When you walk through the numerous corridors of Ista, Amritsar, it is best not to be laden with packages, bags or anything, in fact, that hinders upper limb mobility. For the staff lurks about furtively and might ambush you around any corner at all beaming with a full-fledged ‘namaskar’, putting you to the trouble, for the sixth time since you left your room, of reciprocating with equal fervor or feeling like a grouch.
As you drive up G.T. Road in Amritsar, the luxury hotel isn’t a particularly striking building. Tall enough but otherwise unremarkable. It is once you enter its portals that it makes a serious attempt to dominate. Off the reception is a fairly outré centerpiece that hypnotically draws the eye at night — giant flowers that spout water and fire at the same time. Otherwise, it is a pleasing and impressive space. Everything is well proportioned: high ceilings and long corridors lined with asymmetric wooden columns, a large table that quite dwarfs the reception staff; an opulent waiting area.
It was with anticipation therefore that I followed my luggage into the room and it fell somewhat short. While Ista treats its public areas — restaurants, lounges and bar — with generosity, the private spaces are allocated with a grudging hand. But only with regard to dimensions, however, for within the space is a neat design that provides for most needs: a walk-in wardrobe, a television, a minibar and supplies counter, a writing table and large mirrored sliding door that demarcates the bathroom. A wicker bucket seat and a bench along one portion of the wall caters to seating, and by the bed, a remote control unit allows you to manage lights and air-conditioning without exerting more energy than it takes to extend an arm. The décor was vibrant, and the house colors conspicuous. I missed a balcony sorely, however, and a longer stay might well have driven me stir-crazy.
Ista is owned by the same group that runs the celebrated spa, Ananda in the Himalayas. After Bangalore and Hyderabad, Amritsar is their third hotel under the Ista brand name. So this one has a spa naturally, and they offer a range of services. Again, the rooms are smaller than you’d expect given the general proportions of the hotel. The staff is professional and the ambience has all the elements it cynically should: tilak ceremony and feet-washing to start everything off; shlokas playing, diyas, Tibetan cleansing bells. I thought they relied a bit too much on the props.
The restaurants, on the other hand, induced more wholehearted enthusiasm. The Lounge Bar uses the local touch to moody effect — pictures of Amritsar on colored glass slats all along one wall, while the surface behind the bar is adorned inexplicably with musical instruments. On the first floor, Thai Chi, which offers Chinese and Thai cuisine, is a dramatic area. Filigreed windows filter the light lovingly and oriental motifs are strewn everywhere. Their open-air seating with Thai salas was particularly lovely. I didn’t get to eat here but I’d have liked to.
Collage, the all-day restaurant where I did eat is a sprawling space, doing well on sunlight — and food. Dinnertime, live teppanyaki and tempura stations occupy one counter. I particularly enjoyed the buffets though; their presentation was superb. A range of salads assuaged the conscience and lined the tissues for biryani, a world-class panchmeladaal and a glut of desserts that went down easy. I was told I’d find the food in Amritsar divine; they didn’t say all these memorable meals would be in Ista.
On the whole, the hotel carries a luxurious air, advantages that are topped by its proximity to the Golden Temple.
The information
Where: Amritsar; 5km from the Golden Temple
Accommodation: 248 rooms: 175 Premium, 36 Deluxe, 18 Deluxe Bay, 9 Luxury, 9 Deluxe Suites, 1 Presidential Suite (suites are still under construction)
Tariff: Rs 5,000 (Premium), Rs 6,000 (Deluxe), Rs 7,000 (Luxury), Rs 10,000 (Deluxe Suites), Rs 18,000 (Presidential Suite). Taxes extra.
Contact: 0183-2708888, www.istahotels.com/istaamritsar