The waterfall is just a little bit further,” the forest guard announced. I was panting with exhaustion as the trail – largely comfortable till then – had become considerably steeper. I stopped and looked around: a clear stream emerged from a narrow valley and hurried away through moss-laden boulders. In the backdrop of this verdant riverscape, rose a series of high hills of the Western Ghats, their tops obscured by dense, rain-bearing clouds. Somewhere up there, still half-a-day’s trek away, was our destination – the Brahmagiri peak.
Though the area around Brahmagiri peak was only recently identified as one of the biodiversity hotspots in the Western Ghats, it has been recognised for long as a place with an unusual geography, harbouring a great variety of life. Legally notified as a sanctuary in 1974, it covers an area of over 180sq km, and is in the vicinity of the better-known Nagarhole National Park (separated only by coffee plantations). It exemplifies an ecosystem found only in the higher reaches of the Western Ghats – a patchwork of dense shola forests set contrastingly against grasslands.
There are human settlements around the sanctuary, as well as coffee and paddy fields. Thus, man-elephant conflict is not uncommon. The sanctuary is an elephant corridor as well – it connects the Nagarhole and Wayanad sanctuaries.
The Brahmagiri Sanctuary is south-west of Bengaluru and south of Madikeri, a town which makes for a convenient base to access Brahmagiri, Talacauvery and Pushpagiri sanctuaries. There are three entry points to the sanctuary – Irpu, Teralu (19km from Srimangala) and Aabailu. Irpu, the most popular entry gate, is close to the Irpu Falls, located in the southeastern part of the sanctuary. The Srimangala Range Office lies to the east of the sanctuary, 8km from Irpu. At the office, you can hire a guide and collect permits. Most treks begin from here. The only Forest Rest House is in Narimalai, which lies between Teralu and Aabailu, to the southeast of the park. The Brahmagiri peak is near Kutta in the south-east corner of the sanctuary, as are the Munikal caves. Talacauvery (source of River Cauvery), located in Brahmagiri hills, is to the north of the sanctuary.
Entry Indians ₹ 200; Foreigners ₹ 1,000 Timings 9.30am–5.00pm Trekking fee ₹ 200 Guide fee ₹ 500 per day
Tip All trekking groups have to be accompanied by a forest guide. No vehicles are permitted inside.
Things to See & Do
A trek through this beautiful sanctuary is so exhilarating that sighting wild animals just seems like an added bonus. But, considering that there are so many species endemic to the region, chances of sightings are high. You may chance upon a lion-tailed macaque and perhaps, leopards or elephants. Birdwatchers, in particular, are likely to have a field day. Also, keep a lookout for brilliantly-coloured tree frogs and butterflies.
Trekking
The Karnataka Forest Department has been quite proactive in developing trekking routes in the sanctuary. Several routes have been earmarked, which can be spread over one or two days. Forest guards and watchers are deputed as guides and trekkers can hire them.
Srimangala and Kutta are two points where trekking trails start. There are various rules regarding trekking. There’s a regulation on the number of trekkers on each route (about six to ten) and all trekkers have to be accompanied by approved guides. Children below 15 years of age are not allowed to take part. Remember to carry good trekking shoes, hats, sweaters in winter and raincoats during the monsoon. Drinking water, ready-to-eat food items, noodles, toiletries, binoculars, sleeping bags, mosquito repellents and salt as protection against leeches are other essential items for your trip. Also carry a garbage bag to take back your trash.
Some of the trekking routes are: Irpu-Brahmagiri (9-km-long route, usually done in a day); Irpu-Munikal caves (14.5km) and Irpu-Munikal caves-Brahmagiri peak (2-day trek covering 21km; night halt at the Narimalai Rest House). There are also trekking trails that begin from Teralu and Aabailu gates, 19km and 21km respectively from Srimangala. One can get to either of these places by jeep (₹ 500–600 one way). To book a trek, contact the Range Officer, Srimangala, or the Deputy Conservator of Forests, Hunsur.
Trekkers can halt at the Narimalai Rest House or the ‘anti-poaching’ camps, but should expect nothing more than a roof over their heads. However, if they carry tents along, they are allowed to camp at specified areas along the way.
Trekking fee ₹ 200 per day Guide fee ₹ 500 per day
Trek guide fees have to be paid directly to the guide; other charges have to be paid in advance and a receipt and entry permit should be obtained in advance, from the Forest Department Office at Srimangala or Hunsur. It is possible to get a permit from the ranger on the spot (the forest department toll at the entry to the forest), but bookings are advisable. The charges have to be paid in cash or as a DD in favour of the Deputy Conservator of Forests, Hunsur Wildlife Division; an application also has to be made to the Range Officer, Srimangala (Tel: 08274-246331) for bookings.
Other Attractions
During the trek, you are likely to pass the Irpu falls, a 20-m high waterfall on the Lakshmanathirtha river that looks exquisite during the monsoons. The 1,600-m-high Brahmagiri peak is the highest point in the sanctuary. Approaching from Irpu, the path to the peak meanders along the Lakshmanathirtha and passes through shola forests. Munikal caves are a natural cave formation that can be reached by taking a 2.5-km detour at Narimalai.
Where to Stay
Within the Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary, there are limited lodging facilities. The only Forest Rest House (Tel: 08274-246331; Tariff: ₹ 1,000) is at Narimalai, but one has to take along provisions. The caretaker can prepare meals for you. For bookings, call 08274-246331or 08272-228305. Outside the sanctuary limits, there are a lot of options for tourists at Irpu, Kutta and Madikeri. Kodagu is justly famous for its homestays, so do check into one of them.
At Irpu
Several homestay options can be found at Irpu, such as Ramcad Estate (Tel: 08274-244519, Cell 094- 48144982; Tariff: ₹ 1,500–2,000, per person), a 40-acre coffee and pepper plantation, with excellent Coorgi food on offer. Yaini Green Resort (Tel: 246027; Tariff: ₹ 1,800 per person), formerly High Falls Holiday Home, is located off the road before Ramcad Guest House. They have an array of Coorgi as well as Continental dishes. They also offer treks to the Brahmagiri Sanctuary and safaris to Nagarhole and Wayanad. Irpu Resorts (Cell: 09448475222; Tariff: ₹ 2,000 per person) has excellent views of the Brahmagiri Hills and offers good food.
Where to Eat
On treks in the Brahmagiri Sanctuary, one will have to carry food along. Near Irpu and in Srimangala, there are several ‘messes’ and roadside shacks offering south Indian meals. Since they mostly cater to plantation staff, the food is quite cheap.
During mornings and evenings, one can relish dosas, vadas and bhajji. Wherever you eat, freshly brewed filter coffee is available to round off the meal.
If you are staying at a homestay, the food is usually included in the package. Lodgers will get to taste traditional Coorgi food that has plenty of vegetarian dishes despite its meaty reputation. Make sure to sample pork curries.
Getting There
Air Nearest airport: Bengaluru (250km/ 6hrs). Taxis to Brahmagiri charge around ₹ 10 per km, but expect to pay the return fare as well. Alternately, take the KSRTC night bus from the KSRTC Bus Stand to Kutta. From there, take a taxi (₹ 250) or auto (₹ 200–250) to Irpu. There are no taxis available from Nagarhole.
Rail Nearest railhead: Mysore (110km/ 3hrs). Taxi charges ₹ 10 per km; return fares applicable
Road From Mysore, take the state highway to Hunsur and then the Nagarhole Road to Srimangala via Kutta. Taxis can be hired from Madikeri for ₹ 3,000 (approximately) per day, depending on the type of vehicle
Fast Facts
When to go October–March is a good season for trekking, though the best time is November–January. The weather is fairly clear and the panoramas are most striking during this period. However, to see waterfalls in their full glory, a visit in July–August is ideal
Tourist/ Forest Department offices
Conservator of Forests and Director Nagarhole Tiger Reserve, Hunsur Tel: 08222-252041, Cell: 09845111721
Deputy Conservator of Forests
Aranya Bhavan, Madikeri-571201
Tel: 08272-228305
Range Forest Officer
Srimangala Wildlife Range
Srimangala, Virajpet, Kodagu-571217
Tel: 08274-246331
KSTDC
Badami House, NR Square, Bengaluru
Tel: 080-43344334; Fax: 43344330
Email: info@karnatakaholidays.net
karnatakatourism.org
Forest Department
Bengaluru. Tel: 23343770
Tip karnatakawildernesstourism.org is a very useful website with detailed information about wildlife sanctuaries and parks in the state
STD codes Srimangala 08274, Hunsur 08222, Madikeri 08272
State Karnataka
Location Near the Karnataka-Kerala border in Kodagu District
Distances 250km SW of Bengaluru, 110km W of Mysore, 65km from Madikeri
Route from Bengaluru SH17 to Srirangapatna via Maddur; bypass via Ranganathittu to Hunsur; district road to Kutta via Nagarhole; state highway to Srimangala Route from Mysore (via Madikeri) Mysore-Madikeri Road (SH88) to Madikeri via Kushalnagar; state highway to Srimangala; district road to Irpu, the entry point to Brahmagiri Sanctuary.