A full moon casts long silver streaks across the teak forest. Save for this mild moonlight, the night is inky black. Seated in an open-top gypsy, I peer into this darkness, eager for a glimpse of the wild residents of this thriving central Indian jungle. Glowing golden embers appear in the middle of the road, glinting eerily in the headlamps of our vehicle. ‘Jungle cat,’ Dhananjay whispers.
On a night drive through the Ratapani Wildlife Sanctuary in Madhya Pradesh, I have had my first-ever sighting of the small but deceptive wild cat, known to be an adept hunter. Over the next two hours, we spot three more prowling around the dark forest floor.
Located just an hour from Bhopal, the Ratapani Wildlife Sanctuary stretches across 823sq km of the Vindhya Hills, bound on the west by the Kolar River. An untamed forest of teak and bamboo, interspersed with crocodile bark and tendu trees, the area was declared a sanctuary in 1976 and efforts are currently underway to notify the area as a tiger reserve. With hills and plains, seasonal streams and rocky outcrops, Ratapani’s range of habitats supports a wealth of wildlife. The regal striped cat is the apex predator here and estimates suggest that 40 tigers roam these forests along with leopards, sloth bears, jackals, and hyenas. Tucked into this swathe of jungle are the famous Bhimbetka Rock Shelters and other historical sites including the Ginnorgarh Fort.
Given its wealth of wild and historic treasures, it is surprising that Ratapani flies under the tourist radar. I stop at the sanctuary for a night en route from Bhopal to Satpura National Park. For my base, I choose Ratapani Jungle Lodge, run by wildlife enthusiasts Anjali and Dhananjay Singh. A night drive through the sanctuary’s buffer area proves to be the most exciting wilderness experience, and I have far more sightings than in well-known parks such as Satpura and Bandhavgarh.
After the first few sightings of jungle cats that night, I learnt that the best way to spot wildlife on a night drive is to look for eye glare. In the dark, an animal’s eyes always appear before the creature itself, glinting in the glare of headlights or a flashlight. As we drive on winding hill trails, the temperature rises and falls just like the land. We spot a tiny fox scurrying into the forest, and an Indian hare hopping away at the speed of light. Jackals cross our path, and then pause curiously to survey us from a distance. In the depths of the trees, two nilgais, blue bulls, sit stoic and unmoving, visible only to the trained eyes of those who know the forest like the back of their hand. With a healthy population of herbivores such as sambhar, chital, and even chinkara, the prey base in Ratapani is wide.
We turn our gaze upwards towards the branches to spot several nightjars and jungle owlets going about their nightly business. Ratapani is home to over 150 varieties of birds, including drongos, hawks, barbets, and the beautiful state bird of Madhya Pradesh – the paradise flycatcher. At the lodge, which sits on the edge of the Kolar Reservoir, I spend hours watching kingfishers, woodpeckers, and cranes.
In the depths of this untouched forest that thrives with life, it is hard to believe that we are just an hour away from a busy city. I cannot wait to return and spend more time in this little-known slice of wilderness.
Pro Tip
Focusing solely on large cats puts immense pressure on the jungle as well as on the guides. Turn your attention to smaller species including jungle cats and Indian civets, you will have a better forest experience.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Getting there
Ratapani Jungle Lodge is located 50km/90 minutes from Raja Bhoj Airport in Bhopal and 41km/80 minutes from Bhopal Jn. Railway Station
Ratapani Jungle Lodge
Address: Kolar Dam, Panchayat Veerpur Lawakadhi, Madhya Pradesh
Website: http://www.ratapani.com/
Tel: 9584551234
Tariff: Double room starts at INR4,000 inclusive of breakfast.
Safaris
Ratapani Jungle Lodge organises both daytime and night drives.
A night drive in the buffer area costs INR2,500 for 6 people.
Daytime drives in the core area cost INR3,500 for 6 people. Vehicle entry charges have to be paid separately at the Jhiri gate, and cost approximately INR700 per vehicle for 6 people.