We almost never made it to the Tiger Mountain Lodge. Kathmandu and most of the lower valleys of Nepal were covered in a thick smoke and dust haze, and most flights to Pokhara had been cancelled. Thankfully, the haze cleared the next day and Buddha Air flew us to Pokhara, albeit an hour late.
At the airport we were greeted by Krishna, one of the Lodge’s drivers, with some inviting cold towels and chilled bottles of water. We left Pokhara airport and drove east, following the highway to Kathmandu. After about 15 minutes, Krishna turned left onto a nondescript lane heading north into the mountains. The road soon narrowed and began to climb—it was an attractive drive with terraced paddy fields, bird calls all around and magnificent Himalayan griffon vultures soaring high above the valley, riding the thermals.
Tiger Mountain Lodge is strategically placed on a ridge at an altitude of around 1,150 metres. The property sprawls across seven acres and has 18 rooms in stone and slate cottages with wooden beams and windows which merge unobtrusively with the surroundings. The cottages are built into the surrounding forest so there’s literally a tree outside every window, framing the mountain views. There are beautifully designed seating areas outside the main bedrooms, with verandas overlooking the distant peaks. The large rooms are tastefully furnished—ours had a large four-poster bed with ethnic curtains and comfortable cane sofas. Thoughtful details like a torch, an umbrella and emergency lanterns are provided for the visitor. The elegant bed side lamps for reading are also a welcome addition missing in many modern hotels today. And when you return to the cottage at night, a hot water bottle is in your bed ready to warm your toes—an important addition, especially if you’re visiting in winter! To maintain the natural peace of the Lodge, there is no television or wifi in the cottages, although there’s good wifi connectivity in the main lounge and dining areas.
On a clear day you’re greeted with an enormous sweep of the Himalaya including the Annapurnas, Machhapuchhare and Lamjung Himal. To the west lie Gurja Himal and Dhaulagiri and to the east Manaslu and Ngadi Chuli. Sadly, on our first morning here, we’re deprived of the view from the Lodge patio, the range blanketed by a stubborn band of haze.
Around noon, the sky began to darken as we walked from our cottage to the dining area. Lunch was served in the courtyard overlooking the valley below. The fare was exceptional and presented with a touch of panache. The Nepali alu ko achar was tangy and tarty, and the organic vegetables from the garden were quite delicious. While we lunched, the heavens opened up and amidst a bout of dramatic thunder and lightning, it even began to hail. Darkness descended at noon as the trees bent over in the lashing rain and howling wind. Jhalak Chaudhary, who has been with Tiger Mountain Lodge since it opened in 1998, welcomed the rain. “This strong shower will clear the atmosphere and maybe the mountains will be visible tomorrow,” he said. We kept our fingers crossed.
Next to the main living room which features a central fireplace, the Lodge has a small library with a collection of books owned by the late Colonel Jimmy Roberts, the founder of Mountain Travel, Nepal’s first trekking company. He led an unsuccessful attempt on Machhapuchhare in 1964, after which the Nepal government put the sacred Fishtail peak out of bounds for climbers. Roberts’s library has a very interesting collection of books including some early Himalayan and Alpine journals.
The rain stopped after an hour and we were treated to a spectacular evening. To the west, the Pokhara valley and the Phewa Tal were back-lit by the setting sun filtering through the dark rain clouds. To the east, the hand-cut stone walls of the Lodge were burnished ochre against a grey-blue sky. To the north, above a band of cumulus clouds the base of Machhapuchhare appeared, dusted with fresh snow. As we watched, a pair of yellow-throated martens crossed the path and vanishing into the forest. It was a rare sighting for me, and a bonus to say the least. At dinner Marcus Cotton, the MD of Tiger Mountain, mentioned that a female leopard is often seen around the property in the evenings!
Dinner is a four-course affair, complete with wine and a change of plates. We savoured a meal of curried apple and mint soup, a mixed vegetable salad with a jaggery dressing, piquant pork with mashed potatoes, crunchy beans and zucchini. Dessert consisted of homemade chocolate brownies with vanilla ice cream and toffee sauce!
The rain had cleared the haze and we were treated to a lovely sunrise from our bedroom window. Walking up to the swimming pool, I was greeted by a spectacular Himalayan panorama. From Dhaulagiri to Lamjung Himal, the entire range was visible, covered with crisp fresh snow. As I photographed the White Mountain’s reflection in the pool, I spotted a Himalayan whistling thrush and a pair of white-cheeked bulbuls foraging in the shrubs nearby. The raucous calls of the Himalayan tree pie shattered the silence of the morning.
Breakfast on the patio was another excellent spread. We were served fresh juice, muesli, yoghurt, eggs to order, sausages, mushrooms and homemade breads of various kinds, along with home-grown mulberry jam and orange marmalade and delicious organic coffee. Tiger Mountain follows a sustainable tourism model: local vegetables, spices and fruits are sourced from the villagers, schools are supported with educational materials and teachers, and the Lodge also supports programmes on rural health, education and community forestry. The surrounding forests are protected by guards sponsored by Tiger Mountain.
There are a variety of guided day walks in the hills around. Some popular hikes are the Pokhara Valley Rim, and the Thulakot and Ramchekot circuit. The Lodge organises butterfly excursions, and birding walks with expert naturalists. We spent the next morning sitting in the sunny courtyard looking at the great white peaks. It was a perfect day, calm and still. My wife Paula started to sketch the mountains around the valley. In the forests below a multitude of bird calls could be heard, while eagles, kites and vultures soared high above us. A butterfly landed close by and flew away as soon as I tried to take a photograph. It was a glorious morning to do nothing and soak in the amazing mountain views. For a few days’ rest in the shadow of some of the greatest mountains in the world, Tiger Mountain Lodge couldn’t be more perfect.
The Information
Getting There
The lodge is located on the Kandani Danda ridge, a 30-minute drive from Pokhara airport. Pokhara is connected by daily flights from Kathmandu.
Tariff
There are 18 self-contained cottages with balconies overlooking the mountains. $250 per person per night (plus taxes). This includes all meals, Pokhara pick-up and drop and guided walks around the property. The best time to visit is October to December and March to May. It’s very cold in January and February, but you get some of the best mountain views then. It’s closed from mid-June to early-September during the monsoons.
Location
Tiger Mountain Lodge, Kandani Danda, Lekhnath NP Ward #5, Kaski, Nepal.
Contact
+977-61-691887; +977-98560-20396; tigermountainpokhara.com; marcus.cotton@tigermountainpokhara.com