An air of quiet efficiency hangs in the afternoon calm, gilded by bursts of sunlight streaming through towering glass windows. A cherry-red grand piano squats juicily on pale ivory floors; next to it, a cherubic blonde in a flowing red gown plucks out angelsong from a matching harp. Susurrant conversations recall the ocean breeze outside, punctuated by the muted staccato of Prada heels and the polite clink of fine china. Lotus flowers bob ever so slightly on the silken surface of an ebony pool. The signature namaste — folded hands, bowed head, raised eyes, warm smile — greets me everywhere I turn. Looking up, I see the sky. I must be in heaven.
The iconic Oberoi, Mumbai reopened its doors to the public on April 24 this year, some 17 months after the terrorist attacks of November 11, 2008. Actions speak louder than words: the quick, complete transformation of the hotel into its new avatar of contemporary elegance tells of remarkable determination; the continued service of much of the old staff displays an impressive strength of spirit. Valet and security attendants, bell-captains, receptionists, restaurant managers, waitstaff, butlers and maids all welcome me courteously and genuinely, without making me feel overwhelmed.
At the reception desk, the friendly Arlene scanned my photo ID with a discreet pen-sized device, then swapped my signature for the electronic keys to an Executive Suite, accessed via super-fast elevators fitted with a new safety feature: I could only ascend to my room by inserting a valid guest room key into the security keyhole before punching in the floor number. Without the familiar whoosh-and-lurch of plebeian lifts, I was in disbelief when I found myself deposited with a soft ‘ping’ on the 15th floor in under 10 seconds. I looked down from the encircling balcony to the atrium below — miniature heads and a now toy-sized red piano confirmed my elevation.
The suite itself took my breath away: I stood blinking at the floor-to-ceiling windows that looked on to the Arabian Sea, flanked by the curving vista of the Queen’s Necklace promenade as Arlene happily chattered on about the suite’s features. With a mammoth living room (complete with fully fitted workstation, sprawling hi-def LCD TV, mini-bar, walk-in closet, elegant sofas, butler call-button, fresh flowers and a plate of delicate petit-fours), a spacious bedroom with a view (and another huge LCD TV, luxurious white linen on a king-sized bed, silk throw cushions and an iPod docking station), and a bathroom big enough to live in (glass wall, electronically controlled privacy blinds, a free-standing tub that faced a third TV, marble-finished his-and-hers vanity counters, fluffy towels and a massage-head shower), the suite was big enough to comfortably raise a family in. After Arlene left, I kissed the dark oak floors in gratitude, kicked off my shoes and attacked the plate of petit-fours with a sigh of satisfaction.
It doesn’t take long to get used to the good life. With design that invited peace of mind (clean lines, tasteful accents, thoughtful functionality) and the Oberoi’s legendary service (warm, attentive, prompt, unobtrusive), I found it easier to submit than to resist. I repaired for a late lunch to Fenix, the aptly named new restaurant in place of where Tiffin had been. Although it boasted a new menu, the sushi-sashimi favourites had thankfully been retained. An inventive table centrepiece featured two brightly coloured guppies in a glass vase of clear water and white pebbles; after ascertaining that they were well looked-after (a dedicated fish concierge makes sure the critters are well-fed), I proceeded to eat with gusto a most excellent miso soup, a yellowtail and scallop sashimi and an oversized Fenix signature maki roll, while the guppies glared malevolently at my choice of cuisine.
After a peaceful few hours of work and a grand soak in the tub, I checked out the night skyline from the lobby-level Champagne Lounge, heard strains of live jazz from the new Eau Bar, and decided upon dinner at the outstanding Vetro, with Chef Toms’s inventive Italian fare: no pizza or spaghetti here; go instead for the superb prosciutto and melon, roast leg of wild boar with grilled apples, melt-in-mouth osso bucco with saffron risotto, grilled foie gras with lentils, fresh fruit sorbets and a hazelnut mousse that had me giddy with joy. I went back there for a three-hour, five-course lunch the next day, writing on the comment card: “If I win the lottery, I’d eat here every day for the rest of my life.”
As if waking up in an endless bed to a glorious sunrise wasn’t enough, I treated myself to an hour-long ‘hot lava shell’ massage at the spa. My attentive therapist, Apele, was peace personified, and after a ritual foot bath in scented water, had me choose a massage oil, incense and soothing music before proceeding to the treatment. The smooth pink shells, heated from the inside by a chemical reaction between minerals, algae, salt water and essential oils, were the perfect temperature for a relaxing massage; Apele’s able hands had me in bliss in no time. I spent the rest of the day floating two inches off the ground.
Dinner that night was the gourmand’s tasting menu at Ziya, featuring inventive Indian cuisine by Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia (of famed Rasoi in London). Plated strictly European-style — no casual family-style dining here, please! — presentation is as revered as the dish itself, with Chef Bhatia’s creations teasing all the senses, reinventing familiar tastes in unfamiliar forms. One of my favourites was the wild mushroom khichdi topped with spicy makhni ice-cream (yes, like the gravy of butter chicken). With glittering tableware competing with the golden sunset outside, Ziya’s unrivalled fare and marvellous service make for a special treat indeed.
Just as I was considering permanently moving in, it was time to leave; fond farewells and rounds of thanks were exchanged. Visit the new Oberoi for a meal or a drink; even better, find any excuse (romantic getaway, bachelorette sleepover) and a giant wad of cash to stay there a night or two. Either way, you’re guaranteed to be inspired by its hospitality and touched by its spirit.
The information
Location: Nariman Point, Mumbai
Contact: reservations@oberoigroup.com, www.oberoihotels.com