As dusk falls over the large temple complex, the afternoon glow, which had been slanting golden on these intricately carved facades, turns pale. As the light leaches out of the day, birds are bound homeward, their calls turning frantic before they fall silent. The stage is set for the Sound and Light show at the Western Group of Temples in Khajuraho. The narrator introduces himself: he is the nameless Master Sculptor – engineer, designer, architect and geometrician rolled into one composite master builder. The show builds a wonderful ambience, recreating the bustle these grounds must have seen when these monuments were being built, or later, when these temples were being worshipped in.
With attractive lighting, atmospheric sound and narration, the Son et Lumière is a wonderful way to experience any heritage monument. What you have seen by the harsh light of day turns romantic, fanciful… there is room here not just for cold, documented facts, but a little fantasy and imagination that makes you regard these people, who lived here, with greater intimacy. The show at Gwalior is engrossing as well. It narrates the story of the fort, the numerous sieges laid to it, the culture and gaiety within its walls before tracing its arc to the horrific prison it ultimately became, housing princes and saints alike. The Sikh preceptor, Guru Hargobind Sahib was held confined here for 12 years by Jahangir, and the day he was released till date is celebrated as Bandi Chhod Divas. Later, Aurangzeb held his brother Murad and other relatives captive in the dungeons here, and they were
executed at this fort, in Man Mandir Palace.
At Orchha, the Son et Lumière is replete with historical anecdotes. The beauty and wit of the courtesan Rai Parveen, the story of Ram Raja who came to live in Orchha, the delicate manoeuvrings of power with the Mughals… all these are featured. Particularly haunting is the story of Prince Dinman Hardaul, who died a noble death at the young age of 24, proving his innocence from the unjust accusation of adultery. Hardaul is now a folk deity in Bundelkhand, and to this day, the auspicious invite to every wedding is always first extended to him.
So when you travel around Madhya Pradesh, do not retire too quickly, because when the sun goes down, the lights come on to tell tales.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Getting There
Khajuraho
At Western Group of Temples, Sevagram, Khajuraho
Timings: March to September: 7.30pm in English 8.40pm in Hindi
October to February: 6.30pm in English 7.40pm in Hindi
Entry Fees: Indians INR250, Foreign Nationals INR700
Gwalior
At Gwalior Fort, Gwalior
Timings: March to October: 7.30pm in English and 8.30pm in Hindi
November to February: 6.30pm in English and 7.30pm in Hindi
Entry Fees: Indians INR128; Foreign Nationals INR320
Orchha
At Raja Mahal, Orchha Fort Complex, Orchha
Timings:
April to September: 7.30pm in English, 8.45pm in Hindi
October to March: 6.30pm in English, 7.45pm in Hindi
Entry Fees: Indian INR130 Children INR60; Foreign Nationals INR300, Children INR200