The paper lanterns ascended gracefully, tracing a fiery arc through the desert night, and settled approvingly over the evening’s festivities. I had swooped into Oman that morning to witness the launch of a major new resort—desert camp, they had called it modestly—in a country where tourism is still pretty nascent. Unbelievably, for its middle-of-nowhereness, it was just an hour-and-a-half’s drive from Muscat airport and, after stopping for directions a couple of times, we finally found it—perched high on a dune in the heart of the Wadi al Abiyad, the mountains in the distance quivering in the mid-day sun.
When I visited, the tourist season hadn’t quite kicked in and it was a bracing 45 degrees Centigrade in the shade. I survived anyway, and evening proved to be a balm. And jolly too. A Filipino troupe segued effortlessly between samba, flamenco and fire throwing and got the temperature back up a few notches. There was conversation and good company. The wine flowed and the food kept coming.
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They were still putting finishing touches but even in its raw state, the ‘camp’ was bristling with possibilities. The tents, which come in luxury, suite and royal categories, are solid-walled but the canopy is canvas, and the wind roars through it with abandon. The rooms are extremely spacious. The palette is muted and then the upholstery jolts you with the vibrant hues of Omani textiles. Wide windows offer a glimpse of the dunes around. The attention to aesthetic detail is remarkable, from the bespoke lamps to the locks to Radhika Hamlai’s promising artwork. The bathrooms could perhaps have been plusher but then Oman is all about subtlety.
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There’s a lot to do when you’re in the middle of nowhere, and the hourglass has an endless supply of sand. Outdoor activities at the resort include dune bashing, camel rides and quad biking. A nine-hole golf course is in the works. You can have the finest meals under the stars. You can explore the rugged countryside, the lofty mountains and the tranquil springs. You can visit the historic forts of Nakhal and Rustaq or have an Omani meal at the nearby village. Immersion, in nature and culture, is therefore the leitmotif.
But the high point of a stay here has to be the Sand Spa, featuring a unique sand therapy that traces its lineage to Cleopatra. Since the spa wasn’t ready, I had to make do with a detailed, and entrancing, description of the therapy from the spa director (meeting whom was therapy enough) but the long and short of it is that you’re placed in a tub of sand and it simply sucks all your troubles away. If nothing else, go there for the view and to soak in the rugged beauty of the land.
Everyone I ran into that evening spoke in superlatives about the Omani way of life. The most decisive endorsement came frowm the Hamlai clan, Gujaratis from Kutch who migrated to Oman several generations ago, and stayed put. They identify themselves as Omani, the men looking, well, dashing in their dishdashas, the ankle-length long-sleeved gowns that are Oman’s national dress. The resort is promoted by their Al Bahja conglomerate, and they already run the hugely successful Al Nahda Resort & Spa. The Dunes are Niti Hamlai’s particular baby and the landscaper (among other things) came across as reassuringly idealistic.
The key selling proposition of the resort is that it now offers the dune experience that is closest to Muscat. Sitting in a pretty pile in a broad, flat valley, the dunes do seem to have sprung out of nowhere, perhaps for this very purpose. A highway to Dubai that will pass close by will bring more guests. When the landscaping is all done, the resort is bound to bloom into the loveliest little oasis, perfect for that quick digital detox all of us seem sorely in need of.
The information
Location: Wadi Al Abiyad Sands, Barka, Oman; 1.5 hours drive from Muscat
Accommodation: 52 guest bedrooms, distributed in 30 guest tents: 10 Luxury tents (single-standing); 18 Suite tents (2 bedrooms each); and 2 Royal tents (three bedrooms each)
Tariff: From OMR 224 per night
Contact: +968-80038637 (toll-free), dunesbyalnahda.com