“Pranam,” says the kurta-clad gentleman at my doorstep, bowing gently before opening the door of a gleaming silver Ambassador for me. Inside, lush red leather upholstery and a polished wooden dashboard exudes a retro-chic charm. Fifteen minutes later, our car is pulling up the sweeping stone driveway of Aman New Delhi — the only decorative element is a monolithic white-sandstone elephant at the far end. At first sight, the unexpectedly austere stone façade of this luxury resort appears almost characterless, slightly forbidding. But as I proceed, I realize that I’m surrounded by a kind of opulence that will leave the snottiest traveler impressed.
For this is the Aman philosophy: to eschew all ostentatious grandeur in favor of an aesthetic that is utterly minimalist and luxury that is equally understated. Inhabiting the expansive six-acre space where the Lodhi Hotel once stood, the Aman (which should be formally open by the time you read this) is the group’s third property in India after Amanbagh and Aman-i-Khas, and aims to offer the impossible: a tranquil retreat in the heart of our frenetic capital. Created entirely from Khareda stone, the massive property provides a relatively modest 31 rooms and 36 suites in two neat multistoried buildings, thus affording vast open surroundings. A supremely manicured lawn, green with ficus trees and a long soothing water body serves as the central courtyard, while traditional stone jaalis inspired by the Mughal era shade the balconies of each room, casting pretty shadowy patterns everywhere.
The interiors display the same simplicity in design: meticulously clean lines, a subtle brown color scheme, timber veneer panelling along the walls, with the occasional hand-carved black granite basin brimming with marigold flowers for a touch of color. “We’ve incorporated most of our decorative features into the architecture itself,” says general manager Antony Treston, as I notice reproductions of the Red Fort’s sandstone pillars adorning the lower lobby. It’s the first time I’ve seen a hotel rely almost completely on its architecture for its décor.
But then this Aman is a place of many firsts. It’s the first Aman property to open in a city (Aman at Summer Palace opened last year just outside the city of Beijing and, unlike the Delhi hotel, which offers brand new architecture, is a heritage site that the group was fortunate enough to access). It’s the first time that an Aman will open its restaurants and beauty salon to the public. It’s also the first time that a Delhi hotel will be making a concerted effort to sell the city as a destination by organizing guided trips to monuments, historical sites, museums, the Old City, shopping spots and more. And those wealthy (or lucky) enough to have experienced Aman resorts before will observe that it’s the first time they’ll find a flat-screen TV in their rooms.
I’m escorted to my room by my ‘floor butler’ and, again for the first time, feel that a suite would have been too much, had I been offered one. A super-large king-sized bed occupies one end of a room so luxuriously spacious, I actually wonder momentarily whether it’s bigger than my own one-bedroom apartment. It accommodates a sitting and dining area, a large writing desk at the other end, two dressing areas, a bathroom with two wash basins and independent spaces for the toilet, shower and bathtub. Sliding doors lead to a balcony that runs the length of the room and also allows for outdoor dining. But the real treat: a private temperature-controlled plunge pool, separated from my bedroom by a single, almost invisible pane of glass. “Each of the rooms has one,” I am informed later by Treston. I ask about the suites, wondering just how much more luxurious things can get. “A number of them have been designed with 32m pools, and the bigger suites also come with kitchens and their own butlers.” It’s distressing that there are people out there who can afford them.
I choose the Aman restaurant for lunch, saving the second, more upscale one — Lodhi — for a more leisurely dinner. A live counter serving “French cuisine with a Japanese twist” dominates the restaurant that also presents Thai and Indian menus. I feel the French-Japanese merits special attention, and since there are only set menus on offer here, decisions are easy. My meal comprises a red pepper mousse, leek roll with duck roast, grilled chicken with garlic sauce, crab custard and an assorted dessert platter that hits the spot.
Sleep is always welcome after a satisfying meal, especially in a place where time doesn’t matter. I repair to my room, and as I sink into the most comfortable mattresses my body has ever known, I become aware of why the Aman New Delhi will succeed: the rooms make you want to never leave them.
I wake to a steaming pot of fresh rose-petal infusion. It’s time for my spa appointment — a 90-minute session that combines a deep tissue and Thai massage with sandalwood, vetiver and pomegranate oils. “Welcome back,” whispers my masseuse almost two hours later. I’m half-asleep once again, and terribly late for dinner. But I’m way too relaxed to care. I float upstairs to Lodhi, which brings to Delhi the flavours of Spain’s Catalonia region. I don’t know enough about the cuisine to know if the menu is authentic, but it doesn’t matter. Not when you’ve got chilled almond soup followed by lamb chops, grilled to perfection, and a triple-textured strawberry dessert on your plate.
Back in my room, an enticingly warm plunge pool awaits. It’s astonishingly quiet outside, and as a lovely breeze wafts in, casting tiny ripples on the water, a quick dip seems in order. From my balcony, I see the bright lights of Lodi Road and cars whizzing by. Before long, it shall be tomorrow and I’ll have returned to the hurly-burly of life. But for now Delhi feels miles away, and I sink into my pool and soak in the peace.
The information
Where: Lodi Road, New Delhi
Accommodation: 31 Aman Rooms, 8 two-bedroom Aman Suites, 14 one/two-bedroom Lodhi Suites, 7 one/two-bedroom Lodhi Pool Suites, 7 three-bedroom Lodhi Pool Suites
Tariff: Aman Rooms: $550/750 (low/high season; Aman Suites: $1,200/1,400 ; One-bedroom Lodhi Suites: $1,050/1,250; Two-bedroom Lodhi Suites: $1,450/1,650; Lodhi One-bedroom Pool Suites: $1,1250/1,450; Lodhi Two-bedroom Pool Suites: $1,650/1,850; Lodhi Three-bedroom Pool Suites: $2,200/2,200
Contact: 011-43633333, www.amanresorts.com