The Whistling Thrush Cottage, at 1,572m in the Western Ghats, is perfect for escape. This 10-year-old, spacious and tastefully done cottage is set in a 400-acre plantation of coffee and cardamom, carved into a lush extended forest reserve in Kerala’s least populated panchayat. It has only three large, comfortable bedrooms — cause for celebration rather than doubt for the get-away-from-the-crowds traveller.
The cottage is not named by virtue of some fanciful pretension. Neither beak nor feather of it was revealed but this curious bird, early to rise but not necessarily early to bed would, through the day, almost mournfully, somewhat tonelessly, whistle a strain over and over. With an occasional shift in groove.
While the owner, Anthony George, tends to nest during summer holidays, there are joys for all seasons. The murmuring breeze lifts to a roar amongst the towering trees under the monsoon rains, swelling the waterfalls and tossing the colourful raincoats of the tea pickers. A fall-out of the newly widened roads is a tendency for trees to come down in a thunderous heap on the main road as roots lose purchase, but the road workers, in concerted habit, clear it aside swiftly.
Rain and my very short visit prevent me from partaking of the Victoria chapel and other local wonders. No visit to Keshavan Para with astounding views, no picnicking at the Seethakundu waterfall. No night walk with estate worker Thomas for the promised glimpse of a leopard. No time for history and local lore on the estate with Pillai-sir, or time to train in naturalist Shibu’s binoculars on the diversity of birds and animals that he spots just when I’m looking away. One wonder is in-house though: the freshly cooked meals are simple but delectable.
The information
Location: Poothundu Estate, Padagiri PO, Nelliyampathy, Kerala
Accommodation: Three double rooms
Tariff: Rs 3,200 per couple
Contact: John George, +91-9349400061, johngeorge@gmail.com