Mural Story: A Guide To Kazakhstan’s Most Provocative Street Art

Street art is a form of artistic expression that uses public urban spaces as a canvas for creativity and social commentary. In Kazakhstan, a country with restricted freedom of speech and media, street art has become a way for artists and activists to challenge the status quo, raise awareness of social issues, and engage the public in dialogue and debate. Let's explore some of the places where you can spot street art in Kazakhstan, and learn about the stories and messages behind them.Almaty: The ‘Mural War’ And The Legacy Of Nazarbayev Almaty, the largest city and the cultural and business capital of Kazakhstan is home to many talented and provocative street artists who use the city walls as a medium for their artistic and political expression. One of the most prominent and controversial street artists is Pasha Cas, who has been creating murals and installations that address social problems and criticise the former president Nursultan Nazarbayev, who resigned in 2019 but still holds significant power and influence in the country. Pasha Cas has been involved in a ‘mural war’ with the authorities, who have repeatedly painted over his works that depict Nazarbayev in a satirical or negative light. One of his most famous works was a mural of Nazarbayev with the words ‘Forever Young’, ‘Elbasy’ (leader of the nation), and ‘01’ (his nickname), which was later modified by other artists to add the word ‘Cancel’ on his forehead or to replace his face with a skull. The mural was eventually whitened out by the authorities, but Pasha Cas and his supporters continued to create new murals on the same spot, using stencils of old photos of Nazarbayev or mocking his portrait with a clown nose and a banana peel. The ‘mural war’ has attracted the attention and participation of the public, who have expressed their opinions and reactions on social media and online platforms. Nur-Sultan: The State-Sponsored Murals And The Alternative VoicesNur-Sultan, the capital city of Kazakhstan since 1997, was renamed after Nazarbayev in 2019, following his resignation. The city is known for its futuristic architecture and urban planning but also its lack of diversity and vibrancy in its street art scene. Most of the murals and graffiti in Nur-Sultan are sponsored by the state or by private companies, and they tend to depict patriotic, historical, or cultural themes, such as national symbols, the heroes of the independence, or the achievements of the country. However, some street artists have managed to create alternative and critical works that challenge the dominant narratives and offer a different perspective on the city and society. For example, in 2018, a group of anonymous artists painted a mural of a woman wearing a traditional Kazakh headdress and holding a sign that read ‘I have a choice’, referring to the issue of women’s rights and empowerment in Kazakhstan. The mural was located near the presidential palace, and it was quickly removed by the authorities, but not before it sparked a debate and a controversy among the public. Another example of a subversive street art project in Nur-Sultan was the ‘Invisible Walls’ initiative, launched by the artist collective Kyzyl Traktor in 2019. The project consisted of installing QR codes on various walls around the city, which linked to online videos of performances and interventions that explored the themes of urban space, social justice, and cultural identity. The project aimed to create a virtual layer of street art that could bypass the censorship and the limitations of the physical space.Shymkent: The Multicultural And Creative Hub Shymkent, the third-largest city and the regional centre of southern Kazakhstan is known for its multicultural and diverse population, its rich history and culture, and its dynamic and creative atmosphere. The city has a vibrant and diverse street art scene, which reflects its identity and its spirit. The street art in Shymkent ranges from traditional and folkloric motifs, such as the ornaments, the animals, and the legends of the region, to modern and contemporary styles, such as abstract, geometric, and pop art. The street art in Shymkent also showcases the influence and the interaction of different cultures and religions, such as the Kazakh, the Uzbek, the Russian, the Turkish, the Islamic, and the Christian. One of the most notable street art projects in Shymkent was the ‘Shymkent Art Fest’, organised by the local NGO ‘Urban Art Group’ in 2019. The festival invited more than 20 street artists from Kazakhstan and other countries, such as Russia, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, and Turkey, to create murals and graffiti on various walls and buildings around the city. The festival aimed to promote the street art culture, to beautify the urban space, and to foster dialogue and exchange among the artists and the communities.