Diu: The Lightness of Being

Time seems to halt in Diu, the idyllic coastal town kissing the Arabian Sea. It’s this old-world charm, unbroken by the odd cyber café, which gives Diu its character.

Diu’s white and golden beaches are unspoilt, lovely and relatively quiet. This speck of land is far away from any major town, and that should explain why being in Diu is such pure bliss.

ORIENTATION

Diu has two points of entry: the bridge at Ghoghla, closer to Una, and another at Tad. If coming from Una, Ahmedpur Mandvi will be the last village in Gujarat, and it shares the beach with Diu’s Ghoghla Village. Buses cross the bridge after Ghoghla and drop you off at the Jethibai Bus Terminus, close to Bunder Chowk. From the chowk, a road leads left into the old town to the fort. Moving west of the town, you pass Naida Village, followed by Fudam, Malala, Nagoa and Vanakbara. Getting around Diu is best done by autorickshaw (₹50 minimum fare; ₹500 for 3-4 hours of sightseeing).

BEACH WATCH

Diu’s entire 17-km long coastline is technically a beach, but Nagoa, Ghoghla, Jallandar, Chakratirth and Gomtimata are its main stretches of sand. Ghoghla and Nagoa beaches are the best places for swimming and water sports. The other beaches are not very safe.

Bunder Gate

Soumik Kar

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Diu has a range of attractions, from an old fort to churches and beaches.

Ghoghla Beach

Ghoghla is the best beach in Diu, and yet the least popular – perhaps because it’s part of the mainland and has only three hotels. The sea at Ghoghla is safe for swimming, and you also have a choice of water sports here. There’s a water scooter (₹300), speedboat (₹250), parasailing on the beach (by car, ₹800), parasailing on the sea (by powerboat, ₹1,200) and water skiing (₹500). All rates are per person per kilometre. Adventure Water Sports (Contact Dharmendra P; Cell: 09879697975, 09925697975; W adventurewatersports.in), the agency providing the facility, also offers a sea trip to the Diu Fort and the island fort of Panikotha near it. For a 2-seater motorboat they charge ₹3,000 while for a 10-seater the tariff is also ₹3,000. A still more enjoyable outing could be the dolphin trip (₹6,000 per trip for 6 pax), offered early in the morning. Banana rides (6-seater) are ₹450 per person, jet skiing (2-seater) ₹400 per person, snorkelling Rs. 500 per head per hour and scuba diving ₹2,000 for a 3-day course.

Façade of St Paul Church

Soumik Kar

Old Town

If you enter the old quarter of Diu through the high city wall on the west, you will find quaint houses lining the narrow street. Of these, Nagar Seth’s Haveli is the finest. Not far from the haveli stands the Church of St Francis of Assisi, which was built in 1593. The Gothic St Thomas’ Church built in 1598 is another imposing sight and serves as a museum of Portuguese relics. It’s open from 8.00 am to 6.00 pm, and there’s no entry fee. St Paul’s Church is counted amongst the finest churches in India. From the church, you can head to the Diu Fort (Timings: 8.00am-5.00pm).

Jallandar and Chakratirth beaches

Jallandar is a small beach with golden sands while Chakratirth is quite rocky. You cannot swim at the latter but what it does offer is the most spectacular sunset in Diu, seen from a hillock, aptly called Sunset Point.

Nagoa Beach

This is Diu’s only touristy beach and it’s beautiful in its own right. The waters are safe for swimming, and watersports are also available. The options include speedboat (₹100), jet skiing ₹200 per person and parasailing on the sea (by powerboat, Rs. 1,000). All rates are per person per kilometre. These services are provided by Dr Vijay (Tel: 02875-271456; Cell: 09426713797, 09824283546). You can also make your bookings through Adventure Water Sports (see p309 for contact details). There’s also a Shell Museum on Nagoa Beach, with over 2,000 types of seashells on display.

Museum Entry Adults ₹20, children ₹10 Timings 9.00am-5.30pm

Boats on the water, Ghoghla

Soumik Kar

Gomtimata Beach

For some reason – possibly its isolation – foreigners love this beach on Diu’s western extremity, close to the Vanakbara Jetty. However, you cannot swim here and the beach is quite narrow.

SHOPPING

Shopaholics can explore the Bunder Chowk area, which has export surplus shirts and shorts at affordable rates. One shop here that foreign tourists love is Pradip Bhai’s Sarjan Art Gallery (Tel: 02875-253993). It stocks shell jewellery and artefacts made by the local Sangheda community.

WHERE TO STAY

On Ghoghla Beach

Sugati Beach Hotel (Tel: 02875-252212; Tariff: ₹3,300-4,900) has an excellent location. The food here is good and the staff courteous. Magico do Mar (Tel: 252567; Tariff: ₹8,593 for 3N/ 2D, with two meals) stands across the Diu checkpost, in Gujarat’s Junagadh District. Built in 1937, it used to be the retreat of the Nawab of Junagadh. Hotel Sea View (Tel: 252371; Tariff: ₹2,250-2,850) is basic; AC available for extra cost.

On Nagoa Beach

Radhika Beach Resort (Tel: 275551-55; Tariff: ₹5,050-7,050) is close to the beach. Attractive villa-style rooms are set around a swimming pool. Hotel Gangasagar (Tel: 252249; Tariff: ₹1,500-2,500) is the only hotel on the beach in Nagoa. Rasal Beach Resort (Tel: 255402; Tariff: ₹3,500-4,000) is a bit away from Nagoa Chowpatty, but you can see the sea from your room. Resort Hoka (Tel: 275301/25; Tariff: ₹2,550-2,950) stands in a quiet, tree-lined lane away from the beach.

In Diu Town

Hotel Samrat (Tel: 252354; Tariff: ₹1,250-2,500), located near the vegetable market, is a popular hotel. Hotel Cidade de Diu (Tel: 254595; Tariff: ₹2,200-4,000) is located right behind Samrat.

Government Accommodation

Diu also offers two government circuit houses as well as eight cottages (Tariff: ₹400-1,200) for tourists. Circuit House-I (Tel: 252312) is on Jallandar Beach, and has 11 rooms. Jallandar Cottages (Tel: 255212) are further down the road. Circuit House-II (Tel: 252476), is near Diu Fort.

WHERE TO EAT

You will find bars or permit rooms everywhere in Diu. But food is a different matter altogether, and you will be better off sticking to the restaurants at the hotel where you are staying.

At Ghoghla Beach, Magico do Mar is famous for its seafood platter. Sugati’s Prato Delicioso restaurant serves excellent Goan curry and mocktails.

At Nagoa Beach, try tandoori prawns at Radhika’s Riviera restaurant. While seafood is a common speciality of all the hotels in Diu, their restaurants are multicuisine, with Punjabi dishes being the surprise winners.

When to go November to February Location A small island off the coast of Gujarat in the Arabian Sea Air Nearest airport: Diu Airport Rail Nearest rail: Veraval, Delwada