Chanderi: Threads Of Tradition

A noisy and bustling town, Chanderi is most famous for its eponymous saris. The town’s tradition of weaving dates back to the 18th century, and today, more than 3,000 families – over half of the town’s population – make their living from the looms. But there is a lot more to Chanderi than its famous chanderi. In medieval times, Chanderi was fiercely fought over by conquerors for its imposing fort, strategically situated on the trade routes that connected north India to south, and to the ports on the west coast; and was graced by famous travellers such as Ibn Battuta and Al Biruni, who were much impressed by her wealth and splendour. Today, several remnants of its rich history remain, not the least of which are some stunning architectural gems.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Chanderi Fort

This hill-fort stands tall over the town, stretching for kilometers along the crest of a hill, its architecture bearing the imprint of the different dynasties who ruled it. A Sanskrit inscription on the fort states that it was built by Gurjara Pratihara King Kirtipala, in the 11th century and was named Kirtidurg after its builder. The fort was then successively captured by the Khiljis, the Tughlaqs, the Malwa Sultans, the Lodis, Rana Sangha of Udaipur, the Mughals, the Bundelas, the British and, finally, the Scindias of Gwalior.

The only structures that remain within the fort today are the ruins of a palace (Naukhanda or Hawa Mahal) of the Bundelas as well as a Khilji mosque with exquisitely carved mihrabs. There is also a monument that was erected to commemorate the jauhar (self-immolation) committed by Rajput women on the eve of Babur’s conquest in 1528. The Khooni Darwaza (literally, bloody gate) is where it is said the Rajputs rushed out to meet their enemies. Local guides swear that when Babur’s armies attacked the fort, the ensuing battle was so vicious that the grounds near the gate were ankle-deep in blood; hence the name.

Nearby lies the tomb of Baiju Bawra (1542-1613), a dhrupad singer and a court musician of Raja Mansingh Tomar of Gwalior.

Badal Mahal Gateway, a prominent city landmar

Jama Masjid

The magnificent 13th-century Jama Masjid, with its imposing domes as well as large arcades, can hold over 1,500 people, making it one of the largest mosques in the state. The spacious open court has arched cloisters towards the north and south, and the sanctuary located towards the west. The sanctuary towards the east has been destroyed. On both sides of the nave, the wings have a barrel-vaulted hall and a square hall at the extreme end. Stone ribs have been used in the barrel vault, and the nave and the square hall are roofed with massive, elongated tombs, giving the entire edifice an elegant look.

Badal Mahal Gateway

The 15th-century Badal Mahal Gateway is Chanderi’s signature landmark. A tall, slender, elaborate arch with exquisitely carved lattices, the gate leads nowhere – there is no building either in front of it or behind it. It might have been constructed to commemorate a victory, but nothing about it is known for certain.

Raja Shishupal’s Tank

Also known as Parmeshwar Tank, the tank has the white Lakshman Temple at one end and the cenotaphs of three Rajput kings on the other. It is said that once Raja Shisupal, out hunting, got lost. He felt thirsty, but had no water. Spotting a woman in the wilderness, he called out to her for water. The woman was actually a goddess, and she created this water tank for the king to quench his thirst. When he asked her how to repay this debt, she asked him to build a temple with a curtain around the sanctum. She also told him not to have the curtain removed for nine days. The king built the temple, but did not have the patience to wait. He drew aside the curtain in a few days, only to see that a head had formed in the sanctum, but there was no body of the idol. This curious idol is now housed at the Jageshwari Temple.

Koshak Mahal

Puneet K. Paliwal

Jageshwari Temple

Situated on a hillside, a climb of 90 steps will lead you up to the Jageshwari temple. The devi’s shrine here has two lions guarding it. The idol just has a face, said to be swayambhu or selfmanifested. It is apparently placed on a pedestal, which is heavily draped with cloth.

Kati Ghati

Chanderi’s most dramatic site – the Kati Ghati is the place where an opening was cut overnight through a gigantic wall of solid rock, by Miman Khan in 1480 during the reign of Ghiyasuddin Shah of Mandu. This truly super-human effort allowed the invading army to enter the lush green Chanderi valley.

Ramnagar Mahal

The road from Kati Ghati leads to a 17th-century Bundela-era palace, Ramnagar Mahal. This was probably used as a hunting lodge, but today, it is an open-air museum. The palace overlooks a vast water body, the Mehjatiya Lake. Babur camped at this lakeside the night before he stormed and took Chanderi Fort in 1528.

Raja-Rani Mahal

The sprawling 15th-century Raja-Rani Mahal, features two distinct buildings that are connected by colonnaded passages. Now pain-stakingly restored by Intach, the palace houses the looms the NGO Chanderiyaan has set up for training the town’s youngsters in weaving, and block printing as well as tailoring. Additionally, the Digital Empowerment Foundation also trains them in computerising design motifs, many of them copied from Chanderi’s historic monuments, which are then easily reproduced by the weavers on saris and dupattas.

Closeup of a weaver working his magic on a loom

Chanderi Museum

This small museum is run by the Archaeological Survey of India. It boasts superb sculptures collected from the ruined temples of Buddhi (old) Chanderi, dating from the 10th to 12th centuries. There are also photographs of Stone Age rock paintings from Madhya Pradesh. Do not miss the sculpture of Varaha (Lord Vishnu’s incarnation as a boar) in the museum’s well-kept grounds.

Timings 10.00am-6.00pm; Closed Fridays

Koshak Mahal

On the outskirts of Chanderi is the impressive 15th-century Koshak Mahal. It looks like a vast roofless cathedral with only three of its original seven storeys remaining. It is a square building, like a cross, obviously built this way to provide a wide, open passage in the middle of each side running across the whole length. Built entirely of white local sandstone, all the four mansions of Koshak Mahal are identical. Each one is three-storeyed and is three aisles deep on either side. Notice the first storey’s unique ceiling. Divided into square bays altogether, each one is roofed by four fling arches – all in stone – meeting at the apex, thus forming a gorgeous cross-vault. The upper-most storey is most ornamental, with elaborate carving and jaali work.

Prehistoric rock shelters at Nanaun

Puneet K. Paliwal

AROUND CHANDERI

Nanaun (25 km)

A one-hour drive south of Chanderi lie the prehistoric rock shelters at Nanaun, located at the edge of a vast plateau covered with thorny vegetation. There, beside the Urvashi river, where giant crocodiles laze on the banks, are isolated cave shelters with Stone Age paintings of animals and stick-like figures. Look for the scene of a tiger attacking a herd of deer.

Kadwaya, about 55 km from Chanderi, has a cluster of temples from the 8th to 12th centuries, similar in style to Khajuraho. Excavations are still underway.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The only accommodation option in Chanderi is the government-run MP Tourism hotel called Tana Bana (Tel: 07547-252222, Cell: 07725896140; Tariff: ₹1,190-1,990).

Ashok Nagar, 46 km from Chanderi, has a few more options. Hotel Rajshree (Tel: 07543-221369; Tariff: ₹1,250-3,000) has air-conditioned rooms and an on-site restaurant serving both vegetarian and nonvegetarian food. Hotel Girraj (Tel: 220908, 221908, Cell: 094257 23908; Tariff: ₹600-1,200) has both AC and non-AC rooms, room service and Wi-Fi. There are no great stand-alone restaurants in Chanderi, so it is probably best to eat at your hotel.

When to go October-March, when the weather is pleasant Location Chanderi is at an elevation of 1,496 ft and surrounded by hills on the southwest of the Betwa river Air Nearest airport: Bhopal, Gwalior Rail Nearest rail: Lalitpur, Jhansi