That’s where the women’s toilet used to be,” says retired Wing Commander Mangal Singh matter of factly, referring to the location of my gorgeous room at the Hill Fort Kesroli. The Naruka Burj, as it is called, offers sprawling quarters and even more sprawling views of the mustard-studded countryside from its lofty perch.
Mr Singh, whose wife’s inheritance is this 14th-century fort, has been kind enough to drive down from Alwar for a chat, and we’re lost in the labyrinth of lore, somewhere between the Yaduvanshi Rajputs-turned-Khanzadas and the Ranawat thakurs. Singh’s knowledge of history runs deep and his passion is infectious. But the intrigues of Rajputana are not imbibed in a day and the fort’s present proves just as interesting as its past. When the Singhs decided to move here, the fort had been locked up for decades and was in a dilapidated state, and the hillock on which it stands had been encroached. Although his wife and daughter did not want to come and stay—no electricity, no running water; could you blame them?—Singh insisted. His only desire was to restore and preserve their heritage.
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Many modern Rajasthani families have come to terms with their inheritance thus. Restoration started in 1995 and the fort welcomed its first guests in 1998. Since inception, the Hill Fort has been managed by the Neemrana group of ‘non-hotels’. It was to this fort that I retreated two Diwalis ago for a memorable cracker-free evening under the night sky generously woven with stars.
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I’m back again and this time the mustard fields are in full bloom as I turn off the highway onto the solitary, straight-as-an-arrow road to the fort. Last time I stayed in Sarus Mahal, a charming eyrie in a turret of its own with gun ports for good measure. There have been changes. There are many new rooms, with jharokhas and views (even a bathtub in one of them), a large swimming pool, a spiffy and spacious air-conditioned/heated dining room and an almost-ready spa by Indulge under the pool. The service is just as warm and non-obsequious as I remember—something for which the repeat visitor is always grateful.
Once, the Hill Fort was a strategic checkpost on the high road to Alwar, set on the only hillock for miles around (geologists may note that the hillock is comprised of a particular dark stone, the hornstone breccia, rare in these parts). Today, it is a retreat, which draws writers, artists and every shade of peace lover. (It’s a popular choice for intimate weddings as well.) There’s absolutely nothing to do, except watch sunset from the ramparts over chai (which, by the way, is excellent) and pakodas, follow this up with drinks around a fire in the pebble-strewn courtyard with local folk music for company and some delish Rajasthani fare afterwards.
Velocipedes stand parked for some soft adventure cycling through the fields belows. Or you can just walk and take in scenes of rural life and train your binoculars on the birds. The Hill Fort is also a great base for excursions to the Sariska National Park, the nearby Kankwari Fort or Alwar town. For my part I stay put, although the charming resident manager, Amresh Chauhan, does convince me to go on an slushy but nevertheless rewarding walk through the mustard fields.
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The Hill Fort’s aesthetic is understated, by design. After the steep climb to the reception, the perspective flattens out with rooms spread about the property. Some lead off from the TV lounge, which is good for board games. Some are perched on the hillock’s edge. Some are private nooks up short flights of stairs, past heaving clumps of bougainvillea. Each one is unique, and uniquely named—Hindola, Tota, Nirmal, Baaj, Mubarak, and so on. My room, named after the Rajput clan that lorded over Alwar, is from the new crop of accommodation. The furniture oozes character, the furnishings are tasteful, there’s a lavishly-sized bathroom with a cleverly concealed geyser, vintage prints on the walls, arched windows that fold downwards showing off the carpenter’s skill. There’s not a bit of ostentation in my ‘mahal’, it just feels right.
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Light streams in through the glass doors of the new dining room but if you want to be out there, there’s outdoor seating by the pool as well. The food is simple and tasty and there are always some local specialities, like laal maas, on offer. Any special preferences you may have for breakfast are inquired about the night before, and remembered. And that’s while they’re plying you with hot water bottles as you head back roomwards, were it winter. My room had one of those new ACs which come with a heater function, so the extra suitcase of woollies never needed to be opened.
From 12 rooms just a few years ago, the Hill Fort is now a 28-room offering. The additions are seamless and sensitive, and that’s no small achievement. The fort is still cosy; it’s just that more people can enjoy it now.
The information
Where: Village Kesroli, Alwar district, Rajasthan. 190km/4-5 hours drive from Delhi.
Accommodation: 28 suites operational, 7 more coming up
Tariff: Rs 3,000–10,000, including breakfast
Contact: +91-11-46661666 (central reservations), www.neemranahotels.com