(4Days/3Nights)
Orchha—200km/5hours—Panna—45km/1.5hours—Ken Ghariyal—45km/1.5hours —Panna—125km/3.5hours—Rewa
Wild Madhya Pradesh has always entranced travellers and lovers of nature. If we are to talk of charismatic megafauna, Madhya Pradesh occupies the top spot among Indian states that has the largest number of tigers within its boundaries: 526 according to the 2018 census. The state has beautiful forests and has a rich diversity of wildlife. However, a trail of wildlife hotspots along the northern belt of the state throws up a few surprising destinations.
Day 1
When you talk of wildlife, Orchha is not one of the names that will spring to mind. You will think of the fort, the temples, the unique architecture of the Bundelkhandi style … but the fact remains that four centuries ago, this whole area was thick, impenetrable forest. So much so that when this beautiful tract on the banks of the Vetravati or Betwa was discovered, it was first named ‘Urchha’, or hidden. It was only in the early decades of the 16th century that Bundela Rajput chief Rudra Pratap Singh built his capital here.
Orchha Wildlife Sanctuary, situated between Betwa and Jamni rivers, is a small reserve with only 46sqkm marked out for it, but it is a terrific remnant of an old growth forest, rich in biodiversity. Covered with teak and kardhai, it has a rich number of tree species as well as medicinal herbs that are used by local tribesmen and villages. There are no tigers here, but plenty of spotted deer, nilgai, peafowl, wild pig, monkeys, jackals and even sloth bear. The forests are also home to about 200 species of birds. Just cross the bridge across the Betwa, and walk along a richly canopied road into the sanctuary. A trekking and cycling circuit has been marked out which is a wonderful way to experience these forests.
There is another unique aspect about wildlife in Orchha, and for that you won’t need to go into the forests – rather, head to the chhatris by the riverside. On the roofs and the domes of the monuments, you will find many nests and entire colonies of large birds. Large raptors flying about in the skies above, their necks sticking out, catching the light now and then… these are the famous vultures of Orchha. There are at least four species of them in these parts, and nests of the White-backed Vulture, Egyptian Vultures as well as the most common Indian Vultures and Migratory Cinereous Griffon Vultures have been recorded here. It is a curious juxtaposition: these scavengers, which feed off the dead roosting in these monuments, built for the dead. Vulture populations had been severely threatened in India by the rampant use of diclofenac in cattle medication and officials here are particular about conserving these birds. Drone photography is not allowed and even night lights are not allowed to fall on the domes in order to leave the birds undisturbed.
Day 2
Make your way to the celebrated Panna National Park. This gorgeous belt of natural forest covers an area of 542.67sqkm in the Panna and Chhatarpur districts. There are spectacular gorges and ravines in the landscape, and the park forms a significant part of the catchment of the Ken river, which flows for about 72km through it. The forests have a natural preponderance of teak and kardhai trees. Among the fauna found here are the tiger, leopard, chital, chinkara, nilgai, sambhar and sloth bear. The park also has more than 200 species of birds.
In 2009, Panna had lost all its tigers due to a combination of factors. So soon after that began the massive and earnest effort to reintroduce the big cat to this province. Male and female tigers were relocated here from other areas such as Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench. Slowly, with concerted effort on the part of the Forest Department, the numbers began to climb. Today, the tiger reserve has a population of 55 tigers.
To the northwest of the national park, the Ken Ghariyal is another forest segment remarkable for its beauty and the possibility of a rare species. Ghariyals were introduced here from Chambal as a conservation effort but their survival rate is not clear. You are likelier to see a crocodile if you’re lucky. The Raneh Falls are magnificent when there is water, and worth a trip for their own sake.
Head back to Panna for the night.
Day 3
Drive across to Mukundpur, on the outskirts of Rewa city. Here, you will visit not a national park but an unusual zoo: this is the Maharaja Martand Singh Judeo White Tiger Safari and Zoo. The breeding of white tigers is a long saga that started in 1951, when the Maharaja came across and captured a white cub on one of his hunting expeditions. The breeding process – one of trial and error – was determinedly carried on and resulted in many white tigers, which are now housed across many zoos in the world. Today, given our sensibilities and ethical considerations, such in-breeding efforts, purely to pander to human whims and tourism, are frowned upon. The two white tigers in this zoo are in a 25-acre enclosure and the safari bus passes through a secure two-gate system. The area is thickly wooded, and sighting is fairly easy given the staff’s familiarity with the tigers’ habits. The zoo also has an Asiatic lion, Bengal tigers, a leopard and a few species of deer. The information centre is full of detailed boards that tell you about the White Tiger project.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Getting There
Orchha Wildlife Sanctuary, MP SH 37, Orachha, Madhya Pradesh
Timings: 9am to 5.30pm
Entry Fees: Indians INR40; Foreign nationals: INR350
There is a 2.5km nature trail that you can walk or bicycle along. At 1.5km from the entry gate is a point from where you can see the confluence of the Jamini and Betwa.
Stay
Betwa Retreat, Orchha Bypass Road, Orchha
Tariff: INR2,890 Onwards; email: [email protected]; Tel: 07680-252618
Website: http://www.mpstdc.com/properties/mpt-betwa-retreat-orchha/
Panna Tiger Reserve
Panna, Madhya Pradesh; Tel: +917732252135
Email: [email protected], [email protected]
Website: http://www.pannatigerreserve.in
The safari into Panna National Park takes place in the 1,000sqkm buffer zones and the core zone (about 580sqkm) is off-limits to tourism.
Timings:
Winter (From October to February): Morning: 5.30am to 11am; Evening: 3pm to 6pm
Summer Season (From March to June): Morning: 5.30am to 11am; Evening: 4pm to 7pm
The Park is closed from mid-June to September during the monsoon.
Safari
There are two gates to the park: Madla and Hinouta. Safaris can be booked at the Karnavati ticket counter near Madla Gate. Private vehicles are not allowed inside the forest and safari is possible only in forest department-approved vehicles. A forest guard-cum-guide accompanies each vehicle that is permitted inside. It is also possible to book a single seat, whereupon you will be accommodated in the park’s vehicles.
Entry tickets can be booked at https://forest.mponline.gov.in/Search.aspx?park=3
Rates
Entry per vehicle is INR1,800 via Madla Gate and INR2,300 via Hinouta Gate. Entry fee does not include cost of arranging private vehicles and the guide (INR480). Hotels in Panna arrange for the hire of vehicles and would typically charge between INR4,000–6,000 for the whole safari, including gypsy hire, entry and guide fees.
Stay
1) Tendu Leaf Jungle Resort
Address: Near Panna Tiger Reserve, Panna, Chhatarpur, Madhya Pradesh
Tariff: INR7,000 Onwards
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 9630815708
Website: www.tenduleafjungleresort.com
2) MPTDC Jungle camp, Madla
Jungle Camp Madla, Panna, Madhya Pradesh
Tariff: INR2,957 Onwards
Tel: 077322 75275
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.mpstdc.com/properties/mpt-jungle-camp-madla-panna/
Ken Ghariyal Sanctuary
The sanctuary, which is part of the Panna National Park, is 25km/45min from Khajuraho and 45km/1hr 15min from Panna town.
Timings: Sunrise to Sunset
Entry: On foot/ Bicycle (per person) INR50; Two-wheelers INR100 per vehicle plus INR50 per person; Light Motor Vehicles INR600; taking a forest department guide is mandatory for light vehicles. Guide charges are INR100.
https://www.panna-national-park.com/ken-gharial-sanctuary.html
For information, contact
The Field Director or
The Deputy Director,
Panna Tiger Reserve,
Civil Line,
Panna, M.P. 488 001 India
Tel: 07732-252135
Fax: 07732-252120
Email : [email protected]
Rewa
Maharaja Martand Singh Judeo White Tiger Safari and Zoo
Address: Panna Khajuraho Road, Mukundpur, Satna, Madhya Pradesh; Tel: 083190 48432
Timings: 9.30am to 4.30pm (November to February), 9am to 5pm (March to October), Wednesdays Closed
Entry: INR20 for entry; INR100 for safari
Stay
MPT Vindhya Retreat, Rewa, Madhya Pradesh; Tel: 9131636343
Rates: INR2,173 Onwards
Email: [email protected]
http://www.mpstdc.com/properties/mpt-vindhya-retreat-rewa-1
A few things to remember
- Wear dull or camouflaged clothing when visiting forests. Early mornings and late afternoons are best for sighting animals.
- Carry drinking water, and wear a large sun-hat or cap. Carry binoculars if possible.
- Be as quiet as possible inside the forests. Drive slowly and do not honk.
- Do not smoke or light any fire.
- Do not litter. Use only designated dustbins.
Do not wear perfume or cologne.