Drukpa Kargyud Festival

This elaborate Ladakhi Buddhist Festival celebrates the Dkukpa lineage of Tibetan Buddhism

Monks in colourful costumes perform the traditional cham dance
Drukpa Kargyud Festival
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Type Religious Festival   Time July   Location Hemis, Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir

All of Ladakh seems to come alive during the annual Drukpa Kargyud Festival, which takes place in July. The festival celebrates the Drukpa Kargyud lineage – widely seen as a representation of endangered Tibetan Buddhism – and this remote Himalayan outpost is reaffirming its committment to the preservation of this ancient religion. Hemis, Ladakh’s richest and most famous monastery, leads the celebrations but much of the action takes place at Shey, the capital of the old Ladakhi kingdom some 20km from Leh. Followers of the Drukpa sect converge from all parts of Ladakh at Shey, as do Buddhists from neighbouring Kinnaur, Bhutan, and even Taiwan and Japan.

Amongst the four major Buddhist sects of Ladakh, the Drukpa is also one of the oldest, founded in 1206 CE by Tsangpa Gyare, regarded as the first Gyalwang Drukpa. The monasteries of Hemis, Stakna, Chemdrey and Shey are amongst those that practise this form of Buddhism. Tibetan Buddhism in Ladakh today flourishes much as it used to in medieval times. In the open-air quadrangle behind the new Naropa Palace in Shey, crowds of Ladakhis in traditional festive robes settle in uneven order to witness cham, the age-old monastic dances that symbolise the vanquishing of evil. The stately gonchas (traditional Ladakhi robes), the ornate peraks (head-pieces worn by women) or the cries of delight on being blessed by an incarnate lama are not for show. Nor are the wild shudderings of the oracle, who has come from Kinnaur. It’s all part of an ancient tradition, flourishing virtually unadulterated till today.

Oblivious to the sunscreen-smothered, Nikon-wielding foreign tourists, Drukpa followers join enthusiastically in the prayers being held to mark the occasion. The organisers have also taken this opportunity to establish a museum at Hemis monastery, which houses all its precious artefacts under one roof. There are also archery and dance performances from different parts of Ladakh, Bhutan and Tibet.

Where to stay and eat

You can opt to stay in Leh, which is 20km from Hemis. The Shambha-La (Tel: 01982-251100, 253500; Tariff: 4,500–8,000), is a good option. Grand Dragon (Tel: 257786, 255866, 255266, Cell: 09906986782; Tariff: 12,100–20,350) in Sheynam, is a luxury hotel. J&K Tourism’s Tourist Bungalow (Tel: 252297, 252094; Tariff: 800–1,500) near the airport is pleasant and comfortable.

One of Leh’s best places to eat is Lala’s Café in the Old Town. The Kashmiri food at Budshah Inn, the pizzas at Il Forno, steak with chips at Leh View Rooftop Restaurant and the sandwiches at La Terrasse are delicious. Try the Ladakhi breakfast at Dzomsa on Fort Road. Gesmo serves good local food.

THE INFORMATION

Tourist Office

l J&K Tourism

Tourist Reception Centre, Leh

Cell: 09596348845

STD code 01982

GETTING THERE

Air Leh is served by Jet and Air India from Delhi and Srinagar

Rail Nearest railhead is Jammu Tawai (724km/ 18hrs)

Road You can get to Leh either from Srinagar via Zojila Pass or Manali by the Rohtang Pass. You can also hire taxis from Srinagar or Manali. Take local trans­port/ motorbikes to Hemis Bus JKTDC and HPTDC have buses from Srinagar and Manali. These routes are open only from June–October