Dolphins somersaulting in the Chambal, slack-jawed crocodiles turning longingly from the shoreline towards an approach ing bat, Pinocchio-snouted-glass-eyed baby gharials and leather-backed river turtle cooling off at the nursery pool at an eco farm, the badlands of the once-dreaded Chambal ravines and a 400-year-old temple set along a lotus-filled pond – that’s just the half of the erstwhile princely state of Dholpur.
THING TO SEE AND DO
Dholpur’s geographic setting is part of its unique charm and importance. Strategically positioned by the waters of the Chambal, Dholpur was once a much-coveted milestone for raiders from the north intent on conquering the riches of Malwa and Gwalior.
Raj Niwas Palace Tour
Set in 13 lush acres, the Raj Niwas Palace Hotel at Dholpur is a lovely place for holidays with the family, but it’s also the perfect getaway for couples – honeymooning or otherwise, heritage and history buffs or even artists and writers longing for a bit of private space, quiet and solitude. The scion of the erstwhile royal houses of both Dholpur and Gwalior, Dushyant Singh has striven hard to return the dilapidated palace to its former glory.
There are the fabled tiles of the Dholpur palace to be enjoyed in all their majestic splendour. Every room serves up a captivating confection of extensive European tile work (Dutch in particular), beautifully matched with its opulent décor, which really sets Dholpur’s sumptuous Raj Niwas Palace apart from the cavalcade of palaces in Rajasthan. Dholpur also has some of the finest pearls in the world, though they are, of course, locked away safely.
The Euro-Indo-inspired ensemble of its outward trappings is reflected in a glorious mélange of accoutrements within. The glittering great hall, a formal drawing room, is a gorgeous assemblage of period furniture, sparkling mirrors, silken curtains, lavish carpets, stunning Belgian glass chandeliers and gilded picture frames that have captured its past beautifully.
Concealed behind a modest door out of the Great Hall awaits a truly unexpected and magical experience. Instead of what should have been a staid and stifled stairway up to the period-style sleeping chambers above, you are met by an astonishing sight. From floor to ceiling, on either side of the beautifully polished high vaulting stairway are vividly painted panels, of an array of playful avifaunal creatures set amid sprays of foliage. The stairway languidly opens up to the luxurious high-ceilinged Maharaja Suite.
The lavish guestrooms, a palette of pleasing shades, are home to Japanese ceramic urns, four-posters, exquisite mirrors, ancient bathtubs and art nouveau light fixtures. But again what takes your breath away is the flam boyant use of tiles, a rich mélange of cobalt and ochre from floor to ceiling.
Macchkund Temple
Located about 4-6 km from the palace, this ancient shrine is set along a lotus-filled pond. Along the banks of the pond is a string of minor shrines and temples, over 400 years old.
Van Vihar WLS
The once bustling shooting lodge of the Dholpur royals, now a notified wildlife sanctuary is located 25 km from the palace. Clamber up to the terrace to take in the views of the lotus-filled lake.
Talab Shahi
About 13 km from the palace is the Khanpur Mahal hunting lodge built by Emperor Akbar in 1617. Situated next to a lake, it is a must for birding enthusiasts in winter.
Chambal Ravines and River Run
About 4 km from the palace, the Chambal offers thrilling boat rides. Enjoy dolphin sightings and crocodile spotting here. About 22 km away, gharials and crocodiles from the Chambal are being conserved at the eco farm at Devri. The resort also arranges camel tours of the Chambal ravines, now safe for visitors.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
Raj Niwas Palace Hotel (Cell: 07665002151; Tariff: ₹7,500-15,000, with meals) has a choice of eight heritage suites in the main palace. Of these, three are luxury and five are deluxe suites. Additionally, there are 20 pool villas wrapped around the lush lawns with peacocks strutting around. The resort also has a spa.
The food at the sprawling period dining room in the main palace is fresh, homely and nutritious. If you want breakfast on the lawns or a private candlelight dinner by the poolside the staff will be happy to put it together for you.
When to go Winter (November to February) is best Location In eastern Rajasthan, about 4 km from the Chambal river, an hours drive from the Taj Mahal, Dholpur is near the border of Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh Air Nearest airport: Agra Rail Nearest rail: Dholpur