Bhopal – 40km/80minutes – Ratapani – 187km/5hrs – Pachmarhi; 3N/4D
Madhya Pradesh’s legacy of the Raj era is reflected in its numerous buildings and monuments. In this four-day tour we explore this legacy.
Day 1: Bhopal
Check-in to the Noor-Us-Sabah Palace hotel for a luxurious stay. Then head to one of Bhopal’s many interesting museums. The present-day Bhopal State Museum was established in 1909 as the Edward Museum and housed in the Central Library building. It later got shifted to its current location in 2005. The museum’s many galleries preserve remnants of the colonial period, from British-era coins to weapons and cannons used in the rebellion of 1857. The Freedom Movement gallery is particularly poignant with documents and inscriptions highlighting various aspects of India’s fight for Independence. The Postal Stamps gallery houses the world’s first postal stamp – The Penny Black – issued in Britain in 1840.
Day 2: Bhopal – Ratapani
The drive from Bhopal to Ratapani takes you through scenic teak forests. Check-in to the Ratapani Jungle Lodge in the midst of this jungle and enjoy a lavish buffet lunch here. The Ratapani Wildlife Sanctuary is a 823sq km swathe of wilderness stretched across the Vindhya Hills. A convenient wildlife getaway from Bhopal, the forest conceals several historical treasures in its fold; one such treasure is the World War II era Prisoner of War Camp, located atop a hill near Delawadi. The camp was set up by the British in1939-40 to house around 30,000 German and Italian prisoners of war. Built by the Inspector General of Police at the time, FS Young, all that remains today are crumbling relics of barracks, stables, a water tank, and a few housing quarters. Nature has reclaimed this once busy township with tall wild grass stretching across the hilltop and poking out through the brick structures. Surrounded by a sharp drop and the forested hills of Ratapani, the British-era campsite is in a formidable location. Today, it is easily accessible by road and a short trek. Explore the area with a guide and do not forget to take in the views of Ratapani from the Sunset Point.
Day 3: Ratapani – Pachmarhi
After breakfast, leave for the colonial-era hill station of Pachmarhi. Known as the ‘Queen of the Satpuras’, the Raj-era cantonment town was visited by British Captain James Forsyth in 1857. Check into Greendale Resort, where the rooms are designed like colonial-style cottages with gardens. After lunch, head to the jungles of the Satpura Tiger Reserve for a safari from the Panarpani Gate. The 20-km route from Panarpani to Neemghan winds through teak and sal forest, up the mountains and through wide grasslands. This is the wilderness James Forsyth explored and documented in his book The Highlands of Central India. Keep an eye out for tigers, bisons, and wild boars.
Day 4: Pachmarhi
Spend the morning exploring two of Pachmarhi’s iconic colonial structures – Bison Lodge and Protestant Church. The lodge is Pachmarhi’s oldest colonial building, built by James Forsyth in 1862 and named after the herd of gaur or the Indian bison that he spotted from here. Formerly the headquarters of the Forest Department, the Bison Lodge is today a museum documenting the biodiversity of the Pachmarhi region. Housed in a cheery yellow bungalow with a sloping red roof are exhibits on Satpura’s geology, history and diverse plant and animal life.
The beautiful Protestant Church is built entirely of sandstone and took 30 years, from 1848 to 1878, to complete. Though the church is open only on Sundays, you can peek through the windows at the stunning stained-glass paintings inside. There are 12 stained-glass panels indoors, including a stunning mural of David and Samuel. After an early lunch, depart Pachmarhi for the journey back home.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Noor-Us-Sabah Palace, Bhopal
Address: VIP Road, Koh-E-Fiza, Bhopal
Website: http://noorussabahpalace.com
Tel: 07554223333
Tariff: Double room starts at INR7,500/- inclusive of breakfast
State Museum, Bhopal
Timings: Tue-Sun 10.30am to 5.30pm; Closed on Mondays
Entry fee: INR 20 per person
Address: Shyamla Hills Road, Shymala Hills, Bhopal
Ratapani Jungle Lodge
Address: Kolar Dam, Panchayat Veerpur Lawakadhi
Website: http://www.ratapani.com/
Tel: 9584551234
Tariff: Double room starts at INR 4,000/- inclusive of breakfast.
Ratapani POW Camp
Access: Buy entry tickets and hire a local guide from the Delawadi Forest Rest House. You are required to be accompanied by a guide.
Tickets: INR 25 per person
Guide Charges: INR 300
Getting There: Delawadi is 50km/100 minutes from Bhopal and the POW Camp is 1km further up the hill
Bison Lodge Museum, Pachmarhi
Entry: Free
Timings: 10am to 6pm
Pachmarhi Safari
Timings: October to July; 6am to 10am and 2pm to 6pm
Entry Fee: INR 2,500 per registered gypsy; plus guide charge of INR 360 (max 6 people)