The northern part of West Bengal is renowned for its high-quality teas, be it from the tea estates carpeting Darjeeling’s hills or from the plantations in the Dooars, the flood plains and the foothills of the Eastern Himalaya. These tea plantations offer some of the most picturesque vistas, tinged with a Colonial flavour that has an alluring charm of its own. Crowned by the Himalayas and criss-crossed by rivers, this beautiful part of the state also provides access to Sikkim, best known for its unparalleled views of the Khangchendzonga (also known as Kanchenjunga) which at 8,586 m is the third-highest peak in the world. The roads leading to Sikkim’s jewels—Gangtok, Pelling and Yuksom—are not in the best condition, but the feeling of exhilaration one experiences these destinations makes the bumpy ride worth the while.
Yuksom-Gangtok
Distance: 125 km
Time: 5 hours
Stay the night at Yuksom, then head back to Legship, this time via Laso instead of Pelling. Cross the Rangeet river near Legship, and just before the town, turn onto the Legship-Rabangla Road, which will take you east to the town of Rabangla. Navigate the steep twists and turns of the road very carefully. This road is prone to landslides, so it might be a good idea to enquire about road conditions in Legship. From Rabangla, take the Dorjee-Kazi Marg. Once past Namphok, you will see the Teesta river running parallel to the road almost all the way to Singtam, after which the road (NH31A) runs along the banks of Rani Khola, until you cross the river to reach Ranipool. Stop here for a quick meal and then continue for 11 km to reach Gangtok. Watch out for the traffic on the outskirts of the city.
Capital City
The ethnic diversity of Sikkim is attested by the mix of Tibetans, Lepchas, Bhutias and Nepalis in its population. During the Colonial era, many Nepalis were brought in to work on the expanding plantations of this area. As late as 1975, Sikkim was still a kingdom ruled by the Chogyal dynasty (originally of Tibetan ethnicity), in power since the 17th century. On 16 May 1975, monarchy was abolished in Sikkim and the state was incorporated into the Indian union.
Gangtok, on a fresh April or October morning, is bright and cheery. On a clear day, you can take in magnificent views of the mountain peak of Khangchendzonga from the hotel windows. The best way to begin a morning in town is to head to the market, sit on the terrace of a restaurant and watch the bustle while sipping coffee. You will see impeccably dressed women going off to work, monks hurrying down to the bazaar, young men ambling along and tourists digging into platefuls of steaming hot momos. Up on a hill, at Enchey Monastery, young monks rush to their classes on a path crisscrossed with colourful prayer flags.
While in Gangtok, be sure to make the beautiful Tsomgo Lake part of your itinerary. You can easily drive here from the city. The serene lake is over a kilometre long and around 15 m deep. The route leading to Tsomgo is wonderful, where the mountains begin to grow barren and, beyond a point, everything is covered in snow. Stop at the tiny settlement of Kyongnosla for tea, a picture-postcard alpine village beside the Rongchu stream. There are plenty of shops on one side of the road offering food, souvenirs, socks and gumboots. You will spot yaks, wearing knitted decorations on their horns. It’s easy to get away from the shops and tourists if you walk a short way off. If you decide to drive further up to Nathu La, this is where you’ll thaw out, gobbling steaming Maggi and drinking black tea. You can also hire the boots here that you’ll need to wear in Nathu La.
Coming up from Tsomgo Lake, the road to Nathu La can have blinding snow on both sides and, in some months, such thick fog that headlights are needed to make your way. Nathu La is important for several reasons: it is a Himalayan pass at 4,392 m, a trading post on the Indo-China border, and a branch of the historic Silk Route between India and China.
Silk Route is the generic name given to different trade routes that emerged out of China and ran through Central Asia, parts of India and Arabia, to the Mediterranean, as far back as the 3rd century CE. These grand routes often branched off into a shorter journey. One such route connected Lhasa to Bengal via Nathu La. Trade, mainly in tea, Chinese silk, Indian jewellery and horses, thrived here. It wasn’t just traders, but also pilgrims, soldiers, economic migrants, nomadic people, who kept these roads, cultures and cultural exchanges alive. While most traditional trade routes declined with long-distance sea trade, they didn’t completely die out. In the early 20th century, 80 per cent of the trade between India and China took place across Nathu La, finally coming to a halt with the hostilities between China and India in 1962. In 2006, this connection reopened after 44 years.
At Nathu La, steps lead up to the highest point where the air is rarefied and you may find it tough to breathe. Up at the top, there’s the border post guarded by soldiers. At 4,310 m, you can see a fence, and on the other side is Tibet/China, with Chinese soldiers keeping watch. Tourists are permitted to speak, shake hands and click pictures with Indian (and sometimes Chinese) soldiers for three minutes. Note that a special permit is required to travel to Nathu La. Any government-recognised travel agent in Gangtok (try Sikkim Tours & Travels; Tel: 03592-202188, Cell: 08372034758) or your hotel in Gangtok can arrange for the permit. Keep two photographs and an original photo I-card handy for the permit to be issued.
About 6 km down from Nathu La, Sherathang village is a trading hub with offices handling customs and security as well as a post office, and a telecom centre. Given the snow, trading can only take place between 1st June and 30th September. Listed commodities include textiles, blankets and tea as well as horses, sheep, yak hair, wool and raw silk.
Things to See & Do
With the construction of the Enchey Monastery in 1840, Gangtok became a major stopover in the trade route between British India and Tibet during the late 19th century. In 1894, the Chogyals shifted their capital from Tumlong to Gangtok.
A leisurely walk around town is perhaps the best way to explore its attractions and soak in the tranquil atmosphere. There are several viewpoints at a short distance from the town that offer magnificent views of the Khangchendzonga and other Himalayan peaks in all their glory. These include Ganesh Tok (7 km), Hanuman Tok (11 km) and Tashi View Point (8 km).
Just above the main town, and a few minutes’ walk up from the bazaar is the Ridge, a delightful stretch of road lined with trees. This is where locals as well as tourists come for a stroll. On one end of the Ridge is the chief minister’s official residence and the White Hall, while on the other is the beautifully designed gate leading into the Chogyal Palace (closed to public). The White Hall was built in 1932 and named after Claude White, who was the first Political Officer of the state. Nearby lies the Flower Exhibition Centre with orchids on display.
The Enchey Monastery is a 15-minute walk north of the Ridge. Enchey literally means the ‘high strong place’, and it lives up to its name, perched on the upper slopes of the town. Locals usually come to the monastery to pray before going to work. Spend a morning here listening to the soothing chants of the monks during prayers.
Established in 1958, the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology holds one of the largest collections of Tibetan works in the world outside Tibet. The museum houses a rare collection of ancient manuscripts, statues, ritual objects and thangkas. The exhibition is dominated by a majestic silver image of Manjushri, the Bodhisattva of knowledge, brought from Tibet.
Locally known as The Gangtok Zoo, the Himalayan Zoological Park is situated near the Ganesh Tok Viewpoint. This open-range zoo sprawls over an area of 205 hectares in mountainous terrain. A 2.5 km long road winds through the parkland, which you can either drive or walk. The animals are kept in conditions relatively close to their natural habitat. The enclosures are mostly large spaces and often not covered on the top. The main attractions here include snow leopards, Tibetan wolves, red pandas, Himalayan palm civets, and several kinds of colourful Himalayan pheasants.
About an hour’s drive from Gangtok will take you to the Rumtek Monastery. There are actually two Rumtek monasteries, separated by a kilometer-and- a-half. The first one was built in 1740 and can still be seen, but is hardly visited by tourists. The newer one, which is far more imposing was built in 1960, largely from the personal resources of the Gyalwa Karmapa and is the seat of the Kargyu-pa (Black Hat) order of Tibetan Buddhism. The huge courtyard of this monastery is flanked by the monks’ quarters as well as the intriguing VIP gallery and the butter lamp shed on the first floor. One of the attractions here is the print house that still prints prayer flags with printing blocks. You could get a colourful flag printed here.
Gangtok-Kalimpong
Distance: 75 km
Time: 3 hours
After spending two blissful days in Gangtok, head to Kalimpong. Follow the NH31A back to Singtam and then further on to Rangpo and all the way down to the point where the road forks. Here, a sign will direct you towards Kalimpong. From here, the town is only 14 km away. This beautiful stretch of road first runs along the Rani Khola river and then the Teesta. Irrespective of whether you’re driving several feet above the river or only metres away, the views are astonishingly beautiful.
A Town of Schools
Kalimpong is a small Himalayan town, rich in cultural and religious heritage. The town was once an important link along the trade routes linking Tibet with India through Sikkim. The area was part of the domain of the Raja of Sikkim, until the Bhutan kings took over in the early 18th century. In 1865, after the Anglo-Bhutan War, Kalimpong was annexed to Darjeeling. As the tea estates grew in Darjeeling, a large number of labourers spilled over into neighbouring Kalimpong. The late 19th century saw the arrival of Scottish missionaries to the area, which led to the construction of numerous schools.
Today, Kalimpong is a peaceful hill resort and a haven for retired people. Its population is a mix of Nepalese, Tibetan, Bhutanese and Lepcha communities. The town is renowned for its educational institutions, many of which were founded during the British era.
Things to See & Do
With its Colonial bungalows and quaint hotels, Kalimpong still evokes memories of the British era. Built by British wool traders, most of these buildings are located on Rinkingpong and Hill Top roads. Of particular note are Morgan House, Crockety, Surya Sadan, Galingka, Tashiding and Ringking Farm. Both Morgan House and Tashiding are now state-run tourist lodges.
Around 2 km from the main town lies St Theresa Church, built by local craftsmen to resemble a gompa. The walls of the church are decorated with wood carvings depicting biblical scenes. However, the sculpted figures curiously resemble Buddhist monks.
Drive to the Deolo Hill viewing point to take in views of Kalimpong town, the surrounding villages as well as Teesta river and its valleys. En route to the viewpoint, you will come across many attractions.
First up is the statue of the Buddha, seated on a lotus set amid rocks and lush green trees. Right behind the statue is a small gompa. After taking a look at the statue, stop at Sherpa Taar, or Sherpa View Point. It offers a stunning view of the hills rolling up to meet the mountains. You can see the Teesta river drawing the natural boundary between West Bengal and Sikkim from here. The views are superb from the viewing gallery as well as the nearby Durga Mandir. A short distance from Durga Mandir lies Hanuman Park, with a 10-m high statue of Hanuman. Finally, Deolo Hill, at 1,650 m, is the highest point in Kalimpong that offers some of the best views of the entire region.
On the way to Deolo Hill is Dr Graham’s Homes, an educational institute spread over an area of 202 hectares. It was set up in 1900 by Reverend Dr JA Graham, a Scottish missionary, for orphaned and abandoned Anglo-Indian children. Today, the institute functions as a public school. The campus is almost like a little town in itself, with its own chapel, hospital, bakery, dairy and even poultry. Tourists can drive into the campus and take a look around the grounds.
On the southern edge of the town is Durpin Dara Hill, another excellent vantage point from where you can take in spectacular vistas of the Teesta and Rangeet rivers in the valley below. On a clear day, you can see the Khangchendzonga in all its splendour.
Laid by the Indian Army, the nine-hole Lion’s Golf Course offers a grand view of the mountains. It is the highest golf course in West Bengal, and is spread over an undulating terrain, hence making for a challenging course. There is an Army post here, from where you need to seek permission to play. Carry your golf kit along, as there’s none available for hire here.
Established in 1692, the Thongsha Gompa (Timings: 6.00 am-6.00 pm), or the Bhutanese Monastery, is the oldest monastery in Kalimpong. The original structure was destroyed in the inter-clan wars before the British arrived.
Built on the Durpin Dara Hill, Zong Dog Palri Fo-Brang Gompa (Timings: 6.00 am-6.00 pm) was consecrated by the Dalai Lama in 1976. It contains the Kagyur in 108 volumes, brought by the Dalai Lama when he fled Tibet. The prayer room is adorned with wall paintings.
A 40-minute uphill walk from town leads to the Tharpa Choeling Gompa. Founded in 1992, it belongs to the Dalai Lama’s Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect of Tibetan Buddhism.
Flower nurseries are a huge attraction in Kalimpong. Floriculture enthusiasts and businesses from all over India source plants from here. Kalimpong is famous for gladioli, orchids, cacti, amaryllis, anthuriums, roses and many more species of flowering plants. Pine View Nursery, about 2 km from Kalimpong town on Atisha Road, has the largest collection of exotic cacti in Asia. Around 3 km from Kalimpong on Teesta Bazaar Road, Universal Nursery (Tel: 03552-256566) stocks cacti, orchids, amaryllis and succulent flowers. Standard Nursery, at Chibo Basti, is well-known for its roses, while Murgi Hatta is popular for its brilliant gladioli. Run by the Forest Department the Nature Interpretation Centre houses displays focusing on Kalimpong’s flora and fauna.
Dharmodaya Vihar, on the Jangalri- Sapkota Road, is a residence for Buddhist monks, and has an excellent library on Buddhism. Chitray, 14 km downhill from Kalimpong, is the starting point for rafting on the Teesta. The Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council and a few private entrepreneurs organise exciting 3-hour long rafting trips.
Kalimpong-Cooch Behar
Distance: 210 Km
Time: 6-7 hours
Leave Kalimpong at the crack of dawn to proceed towards Cooch Behar. This stretch of the drive is the longest and leaving early in the morning will ensure that you get to see as much of the Dooars as possible before the sun sets. Remember that in the eastern part of the country the sun sets by 5.30 pm in summer and as early as 4.30 pm in winter. For the sake of convenience, you can break the drive into four parts: Kalimpong-Lava, Lava-Chalsa, Chalsa-Jaldapara and Jaldapara-Cooch Behar.
Kalimpong-Lava
From Kalimpong, follow directions 30 km east to the hamlet of Lava. En route to Lava is the town of Algarah, where you can halt to ask locals for directions to Lava. In Bhutanese, Lava translates as ‘Heavenly Abode of the Gods’. Cradled by mountains, this gorgeous little town serves as the stepping point into the beautiful Neora Valley National Park, which rises to the elevation of these hills from the Dooars below.
While in Lava, visit the Kagyu Thekchen Ling Monastery, which defines the town’s skyline. A training centre in Tibetan Buddhist theology for young monks, this bright red building looms large over the town, and offers a lovely view of the forests. Lava makes a perfect base for trekking. The popular Changgey Falls are a 2-hour drive from town, but the trekking is just one kilometre long. This waterfall is best visited from September to October, just after the rains. About 3 km from Lava lies Tiffindara Viewpoint, at a height of 2,347 m, which offers the best views of Khangchendzonga. You can also see parts of Sikkim, the Nathu La area and the Jelep La Pass from here.
Lava-Chalsa
From Lava, continue down the same road past Papadkheti, a tiny village surrounded by terraced farm lands, towards Gorubathan. This is where the hill roads give way to the plains and into the Dooars’ tea plantation area. Just after you cross Meenglass Tea Estate’s factory on the right, turn right towards Gurjangjhora and Tunbari tea estates. This road will take you to the outskirts of Mal Bazaar, where you will turn left onto the NH31C. From here, you begin your drive through the river-crossed terrain of the Dooars. Cross the Mal Nadi and head down the road until you reach the town of Chalsa. At the crossroads, turn left and then go uphill on a bougainvillea-lined road to climb onto Chalsa Plateau, covered with acres upon acres of tea bushes. As soon as you complete the climb, you will see a signboard for ‘Sinclair’s Retreat, Chalsa’ on your left. Turn into the gates to enjoy a meal in the Banyan Tree restaurant. After ordering your meal, step out onto the garden behind the restaurant to catch beautiful views of the road you just climbed up and the plains of the Dooars.
Chalsa-Jaldapara
After eating lunch at the restaurant, head back down to Chalsa town and then continue on the NH31C. A couple of kilometres down the way, you’ll cross the Murti river and enter the Chapramari Wildlife Sanctuary. Drive carefully on this road, keeping your eyes peeled for the herds of elephants or lone tuskers that tend to cross this road through the night and day. If you are lucky, you might just sight an albino peacock or a fox or two. The bridge over the Jaldhaka river heralds the end of the drive through the forest and your entrance into Nagrakata sub-district. Follow the road across the Kurti river and then past Grassmore Tea Estate. On the way watch out for a sign that says ‘Bamandungatundu Tea Estate’ after the Nagrakata dhabas. The road here leads to a garden that gets surrounded by the rivers’ waters in the monsoon months making it an island. Continue past the sign and Grassmore Tea Estate and soon you’ll cross the Diana river and enter the Central Dooars.
Drive on the beautiful road past Redbank and Diana tea estates and then Goodricks’ Lakhipara and Gandrapara to reach the town of Banarhat. Here, buses and jeeps will cause you to slow down for a short while, but soon you’ll be on your way again, driving past the exceptionally maintained Moraghat Tea Garden on your right. The road leading to the left at the crossroads ahead leads to the Bhutanese town of Samtse, and the one to the right runs past Gairkata town to Chengdabanda, a town on the India-Bangladesh border. But, continue down the NH31C to Binaguri town, which is home to one of the largest army cantonments in Asia. Follow the road past St James’ High School and Telepara Tea Estate until you reach a T-point. Here turn left to take the NH31C towards the Birpara town. You will see a lot of truck traffic at Birpara, but it will slow you down only momentarily. Drive past the town and Birpara Tea Estate, past scores of dhabas and tea-covered areas until you reach Madarihat. Here, turn left to reach the Jaldapara National Park.
Established in 1941 primarily for the protection of rhinos, Jaldapara is home to the largest concentration of the onehorned rhino in India after Assam’s Kaziranga National Park. Spread over 100 sq km, the park is home to a variety of other animals and birds, such as leopards, elephants, barking deer, bison, partridges, crested eagles and jungle fowls. The Assistant Wildlife Warden’s office at Madarihat provides information about the park and also arranges permits and bookings for jeep safaris. Entry Indians ₹120; Foreigners ₹160 Timings 9.00am-3.00pm
The best way to explore Jaldapara is by taking an elephant safari. A maximum of four people are allowed on each elephant. The safari from the Tourist Lodge at Madarihat is subject to the availability of elephants. Elephant Safari fee Indians ₹500; Foreigners ₹750 Timings 5.30-6.30am, 6.30-7.30am, closed from mid-June to mid-September.
Jeeps for safaris can be rented from the Madarihat Lodge or any tourist agency in the vicinity. Be sure that a forest guard accompanies the vehicle. Jeep Safari ₹2,000, including vehicle and guide fee Timings 5.00-7.00am & 3.00-5.00pm
Located near the forest office, the Leopard Rehabilitation Centre offers the opportunity to see how abandoned leopard cubs are reared to live in their natural habitat as adults. Birdwatchers will love Jaldapara’s avian variety. The sanctuary is also the last-known habitat of the Bengal florican. A guide is a must for a walk around this area.
Jaldapara-Cooch Behar
From Jaldapara, continue on the NH31C. You can stop at the Amar Vaishno dhaba on the outskirts of Madarihat for a cup of tea, and if hunger strikes, do try the karhi here. The biggest roadblock on the way to Cooch Behar from here is the bridge over the Torsa river. The bridge is damaged to such a point that mini bridges have been built over several of the gaping holes over it, making it a one-lane crossing. Once across the bridge, you will reach the outskirts of Hasimara town, but instead of going to the town, continue down the NH31C. At the fork in the road further down, take the left leg of the fork leaving the NH31C to reach, via Pundibari, the town of Cooch Behar.
Bengali Royalty
A small, peaceful town, Cooch Behar was once a seat of princely grandeur. Its glamour and opulence during the heyday of the rule of the Narayan-Koch kings lasted till India’s independence in 1947. What remains of that legacy is the glorious architecture. The town is peppered with burnt redbrick structures highlighted by pale arches, cornices and Corinthian columns, particularly around Sagar Dighi tank. The landscape of Cooch Behar is marked by at least 22 tanks. The River Torsa, flowing down the Eastern Himalaya, runs along the western side of the town, before taking off towards Bangladesh. Besides the temples dotting the town, the real charm of Cooch Behar lies in its indigenous communities – the Rajbanshi, Toto, Gorkha, Mech, Rabha, Lepcha and the Bhutia – whose distinctive dress and traditions are just as attractive as memories of a once-flourishing royalty.
Things to See & Do
The Cooch Behar Royal Palace was built along classical Italian Renaissance lines. Its construction began during the reign of Maharaja Nripendra Narayan, and was completed in 1887. A part of it is now a museum, housing oil paintings, chandeliers, sepia-tinted photographs of royalty, antiquities and much more unearthed from Gosanimari, where the old capital of the Koch kings was located. Laterite and sandstone sculptures from as far back as the 7th century CE are on display, although few are intact. A separate gallery showcases the lifestyle of Cooch Behar’s indigenous people. Note that the museum is open all days of the week, except Friday.
The most spectacular of the town’s 22 tanks is Sagar Dighi, surrounded by grand buildings. Built mostly between the 1880s and 1920s, these structures now house the offices of the district administration. The tank attracts a number of migratory birds in winter. It is also a popular hangout in the evenings among the locals.
The Madan Mohan temple complex has a dazzling white one-storeyed structure as its centrepiece. The temple’s architecture is a fine blend of Hindu (low, sprawling porch in front), Islamic (scalloped arches and bulbous pillars) and Central Asian (dome with tapered peak) traditions. Another attraction in the area is the Baneshwar Shiva Temple, featuring an impressive roof in the Bengali do-chala (parted on top and slanting on either side) style.
Madhupur Dham, a serene retreat, is dedicated to the Vaishnavite spiritual guru Shankar Dev, who fled his native Assam in the 16th century to avoid persecution by the rulers, and found asylum with Koch king Nara Narayan.
Cooch Behar-Siliguri
Distance: 142 km
Time: 4 hours
Spend a couple of days exploring Cooch Behar and its environs, then head back to Siliguri on the NH31 and the NH31C via Falakata, Dhupguri and Jalpaiguri. There will be very few tea-planted areas along this route, but you will see field after field of rice and potato plantations. After ten days of driving through the hills and tea plantations, the hustle-bustle of Siliguri will seem almost awkward. Remember, the best of the Dooars is yet to be seen on more visits to come.
The Route
Take the NH55 from Siliguri and then Rohini Road to reach Kurseong, after which you will need to take Hill Cart Road to get to Selim Hill Tea Estate. After visiting the tea estate, retrace your route to Kurseong and then take the NH55 to Darjeeling. From here, follow mountain roads, which are in varying degrees of disrepair, around Sikkim, before getting on the NH31A from Gangtok to drive all the way to Kalimpong. Another lot of hill roads from here will take you past Lava and Gorubathan to Malbazar, where you will join the NH31C, which will lead you almost all the way to Cooch Behar. From Cooch Behar, the NH31, and the NH31D will bring you back to Siliguri.
Tips & Tricks
No special permit is required for either travelling or trekking inside Darjeeling. However, keep your travel documents, such as ID cards and driving licenses, ready for they may need to be shown as and when required. In addition to an Indian visa, foreigners need to obtain an Inner Line Permit (ILP) to visit Sikkim.
It’s advisable to stock up on petrol before leaving Siliguri. There are petrol pumps, puncture-repair shops and garages at Sonada (45 minutes from Kurseong) and Ghoom (15 minutes from Darjeeling). Note that a service station can be found only at Darjeeling. There are no dhabas in these hills. At Sonada and Ghoom, however, you will find restaurants, tea stalls and provision stores. There are three roads from Siliguri to Kurseong, of which the route through Pankhabari is now a one-way road, open only to downhill traffic. It’s also very steep with hairpin bends. The road via Rohini is the route taken by most light vehicles. But for some kilometers out of Siliguri, you’ll find several stretches with potholes. The older highway via Tindharia with its British-era railway yards is the Hill Cart Road (NH55), largely used by buses and trucks. There are small bazaars on this route with tyrerepair shops, but there are no petrol pumps on any of the three routes. The road out of Kurseong is full of potholes till Darjeeling.
Except for a few rough stretches and some potholes between Darjeeling and Ghoom, the road till Pelling is mostly in good condition. But if you are travelling during the rains, then you need to be prepared for landslides, sliding stones and roadblocks due to falling debris. Most of the road winds through mountainous terrain, which has its share of hairpin bends. The district roads are narrow, so remember to honk at every bend and always maintain a safe speed.
Selim Hill Tea Estate
Where to Stay & Eat
A heritage planter bungalow built about 155 years ago, Selim Hill Tea Bungalow (Cell: 09830822937, 09836362937; Tariff: ₹5,400 per room per night, including meals) has comfortably furnished rooms. The flower-bedecked gardens have gazebos, swings and hammocks. Meals are cooked using the produce from the organic kitchen garden. The retreat organises visits to the tea factory from April to November.
Darjeeling
Where to Stay
Located atop Observatory Hill, The Windamere (Tel: 0354-2254041; Tariff: ₹12,000-25,000) is a heritage hotel with 39 elegantly decorated rooms and suites. In time-honoured tradition, afternoon tea is served in the drawing room. The full-course dinner is legendary. The120-year-old Elgin (Tel: 2257226-27, Kolkata Tel: 033-40646300, 22269878, 22651033; Tariff: ₹10,230-12,550) is also among Darjeeling’s oldest and finest hotels. The Cedar Inn (Tel: 2254446; Tariff: ₹9,600-18,000), on Jalpahar Road, is a boutique hotel set in tranquil environs.
Formerly known as the Darjeeling Club, the Planter’s Club (Tel: 2254348-49; Tariff: ₹3,000-3,500) is a simple but pleasant hotel. It has a lovely open-air patio and a multicuisine restaurant.
The centrally located Darjeeling Bellevue Hotel (Tel: 2254075, Cell: 09800667148; Tariff: ₹2,000-4,500) has well-furnished rooms with polished wooden floors. Budget options include Hotel Mohit (Tel: 2254818; Tariff: ₹3,300-3,900) and Hotel Seven Seventeen (Tel: 2255099, 2254717, 2252017, Cell: 09153227188, 09733297437; Tariff: ₹2,500-4,000).
Where to Eat
Keventer’s, opposite Planter’s Club, is known for its breakfast spreads, especially its cold cuts. Penang looks slightly rundown, but serves some of the best Tibetan food. For thukpas, momos and superb chilli chutney, try Dekevas. One of the best confectioners in the northeast, Glenary’s tempts with excellent homemade chocolates, èclairs, cakes and breads. Dafey Munal, next to the jeep stand, is a good place for light meals and desserts. Taaja’s at the Planter’s Club serves delicious food, though service is slow. Supersoft Ice-Cream Parlour offers creamy hand-made ice-creams and other tasty snacks. For great food combined with superb ambience, dine at the Planter’s Club and the Windamere Hotel. Be sure to reserve ahead.
Pelling
Where to Stay & Eat
Among the best hotels in Pelling is The Elgin Mount Pandim (Tel: 03595-250756, 250573; Tariff: ₹8,500-9,500, with meals), on Monastery Road, with all modern amenities and excellent views. Another good luxury hotel is the Newa Regency (Cell: 09332080117; Tariff: ₹4,000-6,000), on Pelling-Rimbi Road. Norbu Ghang Resort (Tel: 258272, Cell: 09933004491; Tariff: ₹4,737-5,921) and the newer Chumbi Mountain Retreat (Tel: 258241; Tariff: ₹11,400-24,300), on Naku Chumbong, are also excellent choices.
Hotel Takura (Cell: 09775191743; Tariff: ₹1,800-2,000), in Lower Pelling, is a popular budget option. Rooms are spacious and afford fine mountain views. The hotel has a restaurant too. Just below Phamrong in Upper Pelling is the simple Hotel Garuda (Cell: 09733076484; Tariff: ₹750-2,450), owned by Tshering Wangdi, a knowledgeable host.
Yuksom
Where to Stay & Eat
Set in a valley, Hotel Tashigang (Cell: 09933007720; Tariff: ₹2,000-3,000) is one of the best places in town. The hotel also arranges trekking equipment. Hotel Yak (Cell: 09933020133, 09933019978; Tariff: ₹2,000-2,500) offers clean rooms. The restaurant serves Sikkimese-Bhutia cuisine. Hotel Yangri Gang (Cell: 09434164408; Tariff: ₹800-1,600) is popular with trekkers.
Gangtok
Where to Stay & Eat
Among the old favourites, The Elgin Nor-Khill (Tel: 03592-205637, 200170; Tariff: ₹8,700-9,800) is a beautiful heritage hotel set in a guesthouse of the erstwhile royal family. The centrally located Hotel Tashi-Delek (Tel: 202991; Tariff: ₹3,375-5,750) is close to the tourist office and is lighter on the budget. The restaurant here serves excellent momos. Of the upper-end options, The Royal Plaza (Tel: 280232, 280032; Tariff: ₹13,900-37,000) is a luxury property with a casino. Orchids, the hotel restaurant, offers Indian, Continental and Chinese à la carte fare. Denzong Regency (Tel: 201566-67; Tariff: ₹10,000-14,000) is a heritage option by the WelcomHeritage group. Club Mahindra’s Royal Demazong (Cell: 08016099914; Tariff: ₹6,000-7,500) has good family-oriented facilities.
A steep flight of steps leads to the Hotel Chumbi Residency (Tel: 206618-19; Tariff: ₹5,000-6,000) with elegantly designed rooms, all of which offer good views. The hotel is well located, close to the high Gangtok Ridge. Hotel Sonam Delek (Tel: 202566; Tariff: ₹3,375-5,750) is close to the best parts of Gangtok: the Ridge and the upper slopes.
The Baker’s Café has delicious food and superb atmosphere. The cakes here are especially good. Chumbi Residency’s restaurant Tangerine dishes out tasty Indian and Oriental meals. The erstwhile Blue Sheep Restaurant, now known as Rasoi, is mostly patronised by international tourists. Service is slow, but the food is worth the wait; try the sizzlers here. Dig into scrumptious pizzas at the popular Little Italy. Gorge on succulent momos and other Tibetan dishes at Tibet Hotel. A typical Sikkimese meal can be had at The Elgin Nor-Khill. This includes dishes made from stinging nettles and Alpine fiddlehead fern. Try the famous cherry brandy, a local speciality.
Kalimpong
Where to Stay & Eat
Kalimpong has accommodation available in all budget ranges.
The Himalayan Hotel (Tel: 03552-255248, 258602; Tariff: ₹3,757) is one of the best in town, surrounded by beautiful gardens. It also has great views of the Khangchendzonga. The hotel has a restaurant and a bar.
The Elgin Silver Oaks (Tel: 255296, 255767, Kolkata Tel: 033-40646300, 22269878, 22161033; Tariff: ₹7,900) once belonged to a British family and is now a hotel from the Elgin group, with its own bakery and a garden full of ferns and orchids.
Two WBTDC tourist bungalows are located in colonial-era buildings: Morgan House (Tel: 2832292, Cell: 097330 08776; Tariff: ₹1,440-3,000) is near the golf course in the Durpin Dara area, while Tashiding Tourist Lodge (Tel: 2832292, Cell: 09733008776; Tariff: ₹1,200-1,600) is located on the central Rinkingpong Road.
The Gorkhaland Territorial Administration’s (GTA) Deolo Tourist Lodge (Cell: 09434007080; Tariff: ₹3,500-4,500) offers good-sized, well-furnished rooms in a picturesque setting. The views are especially good from here. Situated near Silver Oaks, Hotel Tres (Tel: 255323, Cell: 09233555456; Tariff: ₹1,200-3,000) arranges swimming and rafting tours on the Teesta. The pleasant Sood’s Garden Retreat (Tel: 260321, Cell: 09733123113; Tariff: ₹2,000-4,500) organises hiking and rafting expeditions. Set in a pretty garden, The Orchid Retreat (Tel: 274517; Tariff: ₹3,000, cottage ₹4,000-4,500) provides accommodation in six cottages as well as a building with four rooms.
Located in an orchid nursery, Holumba Haven Homestay (Tel: 255435; Tariff: ₹1,600-2,200, cottage ₹4,000-8,500) offers home-cooked meals. There is a kids’ play area.
Another homestay option here is Dew Drop Villa (Tel: 259883, Cell: 09609992899, 09733051821; Tariff: ₹1,500), 2 km from Kalimpong along the Galanka Road.
Those on a budget can try Cloud Nine (Cell: 09832039634; Tariff: ₹1,800-2,000), a cosy hotel with only five rooms. The restaurant serves tasty Sikkimese and Bhutanese dishes. The hotel has a tie-up with Help Tourism (Kolkata Tel: 033-24550917). Gompu’s Hotel (Tel: 255818; Tariff: ₹1,600-2,200), at Dambar Chowk, is another fine option.
Where to Eat
Visitors will find steaming momos, thukpa, soup and chow-stands at most street corners. Kalimpong is also known for its ‘almost Cheddar’ cheese. A Swiss Jesuit by the name of Andre Butty set up the Swiss Welfare Dairy in Kalimpong in the 1950s and started a cheese industry. You can find some good cheese at Lark’s Provisions on Rishi Road. Glenary’s (not connected with the famous confectionery in Darjeeling), has two eateries on Rishi Road and Ongden Road. Mandarin Restaurant is famous for its fish and roast pork. Gompu Hotel’s restaurant has a bar that is much sought-after. Run by Tibetans, Kalsang, on Link Road, dishes out delicious Tibetan fare. Annapurna Restaurant is also popular. For a fine-dining experience, head to the Himalayan Hotel or Silver Oaks, but be sure to book in advance.
Cooch Behar
Where to Stay & Eat
Hotel Ellora (Tel: 03582-224318, 222125; Tariff: ₹800-4,100), near the palace, and Benfish’s Maharaja Tourist Complex (Tel: 223094; Tariff: ₹500-1,000) are the best choices in town.
The other options are Hotel Royal Palace (Tel: 222210, 230731; Tariff: ₹850-3,000) and Yubraj Hotel (Tel: 231710, 227885; Tariff: ₹800-3,373). Eat at the hotel restaurants or The Mall, opposite the palace.
Driving OptIons
You can cut short the number of days by driving only up to a certain stopover and returning to Siliguri. You can also drive straight to Gangtok from Siliguri and then head back. For a longer trip, spend time in Phuentsholing and the Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary and the Buxa Tiger Reserve.