Small wonder

Arya Niwas is that rare thing: a value-for-money hotel. And it’s charming. It doesn’t bother selling itself as a heritage hotel — although it is, actually, having been built around a century-old haveli. Its lack of aesthetic clarity — lots of white-and-grey marble, mismatched furniture but plenty of courtyards with plants and corridors with old tiles — is oddly appealing. Its charm lies in a bunch of unassociated facts — that, in touristy Rajasthan, it’s as welcoming towards Indians as foreigners. That some guests stay for months on end. That its ‘gift shop’ actually has things worth buying. That the hotel likes cats, dogs and children. That it’s so well run. Managers of bigger, plusher hotels, please visit Arya Niwas: they have things to teach you. Middle-class holidayers, stay at Arya Niwas: you’ll get your money’s worth. 

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