Courtallam: Get Splashed

Lose your inhibitions at this congregation of waterfalls. If ever a place can qualify as the largest collective shower for humans, this must be it, as you take in the sight of assorted shapes of flesh being pounded by high-pressure water plum meting down from a height of 1,200 ft. This is why Courtallam (also spelt Kuttalam, closer to its Tamil pronunciation) is referred to as the ‘Spa of the South’. A small village located halfway between the towns of Shencottai and Tenkasi in Tamil Nadu, it attracts hordes of people, mostly from Tamil Nadu and Kerala, who bathe under the falls during the peak season from June to September.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The whole point of coming to Courtallam is to get splashed, to experience the stinging power of the falls. There are separate bathing spots for men and women, though there are no public changing rooms. Most visitors just head for the water in shorts, lungis or saris or salwar kameezes.

Vast expanse of the Papanasam Dam

Waterfalls at Chittar River

Though there are six waterfalls at Courtallam, spread out over an area of less than 10 sq km, most people head for what is called the Main Falls, formed by the Chittar river thundering down over three huge steps of the vertical rock-face on which are carved shivalingas. About 2 km up the Chittar river is the Shenbagadevi Falls, where a small temple and a cave dedicated to the Sage Agasthya draws numerous pilgrims on full-moon days. If you trek uphill to Shenbagadevi, stop at the point where the Chittar river drops to the plains for a great aerial view of Courtallam and the green plains of Shencottai. If it’s sunset time, you can be sure of a delightful spectacle, to the backdrop of the serenade of the whistling thrush.

Long ago, a flash flood altered the course of the Chittar river, destroying the culverts and embankments built to block its path. One consequence of this fury of nature can be seen if you walk another 3 km upriver to reach Honey Falls, named for the large beehives on the face of the rock during the dry season. Honey Falls is shaped like a horseshoe and falls vertically from three sides to converge into a small lake. These falls are not easily accessible, though if you do manage to make the tough trek, you’ll be rewarded with good views of rainforest vegetation and huge rock formations. You might even wish to pitch tent here.

The grand cascades of Main Falls at Courtallam

After the Main Falls, the other popular spot is Five Falls, about 5 km away. As the name suggests, these falls are made up of five distinct streams, cascading down close to the Aravankadu Pass.

Approximately 7 km along the road to Tenkasi is Old Falls, so called because it is rarely visited and resembles an abandoned quarry, bare and with no trees to provide shade. But some people do bathe at Old Falls at night, when the ambience can be surreal – huge, bare rocks, off which the moonlight appears to bounce into the open sky. If you’d rather avoid the crowds at the main falls, you might want to stay here. Ask around for the small resort and restaurant run by an Ayurveda doctor near the Old Falls.

About 2 km from Old Falls is Tiger Falls, a small waterfall with a Sastha Temple and a bathing ghat for pilgrims.

Papanasam Dam

The Papanasam Dam, built during the British era at the height of World War II, is an hour’s drive from Courtallam. The large dam (5.4 m wide, 265 m long and 240 m high) took five years to build.

Cottages of The Kuttalam Heritage

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

The grandest option is The Kuttalam Heritage (Tel: 04633-236051, 233022; Tariff:  ₹2,200-9,600) on the Shencottai Road. They have deluxe cottages and an Ayurveda club, a bar and a restaurant. Esakki Highview Resort (Tel: 283773/ 24; Tariff: ₹1,750-6,500) is just a kilometre from the Main Falls. Their Spice of Life Restaurant boasts excellent non-vegetarian south-Indian dishes. Another mid-range option is Srishty Garden Resorts (Tel: 220960; Tariff: ₹900-2,750). Also in the medium range, Kurinji Villa Lodge (Tel: 283267; Tariff: ₹ 750- 1,750) on the Shencottai Road opposite the entrance to the Main Falls, is a comfortable option, as is TTDC’s Hotel Tamil Nadu (Tel: 283003; Tariff: ₹900-2,300). The food here is quite good. TTDC also has another Hotel Tamil Nadu (Tel: 283663; Tariff: ₹900-2,300) in Ramallam. It has a bar and offers room service. 

The Main Falls Cottage (Tariff: ₹770) belongs to the Courtallam Panchayat and has to be booked at their office (Tel: 283128). It’s worth the effort just for the superb location right next to the falls. The Township Office also does bookings for Malligai and Rose rest houses (Tariff:  ₹770).

When to go July to September Air Nearest airport: Thiruvanan thapuram Rail Nearest rail: Tenkasi