Chimmony WLS: A Walk in the Wild

Mountains rise around the silky, shimmering lake at the Chimmony Wildlife Sanctuary. The hill slopes offer a colourful sight, yellow, orange, light green and red patches forming splashes of colour amist the otherwise standard dark green façade. Cormorants dive into the lake and sun themselves on the shore, blending into the branches of the trees, while brahminy kites deftly circle the sky, kingfishers watch the waters meditatively before diving for their dinner and crimson throated barbets call out to their mates. A 40-minute boat ride brings the traveller to the heart of the sanctuary.

The presence of elephants are unmistakable, even though animals are not easy to spot at Chimmony. The dense forest cover helps mouse deer and bears alike to hide from inquisitive human eyes. The ground is a swirl of dry leaves, which crackle under one’s feet, making it unlikely that one’s visit would go unnoticed. While it is quite possible that the closest one will get to a tiger will be holding a traced pugmark, though this also adds to Chimmony’s natural charm. One consequence of the quietude and the government restrictions at Chimmony is that there is no insistent, intrusive wildlife tourism, no chasing of tigers with walkie-talkies or groups of excitable party-goers scaring off the birds. Instead, there are the affable members of Chimmony’s Eco-Development Committee, working together with the tribal community and on forest conservation, and the helpful officials of the Wild Kerala Tour Company, who are the only ones authorised to make camping trips into the forests. This makes it possible to experience memorable and rare moments, such as a sambar deer unwittingly crossing one’s path and flying squirrels peering from the treetops. Malabar grey hornbills throw seeds up into the air with a certain dramatic flare, cracking them open for a meal, while bears, deer, elephants and porcupines leave their marks all over the forest.

Be sure to visit the Naked Maiden of the Forest, a curiously named tree known for constantly peeling off its bark. The ground nearby is marked by bears trying to scratch out roots. Lichen covers the stones here, notable because it marks how untouched this sanctuary is, as lichen only grows in pollution-free areas. Cinnamon leaves add a light fragrance to the air, while wild pepper adds a spicy touch. There are creepers whose stems yield almost two glasses of water and clusters of chocolate brown bracket fungus.

ORIENTATION

Chimmony is a protected wildlife reserve area in the Western Ghats, lying in the watershed of the Chimmony Lake. This lushious green forest area is surrounded by mountain ranges. The highest peaks in this area are Pindi Mudi (1,116m) and Ponmudi (928m).

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Biodiversity and Tribal Culture

The Chimmony forest area is incredibly biodiverse. The forest cover comprises tropical evergreen, semi-evergreen and moist deciduous trees, as well as shrubbery, herbs, orchids and undergrowth. As well as some endangered plant species.

The sun’s rays filtering through the canopy, Chimmony

The flora provides shelter to 110 species of birds, including 22 migratory birds, 31 species of fish, 25 species of reptiles, 14 amphibian species and around 100 odd butterflies and moths. The 39 species of mammals include tiger, leopard, bear, Nilgiri langur, gaura, deer, wild boar and Malabar giant squirrel. Being far away from pollution and untouched by common human bustling, Chimmony also attracts butterfly migrations, where thousands of butterflies congregate in one spot.

The sanctuary is also home to the Malaya tribe, comprising just a little over 200 people. This is the only tribe that lives within the boundaries of the reserve, in a peaceful and symbiotic relationship with the flora and fauna.

Eco-Tourism

The Eco-Development Committee is working on offering responsible, tribal-based eco-tourism. Tourism of this nature involves responsible travel, conservation, welfare as well as education. Day visitors can participate in activities such as birding, bamboo rafting, nature walks and animal tracking. Overnight visitors may stay at the eco-lodges at Thottapura, Anaporu and Mulapara, or camp at Virakuthodu. The latter is best known for attracting elephants.

The Wild Kerala Tour Company (VI/ 480, KVA Buildings, Bazaar 09846162157, 09946851520; W wildkeralatours.com) organises one-to-three-day long tours and treks in the forests. They also arrange for camping equipment. Campers have the opportunity to bathe in Periyar’s tributaries, and holes are dug in the ground for calls of nature. They offer the Wild Serendipity (2D/ 1N for 2–6 pax; Tariff: ₹14,000) and Exploring Chimmony (3D/ 2N for 2–6 pax; Tariff: ₹21,000) tours. Tariff is for two persons and is inclusive of meals, camping equipment, etc.

For those who want to go it alone, the Wildlife Department offers stays inside the Chimmony Wildlife Sanctuary. Choose from the Eco-Retreat (Tariff: ₹6,775 for 3 persons) at Angporu; Tree Top Hut (Tariff: ₹7,500 for three persons); or the Chimmony Forest Dormitory (Tariff: ₹150 per person). Meals are arranged on request and trekking and boating is organised. The Eco Lodge located at Thattapura is currently under main-tenance. For bookings, call Assistant Wildlife Warden Office at the sanctuary.

Chital at Chimmony Wildlife Sanctuary

Courtesy Ajith Chimmony

Peechi-Vazhani Wildlife Sanctuary

This 125-sq km sanctuary lies between the twin reservoirs at Peechi and Vazhani, about 20km east of Thrissur. It is one of Kerala’s oldest wildlife reserves, set up in 1958, 26 years before Chimmony was declared a protected area. Thousands of birds are attracted to this sanctuary by the lakes, the Kurumali, Manalippuzha and Vadakkancheri rivers and the Paingottupadam, Pathrakkandam and Pothiyadukky vayals. The sanctuary officials organise a three-day trek from Chimmony to the Peechi Sanctuary.

Tel 0487-2699017 Email wlpeechi@ sancharnet.in