gun-smithing) still at work in the cobbled market-place combine to make Nahan a delightful escape.
Nahan is a great base for forays to Hindu, Sikh and Buddhist shrines in Trilokpur, Renukaji, Paonta Sahib, Katesan and Kalsi. There’s trekking, fishing and bird watching from Nahan to the Asan Barrage, all within easy driving distance.
Walkabout
Eschew the clamour of town to pace the old promenades – the Villa Round, the Hospital Walk and the Military Round. You can already see the signs of over-development; but as you retreat further from the main town, untrammeled verdure greets your eyes.
Chill out in the chaugan (flatland), the green lung of Nahan, on one of your evenings here. Standing cheek-by-jowl is Ranzor Palace, whose old stable is now a cinema hall. In the heart of town is Rani Tal, built in 1898, with its gardens and a secret passage for the ladies of the royal family to go discreetly for a bath. In the evenings, the gardens are filled with locals enjoying boating and picnics.
Jamu Peak and Choordhar Peak are popular treks. The tough but rewarding slopes promise great views.
Nature Watch
Birdwatchers have a treat in store at the Simbalwara Wildlife Sanctuary, 12 km off NH72 (the Paonta-Nahan Road). At Jataun, 5 km from Renuka, there’s angling off the Giri Hydel Project Dam.
Temple Tour
The former Sirmour ruler Raja Mahi Prakash constructed the ancient Jagannath Temple to house an idol he salvaged from Rajbans in 1671. It is the focal point of an annual pilgrimage, when the reigning deity and 52 other icons from the city temples are taken out in procession.
Jaitak Fort
About 15 km from Nahan, on a spur above the Nahan-Dadhau Road, is this historic fort at Jaitak village. It was built by the Sirmour kings and reconstructed by Gurkha leader Ranzor Thapa, who fought a crucial battle with the British here in 1810. There’s a war memorial in Nahan at Pucca Tank to the European soldiers who died fighting this war.
Where to stay and eat
The best accommodation option in Nahan is the Grand View Resort (Tel: 01702-258814, Cell: 09418148267; Tariff: INR 3,000-6,000; www.visitgrandviewresort.com) at Jamta Heights, 14 km away. It has well-appointed rooms with stunning views, a pool and a spa and arranges trekking. The Jaitak Restaurant here is quite popular.
About 13 km from Nahan, on the Nahan-Renuka Road, is The Sirmour Retreat (Cell: 09313002006; Tariff: INR 4,256-5,723, with two meals; www.thesirmourretreat.com), with beautiful cottages and tents. It offers adventure activities. Hotel City Heart (Tel: 225124; Tariff: INR 800-3,200; cityhearthotel.com) is a decent hotel in the heart of Nahan.
There are unfortunately not too many exciting eating opportunities in Nahan, though the hotels do just fine.