Zooming in on one of Ladakh’s most endearing creatures – the Himalayan marmot – I clicked my camera, but all I got was an empty frame. The reluctant squirrel had plunged into his burrow. Luckily the others were more obliging.
Tso Kar, a beautiful lake in the lower region of the Changthang Plateau, is marmot country. We could see them sunbathing, popping their heads out of their homes, and some standing on their hind legs, perhaps in search of something. The sight was so peaceful, it reminded us of what it’s like to live without a care in the world.
Driving further up the plains of Tso Kar, a smallish figure of another animal ambled into my binocular- aided vision. As we drove closer, the speck grew larger and it was none other than a beautiful kiang or the Tibetan/ Asiatic wild ass, that we had heard so much about before embarking on this trip. As we looked at it, the kiang grazed contentedly, watching us from the corner of his eye. A good-looking animal considered closer to a horse than an ass, the big-head kiang usually moves in a herd. But as villagers told us, there is always one that strays away, only to return home later by himself.
A kiang weighs anything between 250 and 380kg and in winter, it gains 10 more kilos. There are about 2,000 kiangs in east and north Ladakh but the plains of Tso Kar is the best place for spotting them. Considering the difficulties in sighting animals in Ladakh’s tough terrain, the relative abundance of animals around Tso Kar is definitely a welcome relief.
Moving along, one finally reaches the lake; so wide, deep, still and blue. It is fascinating how the colour changes as a thin sheet of cloud wafts overhead, blocking the sun-rays, and the gentle-sloping mountains reflect a green hue on the surroundings. The silence breaks as small brahminy ducks quack and swim to the middle of the lake, while at least a 100 brown-headed seagulls take off together.
One also spots the black-necked crane or Grus nigricollis here. The tall grey bird with a black neck, head and tail; its red crown turning a shade deeper whenever it is excited, is a delight to watch. If one misses the bird here, they will find it in Chushul marshes near Pangong Tso, located further east.
After many hours of driving in a terrain of many contrasts, one reaches the Pangong Tso. One first crosses the snow-tipped mountains and then what looks like sand dunes in a forbidding desert. Appearing like a carefully tucked away secret, Pangong Tso is where you want to be to experience real solitude. But used bottles and chips’ packets dropped carelessly here and there dampen the excitement.
ORIENTATION
Replete with deep gorges, the sanctuary is located on the top of a plateau. It stretches across 4,000sq km at an altitude ranging between 4,267–5,791m. The temperature varies between 25ºC and -40ºC. Three famous lakes – Tso Moriri (4,520m), Tso Kar (4,530m) and Pangong Tso (4,080m) – lie within the sanctuary. One needs permits to visit the region.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
The Changthang Cold Desert Wildlife Sanctuary offers you one of the most spectacular lake views in the world. The most convenient way to visit Tso Kar is to tie it up with a trip to Tso Moriri for two nights and three days. Hire a taxi from Leh via Mahe bridge and Taklang La, the world’s second highest motorable pass.
Tso Kar
A freshwater lake, Tso Kar is a major breeding site for the great crested grebe, brahminy duck, bar-headed goose, brown-headed gull and the common tern.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
Pasture Land Camp (Tariff: ₹4,600, with meals) near the lake, with 10 tents, is a good camping option here. The tents have attached bath, provide hot water and oxygen cylinders. Book through Camps of Ladakh (Delhi Tel: 011-40580334/ 35, Cell: 09419178325).
Tso Moriri
The largest of the high-altitude Trans-Himalayan lakes in India, Tso Moriri spreads across 133sq km. It is bound by towering mountain peaks in the north and east. The area forms the Tso Moriri Wetland Conservation Reserve, which has been recognised as a Ramsar site. Tso Moriri is the only breeding site of the bar-headed goose in India, and the globally endangered black-necked crane, outside of China.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
From May to September, Leh tour operators provide tented accommodation in Korzok village near the lake. Tso Moriri Camps (Delhi Tel: 011-40580334-35, Cell: 09818226475; Tariff: ₹7,000), offering 15 deluxe tents, is by far the nicest place to stay. Nomadic Life Camp (Cell: 09906229877; Tariff: ₹5,900) offers 15 tents with attached bath. Tariff includes meals.
Pangong Tso
One-third of this 6,500-hectare-wide lake lies in Ladakh and the rest in Tibet. The setting provides a splendid paradox, with clear blue waters set amidst the vast, cold, brown desert. While one can plan a day trip to Pangong Tso, staying the night is recommended so as to enjoy the sunrise and the early morning view of the lake.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
There are a few decent stay options near the lake in Spangmik and Lukung villages. There are smaller options in Tangtse village as well. They can be booked via operators in Leh. All tariffs include meals.
Spangmik has Wonderland Tourist Camp (Tel: 01982-256062, Cell: 09419177723, 09906999111, 09419980320; Tariff: ₹5,060) with 17 tents; Camp Whispering Waves (Delhi Tel: 011-40580334/ 35, Cell: 09818226475; Tariff: ₹6,600) with 15 tents; and Nature’s Nest Camp (Cell: 09622284414, 09419243495; Tariff: ₹5,000–6,000) with 25 tents.
Martsemik Eco Resort and Camping (Cell: 09419177658, 09906981777, 09596967073; Tariff: ₹5,413–6,500) in Lukung offers beautiful views of the mountains and the lake. Pangong Inn (Cell: 09958150043; Tariff: ₹5,300–13,000), with nine rooms, is the only non-tented accommodation in Pangong Tso.
Hanle
The village of Hanle is situated in the valley of the same name, perched on an isolated hill in the Changthang Plains, close to the Chinese border. The village lies along what was once the ancient trade route between Lhasa and Leh. It is a 10-hour drive from Leh. However, it lies in a restricted area, beyond the reach of ‘permits’, so only ‘connections’ can get you there.
FAST FACTS
When to go May–late October
Inner Line Permit to be taken from the District Commissioner’s (DC) office in Leh (Tel: 01982-252010, Fax: 252106)
This can be arranged by your hotel or tour operator. Indians need to carry an ID and residence proof. Foreign visitors need to carry their original passport
Tourist Office
J&K Tourism,
Assistant Director, Tourism, Leh
Tel: 01982-252297
W jktourism.org
STD code 01982
State Jammu & Kashmir
Location In southeast Ladakh, stretching up to the Great Changthang Plateau in Tibet
Distance 153km SE of Leh, Pangong Tso 170km, Tso Moriri 220km
Route from Leh Take the Keylong-Leh road to Tso Kar, via Upshi junction
GETTING THERE
Road Hiring a taxi from Leh is the best way to visit the three lakes – Tso Kar, Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso. Go with a tour operator . For Pangong Tso (170km/ 5hrs from Leh), taxi charges range from ₹7,500 for a day trip and ₹10,000 for an overnight trip (transport only). Tso Moriri and Tso Kar are usually clubbed together in a two or three-day trip from Leh. Taxi charges ₹10,000–12,000 for a three-day trip (transport only; permits, tents and food cost extra). Drive from Leh to Tso Moriri (220km/ 6hrs) and then to Tso Kar (3hrs north of Tso Moriri), which is located off the Leh-Manali Highway, and then back to Leh.
Contact Leh Taxi Union (Tel: 01982-252723, 253039, Cell: 09419178223)
Package deals Dreamland offers Tso Moriri-Tso Kar trip for 2N/ 3D at ₹9,000 per person (4pax, all-inclusive). Day trip package to Pangong Tso, with lunch, costs ₹2,500 per person (4pax)