Bali Island: Let Sleeping Cats Lie

The peaceful, sunlit waterways of the Sunderbans mangrove forests are a sight you will never forget. On the mudflats, mangrove roots are gnarled into impossible shapes or stand erect like armies of sticks marching into the water. Flashes of blue, copper, black, white or red resolve themselves into birds swooping and darting over the flats or skimming the water.

The island of Bali is separated by the Gumdi channel from the 4,264-sq-km Sunderbans National Park. Land areas of the forest are forbidden to visitors, and the netting maintained by the forest department that marks areas facing villages is visible along the left bank. The net is maintained even where villages are separated from the forest by miles of running water. The island of Bali is one such area.

Bali was severely affected by cyclone Aila in 2009, when the saline river broke through the embankments and devastated the island. A walk through the island will make it clear that the aftereffects are far from over. Women on the island have rebuilt wattle and daub homes, patting a combination of mud, straw and cowdung on to bamboo frames. This time, though, the houses are at a higher level so that they will be spared if disaster strikes again.

If you are visiting during Panchamdol, a period of local celebration, then taking a trip to a haat (market) is mandatory.

Spotted deer, Sunderbans NP

Archyusman Dubey

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Sajnekhali Tiger Reserve

Begin your day with a sojourn to Sajnekhali, home of the Royal Bengal tiger, for the entry permit from the forest authorities. The centrepiece of your Sunderbans experience, this reserve is the only place where you can step on the reserve proper. The cool morning breeze on the open water, with fishing boats letting down nets, or travelling upriver with the early catches, mudflats glistening in the sun, broken only by the roots of mangrove are sights that will soothe your eyes. You will also easily spot great and lesser egrets, the latter have slim long black beaks, pristine white feathers, black legs and yellow feet. But a sighting of the Sunderbans’ star attraction might evade your alert eyes as they are generally very stealthy. Only constant vigilance and a pair of binoculars can get you through this endeavour.

At Dobanki watchtower, bring out the binoculars to behold the tiny green bee-eater, the iridescent detail on the outspread wings of a preening lesser adjutant stork or a deer bringing her young to drink water at the tank. As you head out of Dobanki and back through the meandering channels, it won’t take you long to realise that everything looks very different. The incoming vastness of the green sea has swallowed the mudflats entirely, and pushed the brown river water to the sides of the channels. The golden evening sun sparkles on green and brown waves, across the seemingly limitless expanse of river that is jowar in the Sunderbans.

Fishermen in the Sunderbans

Sandipan Chaterjee

The Farms

You could stroll to a small farm nearby in search of the famous Sundarbans kholshay flower honey. People migrate across Bengal with bee boxes during the honey season. The queen bee is confined to a box, but the smaller worker bees are allowed to move through a net. They are allowed to fly across the Gumdi khal (creek, although this one is over 2-km wide at high tide), and return with pollen from the kholshay flowers that bloom in the forest. The honey is translucent like lemon tea, with a rich flavour and not very potent. Forest honey is better, as any local will claim, because it is harvested from combs in the wild, some of which stretch between trees and are 5-6 ft wide.

TIP When in the Sundarbans, dress in earthen colours that blend with the natural environment – muted shades of grey, brown, green, blue or ivory are acceptable. Avoid bright colours and dazzling whites as they could draw a tiger’s attention

Do not wear deodorant, perfume, perfumed moisturizer or scented powder, as bees are attracted to such smells

Do not make loud noises for any reason, particularly when sighting an animal or bird

Do carry binoculars, sunshades, a small torch, all personal medication and mosquito repellent for evenings

WHERE TO STAY

Earth Villa (Kolkata Tel: 033-24549682/ 719) is a property of Help Tourism, which also owns the nearby Sundarbans Jungle Camp. Earth Villa offers accommodation for a maximum of six to seven guests in one cottage, over two interconnected rooms with a modern bathroom. Tariff depends on the number of people. A 3D/ 2N stay for two would cost about ₹18,650 per person and for five ₹12,650 per person, all inclusive.

When to go From September to March Location A vast tract of mangrove forests and salt water swamp forming the lower part of the Ganges Delta, 112 km south of Kolkata Air Nearest airport: Kolkata Rail Nearest rail: Port Canning