Ayodhya Pahar: Ancient Hills

On the drive in, Purulia is flat, which doesn’t prepare you for the surprising sight that lies around that final turning. After a few minutes drive through forests, the Ayodhya Hills suddenly loom ahead, 2,400 ft high.

Ayodhya is beautiful during the rains. The red and saffron of the earth become a thousand different shades of green, topped by a blue-black sky. You can hear the gurgling sounds of hundreds of springs, brooks and a seasonal river, and at night, when it stops raining, water splashing against the rocks in Dungri Khal, the local name for the Shova river. Locals listen carefully to these sounds so that they can predict flash floods. While the winter here is also a magical time, nothing beats spring, when flaming red palash blooms give the impression of the landscape being on fire.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

In Ayodhya Hills, be prepared to walk. Carry good trekking boots, water, dry food and keep at least five hours of daylight as reserve. Flowering trees, birds, butterflies, the morning sun and waterfalls will accompany you all the way to the top of the hill. Every year thou sands of campers flock here. Camp anywhere you want, as the forest authorities are pretty lenient. But do inform the police and Forest Department at Ayodhya Pahar or Bagmundi.

Walks in the Hills

Paths leading to the Turga or Bamni Falls might just head into absolute wilderness. Losing your way in the woods at night might not be a healthy proposition as elephants from the Dalma Range forests roam the neighbourhood every night. Guides take very small groups of tourists for exclusive night treks. If you want to hire a guide, contact Hotel Durga (Tel: 06792-253438) in nearby Baripada, which falls in Odisha.

Bamni Falls

Nilayan Dutta

Sita Kunda

According to legend, this hot spring is the place where Rama shot an arrow to crack open the earth’s crust so that Sita could quench her thirst during their exile. It is walking distance from Ayodhya Pahar, past the Bharat Sevasram Sangha and through Bagandi, a small adivasi village. This part of Ayodhya Pahar is flat, and there are lakes and huge trees covering gentle slopes.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

Ayodhya Hills has several WBFDC accommodations. The Forest Rest House (DFO, Purulia Tel: 03252-222329; Tariff: ₹500) on the hilltop has four rooms. The WBCADC runs the Niharika (Tel: 225726; Kolkata Tel: 033-22377041; Tariff: ₹500-1,500) and Malabika (Tariff: ₹500-1,500) rest houses here, located near the bazaar on the road to Sirkabad.

Hotel Durga arranges guides for treks, including night treks. It also has a separate camping ground and arranges tents and other facilities for stays in villages. Cars for sightseeing are also available from this lodge. For food, just outside Durga Lodge is a simple shack owned by Harekrishna Kaibarta, an excellent cook. He takes care of everything from early morning tea to late dinners, if informed in advance.

When to go From October to March Location 2,400 ft above the plains of Purulia, near the border between West Bengal and Jharkhand Air Nearest airport: Kolkata Rail Nearest rail: Purulia