One of India’s more unusual getaways, Pachmarhi is not easy to get to, which is what helps preserve its status as a quiet hill station (except during long weekends). It is the highest point in Madhya Pradesh, nestled in a saucer-shaped plateau that comprises jagged peaks and red-sandstone escarpments. The hills encircle a landscape of sal and bamboo forests, which is indented by deep gorges and canyons, and overrun by cascading streams. In fact, what really distinguishes Pachmarhi from other hill stations is its abundance of water bodies. You can have a picnic down at a rock pool bathed in sunlight, or swim near a waterfall or a confluence of streams.
Things to See & Do
Pachmarhi has the usual roster of places from where you can enjoy gorgeous views. Dhupgarh is the highest point between the Himalaya and the Nilgiris, at 4,429ft, and is known for its famous sunsets. Fairy Pool, which entails a descent on foot, is extremely popular with tourists. This stunning waterfall cascades down five levels to form five tiny bathing pools, collectively called Panchali Kund. It plunges another 30ft to create another spectacular pool. Duchess Falls is slightly difficult to get to, but well worth the effort. Here, you will be rewarded with some unique sights: a formation of trees bowing down to form a bridge, a flitting kingfisher, the sudden glimpse of a gushing waterfall, et al.
Climb the Chauragarh peak for fantastic views. For a scenic two-hour walk, take the bridle path around Astachal (the old Monte Rosa) that rejoins the road near the huge cave of Reechgarh.
Within the civil area are the Buddhist period rock-hewn Pandav Caves, the landscaped government gardens and Bison Lodge, a museum. Pandava Caves or Panch Mathi, is where Pachmarhi derives its name from. It is believed that the five Pandavas of the Mahabharata spent some time here during their exile.
Shrines
Over the centuries, the region’s topography, comprising ravines, cliffs and deep caves, has become the location of Shaivite shrines.
Pachmarhi is known for its annual Shivaratri Mela in February/March when thousands of devotees throng the Mahadeo Temple, 10km south of the town, carrying symbolic tridents to plant on the sacred Chauragarh summit. The Jatashankar Cave Temple is another popular shrine.
Prehistoric Rock Paintings
In the cliffs and ravines of Pachmarhi, the soft sandstone of the Satpuras weathered into a profusion of rock shelters. These provided safety to hunters and gatherers, who left behind vibrant compositions depicting hunting scenes, warriors with bows and arrows, soldiers on horseback, demons, magicians, honey-gatherers and so on. About 50 sites have been surveyed, but only two of the sites are protected monuments. The Dorothy Deep shelter in particular has a stunning location.
Churches
Catholic Church, built in 1892, has stained-glass windows from Belgium that create marvellous hues, but is now open only to the army. Christ Church, built in 1875, is considered one of Madhya Pradesh’s most beautiful churches. It has stained-glass panels that were imported from Europe.
Trekking
For some interesting treks (and now adventure sports) around the area, contact the trekking club set up by the youth of an adivasi tola (hamlet) with the assistance of an NGO. They can be reached through Vinay Sahu (Cell: 09425367365) at his shop in front of Saket Hotel (Tel: 07578-252165, 252256) in the bazaar. Vinay has a rough map of the half and full-day walks that the Tola Trekking Club offers. Many of these walks were well-known in the days of the Raj but have been forgotten with the passage of time, and you need a guide to navigate them.
Where to Stay
The WelcomHeritage property, The Golf View (Tel: 07578-252115, 252467; Tariff: ₹7,000–10,000) is a tastefully converted bungalow, equipped with all mod-cons, such as LCD TVs and a Jacuzzi, while offering period furniture and fireplaces too. It is easily the most luxurious stay option in Pachmarhi.
MP Tourism’s Rock End Manor (Tel: 252079; Tariff: ₹5,390, with meals) is a restored former Colonial bungalow set upon a hillock. Satpura Retreat (Tel: 252097; Tariff: ₹2,990–3,490, with meals) is another MP Tourism property, which offers an experience akin to staying in a forest bungalow.
MP Tourism has a number of other properties, such as the Amaltas (Tel: 252098; Tariff: ₹2,590–2,990), currently being renovated. Panchvati (Tel: 252096; Tariff: ₹2,590–2,990) is a fully restored bungalow, next to the MPTDC Information Centre, offering huts with their own gardens and individual rooms.
Also by MP Tourism is Champak Bungalow (Tel: 252034, 252587; Tariff: ₹4,490–4,890, with meals), located near Padmini Lake, which offers tents and rooms.
The homestay Evelyn’s Own (Cell: 09425310503, 09479648609; Tariff: ₹2,000–4,000; only breakfast served) is a charming cottage with outhouses in a wooded compound. It has a pool with a view. Hotel Pachmarhi (Cell: 09327788000; Tariff: ₹1,500–3,000) is centrally located with fully furnished rooms and a vegetarian restaurant. The hotel also offers Internet facilities.
Where to Eat
All MP Tourism hotels have restaurants serving Indian and Chinese dishes. An al fresco dinner under the stars at Rock End Manor is delightful. MP Tourism also runs the China Bowl restaurant in a bungalow near Panchvati. The Golf View Hotel has a vegetarian-only menu.
Among the better known non-vegetarian restaurants in the bazaar is Khalsa. Rasoi also serves good non-vegetarian food, while Jalaram Bhojnalaya is known for its Gujarati thali. Dhabas and restaurants in front of the bus stand dish up cheap and wholesome Maharashtrian, Gujarati and Punjabi thalis.
holidays
India
Madhya Pradesh