Chilika Bird Sanctuary

There is something magical about Chilika. The brackish water lagoon is a vast expanse of blue water, dotted by low undulating hills, filled with the sounds of chirping birds and the gentle splash of water, which combine to create a dreamy effect. Chilika is said to be the largest inland salt water body in Asia, spreading over 1,165 sq km during the monsoon (in the dry months it shrinks to about 790 sq km).

Declared a Ramsar Wetland Site of International Importance in 1981, and popular both for its birds and dolphins, Chilika also boasts great natural beauty. Follow the sun as you cruise on the blue waters, listen to bird calls at day break and gaze at the fishing boats with their sails billowing in the wind. And if you happen to hear snatches of a boat man’s song that comes floating along with the breeze, the melody is sure to echo in your mind for long.

ABOUT CHILIKA LAGOON

In ancient times, Chilika was a flourishing port, a major gateway to distant lands. Traders sailed from Odisha to Southeast Asian islands such as Java and Sumatra and Sri Lanka. Even today, a festival of sailing colourful, fancy paper boats, locally referred to as biota bandana, is held on the day of Kartik Purnima, to mark that golden age of maritime traditions.

This varying water spread is affected by the flow from two major rivers, Daya and Bhargavi, and many small rivulets. When the monsoon retreats, saline water from the Bay of Bengal fills up the lake. The cyclic presence of both fresh water and saline water supports a diverse range of aquatic life.

Kalijai Island Shrine

The Chilika Lagoon is 64 km in length; its width varies between 18 km and 5 km. It has many islands, some of which are uninhabited. Nalabana Island, in the centre of the lake, is a bird sanc tuary. Rambha Island lies near the southwest part of the lake while Barkul is near the centre. Between the two lie Barakuda and Pathra. Satpada is located in the east, near the mouth of Chilika.

The lagoon is home to 230 species of resident and migratory birds. It also hosts the endangered Irrawady dolphin and the Barkudia limbless skink.

Chilika is also a source of livelihood for over one lakh villagers living along its periphery. There’s a constant battle to preserve and protect the many species of fauna and flora that have made the lagoon their home from the adverse impact of intensive fishing and mechanised boats.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Chilika is best explored by boat and most of the popular destinations within the lagoon can be covered in a day. However, an overnight stay is recommended. It is possible to hire boats from OTDC. Guides can be hired from any of the entry points: Barkul, Satpada, Rambha and Balugaon. Many of them are boatmen-cum-guides.

Barkul is the most convenient base for exploring Chilika. Balugaon town and railhead are also close by (6 and 8 km respectively); public transport is avail able. However, it seems as if all tourists congregate near Barkul while those looking for solitude head for Rambha.

Boats on Chilika Lake

Dhritiman Mukherjee

Boat hire charge  ₹ 1,000 per hour (20-seater) Speedboat  ₹ 3,100 (5-seater)

Ferry services are run by the Inland Water Transport Department, from the mainland to the inhabited islands on the lake. There are many private boats as well. A visit to Nalabana and Kalijai may cost about ₹ 955 per hour (7-seater) or 1,000 per hour (20-seater).

Nalabana Bird Sanctuary

Nalabana Island is a dense habitat for thousands of resident and migratory birds. From a distance it appears as if the whole area is strewn with feathers due to flocks of birds that take off as if on cue. While the long-legged species like flamingoes, herons and storks forage in the shallow waters and mud flats, the short ones can be seen resting on twigs, and those like brahminy ducks, geese, pintails and teals can be spotted bobbing on the water. Visitors are prohibited from alighting on the island.

A couple of bronze-winged Jacanas at Chilika Bird Sanctuary

Dhritiman Mukherjee

Kalijai Island Shrine

The abode of island goddess Kalijai is perhaps the most frequented tourist hub on the lake. The goddess is the reigning deity of the lagoon. No boatman or fisherman ventures out without invoking the blessings of this goddess for a safe passage. This small rocky island houses a small temple; apart from the temple staff, no one lives on the island.

Cruising at Mangalajodi

A cruise along the narrow waterways amidst the thick concentration of nala grass (a kind of weed) is a unique experience. Private boats can be hired for ₹ 400-500 per hour from the jetty at Mangalajodi with local guides (about  ₹ 100 per trip) and food can be cooked and served on the boats on request.

Birdwatching at Brahmapura

The 45-minute boat ride to Brahmapura island from Satpada offers a chance to spot dolphins.

The island itself, fringed with casuarina groves is an ideal place to relax and go birdwatching. It’s bordered by the lagoon on one side and the sea on the other.

An Irrawady dolphin

Courtesy CDA

Dolphin-spotting at Satpada

Satpada is an entry point to the lagoon on the eastern side, and can be reached by road from Puri. One can also go to Satpada by boat from Barkul and Rambha, but it takes about 3.5 hours one way. Satpada is an ideal place to spot the endangered Irrawady dolphins. While these charming creatures can be spotted, periodically, in other parts of the lagoon (over 100 dolphins are estimated to reside in the lagoon), the largest concentration is at Satpada. Boats run by the OTDC can be hired at Satpada. The 20-seater boat costs ₹ 1,236 per hour.

You can also visit the Mass Awareness and Interpretation Centre, also called the Visitor Centre, which has exhibits on Chilika.

Entry ₹ 10

Timings 10.00am-5.00pm

Olive Ridley Turtles coming to nest on the beach

Olive Ridley Turtles

Well known as a mass-nesting site for Olive Ridley Turtles, the stretch of sandy beach along the mouth of the Ruskhikulya river is a distance of 2 km from NH5 and about 15 km from Rambha. If visiting Chilika during February/ March, check with the DFO if the turtles have arrived. If yes, make an unforgettable trip to this beach at night when you can sight mass nesting.

Barkul

The Wetland Training and Research Centre at Barkul is worth visiting. For participating in conservation activities, or being part of the bird census, contact the DFO or the Chilika Develop ment Authority (Bhubaneswar Tel: 0674-2434044).

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The accommodation options here are on the shore of the lagoon. Most of these are run by the Odisha Tourism Development Corpo ration and are named the Panthanivas hotels. They are located in Rambha (Tel: 06810-278346; Tariff: ₹ 800-2,900), Satpada (Tel: 06752-262077; Tariff: ₹ 550-2,050) and Barkul (Tel: 06756-257488, 257388; Tariff: ₹ 900-2,400).

None of the islands in Chilika have accommodation, except for Brahmapura, which has a basic Forest Rest House (Balugaon Tel: 06756-251125; Tariff: ₹500-2,050). Visitors must bring their own food.

Chilika is known for its seafood – prawns, crabs, pomfret and lobsters. The cooking style is typically Oriya, with gravy and plenty of masala. There are dhabas and small restaurants in and around Balugaon. All the Panthanivas hotels have restaurants.

When to go October-February is best, when migratory birds can be sighted. Avoid the mon soon period in July-August Location Bordered by the Bay of Bengal to the east, the Mahanadi Delta to the north and the Eastern Ghats to the west and south, Chilika Lagoon is spread over Puri, Khurda and Ganjam districts. Air Nearest airport: Bhubaneswar Rail Nearest rail: Balugaon