Route & Distances: Indore—56 km/1 hr 15 min—Ujjain/Behrugarh—177 km/4 hr—Bagh—100 km/2 hr 30 min—Maheshwar—95 km/2 hr—Indore

Day 1 INDORE-UJJAIN 

A craftsman draws freehand patterns in wax at a workshop in Behrugarh.
A craftsman draws freehand patterns in wax at a workshop in Behrugarh.
Anurag Mallick

Explore Western MP’s textile belt and interact with master weavers and craftsmen in Indore. The Chepa Marwari community from Rajasthan, once printers of the royal court of Ujjain, settled here in the 1960s. They specialize in resist printing techniques like dabu and batik. Drive to Behrugarh near Ujjain to watch this centuries-old batik technique brought from Gujarat and Rajasthan during Mughal rule. In a tiny back alley near Behrugarh Jail, artists create elaborate designs using molten wax. Visit these dye-stained workshops to watch them churn out bed sheets, saris, dupattas, and stoles in vivid colours. Overnight in Ujjain.

Day 2 BAGH

Bagh's unique craft of thappa chhapai (block printing) using natural dyes, the formulas for which have been carefully handed down over generations.
Bagh’s unique craft of thappa chhapai (block printing) using natural dyes, the formulas for which have been carefully handed down over generations.
Abhinandita Mathur

Leave early for the long drive to Bagh, where the Bhil and Bhilala tribal communities reside. The craft of thappa chhapai (block printing) arrived in Bagh with a group of Muslim Khatri families who migrated from Sindh. Their old craft came to be known by the name of the village they settled in: Bagh print. Visit the workshop of a family of expert printers to learn about this fascinating method of textile printing. Watch how they prepare the fabric, use natural dyes for the block printing, and engage in a laborious process to the finish. Most of them are national award-winning artists! Buy fabrics directly from them so they can benefit. Leave with enough daylight in hand for the 2.5-hour drive to Maheshwar, your overnight stop.

 Day 3 MAHESHWAR

The Rehwa Society was set up in 1978 by Richard Holkar to revive Maheshwar's textile weaving tradition, and provide employment to local women.
The Rehwa Society was set up in 1978 by Richard Holkar to revive Maheshwar’s textile weaving tradition, and provide employment to local women.
Abhinandita Mathur

An ancient temple town on the banks of the Narmada, Maheshwar was revived in the 18th century by queen Ahilyabai Holkar. She brought in weavers from South India, and nurtured the area’s old handloom weaving tradition, dating back to 5th century. However, this craft languished once again when royal patronage stopped after Indian independence. Until another Holkar, Richard, and his wife, founded the Rehwa society in 1979 to revive it. Drop in at Rehwa and other outlets like Gudi Mudi and Tana Bana to watch local weavers create masterpieces from silk, cotton, and a mix of both. Take a walk along the ghats before returning to Indore.

THE INFORMATION

BEHRUGARH BATIK

Behrugarh Prints
Artists: Haji Sh & Haroon Gutti

Address: 119, Main Road, Bherugarh, Ujjain.
Tel: +91 98276 41290, 98276 37337

Sana Enterprises

Artists: Mehmood Hasan & Mohd Iqbal Badawala

Address: 18/1, Kalalpura Road, Kuwe ke Paas, Bherugarh, Ujjain.
Tel: +91 99075 16622, 98272 14700

BAGH PRINTS

Artist: Mohammed Yusuf
Address: Village Bagh, Dist. Dhar 454221.
Tel: +91 94254 86307, 90098 15786
Email: [email protected]

Artist: Abdul Kadar Khatri
Address: Village Bagh, Dist. Dhar 454221.

Tel: +91 94240 75965, 78692 35037
Email: [email protected]

Artist: Mohammed Rafik

Address: Village Bagh, Dist. Dhar 454221.
Tel: +91 94259 48227

 MAHESHWARI WEAVES

Rehwa Society

Address: Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar, MP 451224.

Tel: +91 81200 01388, 84249 99225

Website: rehwasociety.org

 Tana Bana Maheshwari Handloom

Address: Mahatma Gandhi Marg, Bazaar Chowk, Maheshwar.
Tel: +91 86026 27811

 Women Weave Gudi Mudi
Address: Mandleshwar Road, Gadi Khana, Maheshwar.
Tel: +91 88004 11898

Visit MP Tourism