With the hotel room shortage across the country, especially in the National Capital Region (NCR), visitors end up having to firm up plans unrealistically early or paying through their noses — very often, both. The alternative, up to just a year ago, was a seedy, rundown ‘guesthouse’ with dingy rooms and disgusting bathrooms.
The Ministry of Tourism’s Bed & Breakfast scheme has changed all of that. The amenities in the best are on par with posh hotels — at less than a quarter their price. The most modest are like having a room of your own in a relative’s home. None of the cookie-cutter aesthetic and impersonality of a chain hotel. At least one home-cooked meal is assured. The bustle of 100-plus rooms is replaced by the intimacy of five sets of neighbours. And most are child-friendly, often with a ‘playmate’ already in residence.
We check out a selection of B&Bs in the NCR. Most of the properties featured have good websites, which you should peruse thoroughly — both to check the facilities and to get a ‘feel’ of the place.
BNINETEEN
Architect couple Janis McClinch and Rajive Chaudhry from Boston decided to move to Delhi in 2004. The property they bought after a year’s search had a glorious location across from Humayun’s Tomb and opposite the Nila Gumbad. Then they pooled their expertise with local artisans over another year to transform it into a home that maximised natural light, ventilation and space — and afforded every room, verandah and even the stairwell with a view of history.
At night, when the monuments are lit up, the terrace is a magical place to linger — even while under renovation, when we visited. The staff, headed by Raman and Christine, is happy to bring your dinner up under the stars, if you’ve opted to order from the in-room menu.
Breakfasts are simple: fruit with yoghurt or eggs or cereal; other meals are hearty Indian fare, priced per dish. Or you can buy your own groceries, stock up the refrigerator and fix your own plate — there’s a fully equipped kitchen on each floor, open to guests.
The white-walled rooms are decorated in a youthful, contemporary vein. Simple cane furniture, woven lamps and sheer/solid drapes lend lightness and ‘global village’ charm, but the single sumptuous bed covering is a richly worked fabric that earths the room firmly in Indian soil. Yet the clean, spare lines camouflage an awe-inspiring amount of storage — giant wardrobes, full-size dressing table, under-bed drawers, long luggage rack, desk and entertainment console (DSL Internet connection made available for a daily charge). The impressively sized and intensely hued bathrooms with their covetable fixtures are stocked with yummy Khadi toiletries. Chrome-barred balconies stretch outside a wall of French windows, with lounging space for each set of residents. In the basement, the common areas include a sunken lounge with rattan suites and a sprawling office area. In addition, there’s a resting area for early check-ins and late check-outs, with a cot and en suite bathroom.
B-19 Nizamuddin East; 011-41825500, www.bnineteen.com. Tariff: Rs 6,000 (till September 14); thereafter, Rs 6,750. Category: Gold. Rooms: 5 (+ Room 6, available only to a long-term tenant)
THE ESTATE
You need to see it — and not hear it — to believe that a property so close to hectic Andheria Mor and backed up against Sultanpur Village could be so quiet. Inside this small, serene and green-gated estate is the NCR’s most peaceful B&B. It’s easy to forget where you are — on a cool winter morning, silver oak swaying outside your French window, you could be at a hill station. Even in summer, birdcalls herald dusk and dawn with such fervour that my husband is adamant it’s a doorbell!
When Mamta and Chetan Sharma opened their home to guests, their primary considerations were enabling conviviality while ensuring privacy. Perfectly achieved by enlarging the annexe to the main building to house the guestrooms and planting a light screen of greenery. The terrace has a turfed garden, perfect for bookworms and tea treats. The lawn is lovely for lounging in — the couple often entertain here, a treat for their daughter Shayla.
Indeed, one of the things Mamta prizes about her B&B is the interaction with people, which helped her shy daughter blossom into an outgoing young lady. Visitors prize Mamta’s deft touch practised over years in the hospitality industry. Five star-quality bedding sourced from the same manufacturer as the Imperial. Rooms named for trees on the premises: Kachnar and Nargis; Champa and Chameli; Raat-ki-Rani on the terrace. Generously stocked bathrooms. A varied and reasonably priced snack basket in each room (Mamta favours the honour system, placing a small coffer beside).
Lunch and dinner are provided on request, for a small extra charge. Every meal is served on the dot — Mamta’s ex-military father has been in charge of training her battalion in precision and punctuality!
Spreads are lavish, Indian or Continental. The staff are exhorted to note preferences and adapt. Pasta cooked al dente, sans a surfeit of sauce for the French ladies. Fresh fruit pressed on the youngster who would away to work with just coffee and a cookie. And papads to add crunch to a newlyweds’ flower-strewn bed!
29 Sultanpur Estate, Mandi Road, Mehrauli; 011-26802828, www.theestatebnb.com. Tariff: Rs 4,500 (single)/Rs 4,800 (double) till July 31; Rs 5,500/5,800 from August 1. Category: Gold. Rooms: 5
THIKANA
When Atul and Sheetal Bhalla outfitted their guest rooms, they followed a simple rule: what do we look for in a value-for-money establishment when we travel abroad? The result is traditional Indian aesthetics underlaid by often-unexpected conveniences.
The bathrooms have little LED nightlights recessed behind the shower. There are walk-in closets in some rooms; extra-ample bathroom storage in others; a safe in each. The laundry totes are stylish. Tea/coffee kits sit in each wifi-enabled room. A list of house rules and services, in a cover designed by the Bhallas’ daughters Taahira (6) and Tia (3), is placed on the bedside table. The rooms are decorated by Sheetal, who handpicked everything from the extractor fans to every last lovely cushion. Mattresses and duvets are hotel-quality. Paintings by local artists are supplied from Atul’s art gallery, supplemented by crafts from around the country.
All indoor areas are no-smoking. But smokers probably won’t mind banishment to the wrap-around balcony, given the comfortable seating and ‘green front’ erected against busy Khelgaon Marg. Speaking of which, all rooms are soundproofed with double glazing. A TV lounge makes evenings-in yet more peaceful for guests sharing a wall. A workstation is tucked out of the high-traffic public areas, with free-to-use PC.
Indian meals — delicately seasoned and diverse — are cooked for a small fee. Beware Atul — he can be terrifyingly attentive to the smallest empty spot on your plate! Eating in rooms or in front of the TV is discouraged; lively conversation at table encouraged, often attended by a gentle lady dachshund.
If you’re out late, the location card provided guides you into this gated neighbourhood. (The gate next to the house is shut at 10pm weekdays, 11pm weekends.)
Sheetal’s mother, Mrs Geeta Rajpal, runs a set-up called Bungalow 7 upstairs, with identical facilities. She’s the one to ask for shopping recommendations and help with itineraries. Sheetal’s the one to turn to for help with car rentals and yoga sessions. Sheetal’s cousin Geetanjali pitches in when any of the other three are away, making sure someone from the family is always there to take care of their guests.
A-7 Gulmohar Park; 011-46041569,www.thikanadelhi.com. Tariff: Rs 3,500 (single)/Rs 4,500 (double) till August 31; Rs 4,000/4,500 from September 1. Cate-gory: Gold. Rooms: 4 (+ 4 at Bungalow 7)
Other Capital Bed-And-Breakfast Options
–Harry’s
T.D. Hari Krishna’s mansion on the posh Silver Oaks Avenue is just past the Gurgaon gateway and on the Faridabad route. Sprawling living spaces; guest rooms open onto lovely little garden areas; large gated neighbourhood good for a ramble. Wifi in all rooms. A friendly Labrador in residence.
Plot 40 Silver Oaks Avenue, DLF Phase 1, Gurgaon; 0124-4055384, 9810158515; http:// harrysbedandbreakfast.googlepages.com. Tariff: Rs 3,500 (single)/Rs 3,800 (double). Category: Gold. Rooms: 3
– Room with a View
This flat is a stone’s throw from Old Delhi sights like the Red Fort and Chandni Chowk, with great Metro access. Lovely terrace view. Utterly peaceful, gorgeously green location. Very like a home stay with a gracious, caring aunt — the energetic and knowledgeable Nina Kochhar. Laundry done free; kitchen open for your use; homecooked meals can be provided with notice.
43-A Oberoi Apartments, 2 Sham Nath Marg; http://delhibedbreakfast.com. Tariff: Rs 2,000 (single)/Rs 2,500 (double); Rs 2,500/ 3,000 between September and April. Category: Silver. Rooms: 1
– Sai Villa
This compact establishment run by young couple Ashutosh and Savita Gupta is set in a very thick-of-things location. Complimentary tea, coffee, juices and soft drinks available through the day. Local calls free; wifi in every room; laptop made available on request. Lunch/dinner not offered; but you can order from local takeaways.
E-578 Greater Kailash II (near Savitri Cinema); 9811069943 (Ashutosh), http://saivilla.com. Tariff: Rs 2,500-2,750 per night. Category: Silver. Rooms: 4
– Shantigriha
Right on the doorstep of the Asola Bhatti Wildlife Sanctuary, flora and fauna abound among the fruit trees in the yard. Sahil Pershad and his father Shakti belong to the Chunnamal Haveli family of Old Delhi; antiques dotted about attest to their heritage. Sahil provides a fantastic, detailed location map, with visuals, for you to print out. Indian meals (Rs 350) are available with notice; morning yoga and Ayurvedic massages can be organised. Huge bathrooms! Two canine companions vociferous but quite polite; budgerigars also in residence.
12-A Lane W-16, Sainik Farms; 011-32563458, 9818149019 (Sahil), www.shantigrihabnb.com. Tariff: Rs 4,000 (single)/Rs 4,500 (double). Category: Silver. Rooms: 2 (+ 1 ‘honeymoon cottage’ coming soon)