Itinerary 6D/7N
Gwalior—215km/5hrs—Chanderi—115km/3hrs—Orchha
The northern tracts of Madhya Pradesh have many fascinating citadels dotting the hilly terrain. With hill-top locations providing the best vantage points for observing the approach of hostile forces, there are a series of imposing structures starting from Sabalgarh in the west to Gwalior, Chanderi, Orchha, Tikamgarh, Ajaigarh and going as far as Govindgarh in the east. A 6-day itinerary covering three of these awe-inspiring forts offers a glimpse into the world as it was a few centuries ago.
Day 1: Gwalior
In the Vindhya ranges, this solitary sandstone hill called Gopachal Parvat must have seemed like an ideal location for a fort, and a citadel of some sort appears to have sprung up as early as the 6th century. Since then, the fort has passed through the reigns of different rulers.
The defensive ramparts – made famous in innumerable pictures of the fort – were built around the edge of the hill, and circle an area of about 3sq km, that has many monuments including palaces, temples and baolis (stepwells) within its fold. The various mahals comprise not only the well-known Man Mandir but also Jahangir Mahal, Karan Mahal and Shah Jahan Mahal. The Assi Khamba ki Baoli is a beautiful well-structure with 80 pillars, multiple levels and chambers, constructed for the queens to bathe in privacy. Even more stunning are the 8th-century Teli ka Mandir built by the Pratiharas and the 11th-century Sahastrabahu Mandir by Kachchhapaghata kings. Sahastrabahu, means ‘the thousand-armed one’, and the temple was probably built to honour Lord Vishnu, however, the name, over the years, due to a semantic shift has become Sas-Bahu Temple. A look-out point nearby gives you a stunning sunset view of the city.
Day 2: Gwalior
The fort does not exhaust its merits in a single day. On Day 2, devote some time to the fascinating Gujari Mahal museum. The recently constructed Gurdwara Data Bandi Chhod has an intriguing tale. The 6th Sikh Guru Hargobind Sahib was arrested and held captive at Gwalior by the Mughal Jahangir in 1609. It is said that 52 rajas were also imprisoned in the fort as hostages. When Guru Hargobind was released, he was told by Jahangir that anyone who could hold on to the guru would be released as well. And so Guru Hargobind Sahib wore a long garment and all the 52 captive kings held on to him and managed to get free.
Do not miss the magnificent carvings of Jain Tirthankaras that surround the Gopachal hill. In the Urvahi area alone, there are 24 idols sitting in Padmasana, and 40 in the Kayotsarga posture. These massive sculptures, which were attacked and defaced by Babur in 1527, are an under-rated feature of this fort complex.
Every night, a 45-minute sound-and-light show is held in the amphitheatre at the Gwalior Fort. The show is the magnificent presentation of its rich and glorious history, architecture, strategic significance and contribution to various cultural developments. For some culinary delight and souvenir shopping head to Bada Bazaar or Sarafa Bazaar. And if you happen to be in Gwalior during winter, do not forget to pick up Morena gazak.
Day 3: Chanderi
Make your way south to the historic city of Chanderi. Located at the cusp between Malwa and Bundelkhand, the region is referred to in the Mahabharata as Chedi, ruled by Shishupala, Krishna’s cousin. The fort Kirti Durg was first constructed by the 11th-century Pratihara king Kirtipal. The structure standing now is not the original fort, but was rebuilt several times and added to by subsequent rulers including Mahmud Khilji, Bundelas, Mughals and Malwa Sultans. Built on Chandragiri hill, the fort dominates the Chanderi landscape.
The main gate of the fort is gruesomely called Khooni Darwaza – referring clearly to some bloody episode of war. There is also the scenic Hawa Mahal, which affords a beautiful view of Chanderi town. In the early 16th century, Medini Rai, the ruler of Malwa, was a lieutenant and ally of Rana Sanga of Mewar. When Babur advanced on Chanderi, he offered Medini Rai the principality of Shamshabad in exchange for Chanderi. The King, however, spurned the offer and chose to die fighting.
Day 4: Chanderi
To the south-west of the fort is the dramatic Kati Ghati, a wall of solid rock that was hewn into a gate. The gate is 24.6m high and 12m wide. It is said to have been made by Miman Khan in 1480 during the reign of Ghiyasuddin Shah of Mandu. This gateway made it possible for invading armies to enter the Chanderi valley.
The seven levels of fortification in the town encompass several beautiful monuments of varying antiquity. Don’t miss the magnificent 13th-century Jama Masjid, the 15th-century Badal Mahal with its signature gate, Raja-Rani Mahal, Koshak Mahal as well as the small Archaeological Museum. Of course, don’t forget to shop for the exquisite weaves of Chanderi.
Day 5: Orchha
Make your way to the historic city of Orchha, so full of Bundela-era monuments that it has been included in UNESCO’s tentative list of world heritage sites. Located on an island formed by the confluence of the rivers Betwa and Yamuna, the fort complex was built in the early 16th century by the Bundela Rajput king, Rudra Pratap Singh. This is a large quadrangular open yard surrounded by palaces, temples and other structures. Take your time to look around the fabulous Raja Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, Jahangir Mahal… admire the ornamentation, narrow concealed stairways, and decorated latticed windows. The Jahangir Mahal was built by Bir Singh Deo exclusively to host Emperor Jahangir and it is a veritable labyrinth of chambers, arches and latticed windows.
Day 6: Orchha
If there is one place that occupies the pride of place in Orchha, it is the Ram Raja Temple. Although a historical building steeped in legend, it is very much a live temple. It is said to be the only temple in India where Rama is worshipped as a king, and the only place where the police – designated to guard the temple – give a daily gun salute to the deity. The story goes that Queen Ganeshkunwari went to Ayodhya to bring Rama to her town. After due penance, Rama agreed to go with her to be installed in Orchha, but with the injunction that he would settle wherever she put him down. Meanwhile King Madhukar Shah had built the Chaturbhuj Temple in preparation for the deity. When the queen returned, she placed the idol in the room next to her palace before it could be formally installed but when the time came, the idol would not be moved, and the room became the Ram Raja Mandir. However, the adjacent Chaturbhuj Mandir is also an amazing piece of architecture.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Gwalior Fort
Timings: 8am to 6pm; Entry Fees: Adults: INR75 Children: INR40; Foreign Nationals: INR250
STAY
Gwalior
Hotel Tansen Residency
Email: [email protected]; Website: www.mpstdc.com
Tariff: Double room starts at INR2,990 onwards
EAT & SHOP
Daulat Ram Gupta Morena Gajak Bhandar
Nayi Sadak, Lashkar, Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh 474001
Timings: 9am-11pm
Tel: 088711 55676
Chanderi Fort
TImings: Sunrise to Sunset
Entry Fees: Free
STAY
Kila Kothi, Near Chanderi Fort, Rajghat Road, Chanderi
Tel: 7898528711, 9179111402
Email: [email protected]; Website: www.mpstdc.com/properties/mpt-kila-kothi-chanderi
Tariff: Starting from INR2,990 for AC rooms and INR3,290 for AC deluxe rooms
Orchha
Timinigs: 8am to 6pm
Entry Fees: Adults INR10; Foreign Nationals: INR250; Camera: INR25, Video Camera: INR200
STAY
Betwa Retreat, Orchha Bypass Rd, Orchha
Email: [email protected]; Tel: 07680-252618; Website: http://www.mpstdc.com/properties/mpt-betwa-retreat-orchha/
Tariff: Starting from INR2,890 onwards
Pro Tip
When exploring forts, do carry a torch. You’ll be going through many dark, narrow staircases and tunnels.