The first time I visited Eravikulam, it seemed like I had entered another world. We were a group of botanists, looking for wild flowers found only on the south Indian hilltops. The terrain was tough and it had started pouring. The path along which I was walking was narrow, muddy and slippery and although I had desperately tried to keep my balance, I had still tumbled down into a pool of water. I was wet from head to toe, plastered with mud, shivering in the cold wind and bleeding from leech bites. Yet, when I looked around me, all I could feel was a heady happiness: there, stretching in every direction, waves of grassy hillocks lying in an unbroken sheet of green. Criss-crossing this grassland were many streams, and the exquisite wild flowers that we finally found, were so many in number that we tip-toed on the grass, fearing we might squish them.
The grasslands of Eravikulam are called ‘climax’ grasslands because scientists believe that they represent the culmination of evolution – having reached the most perfect state of harmony possible. Interspersed in these vast stretches of grass are little pockets of sholas, the Tamil word for forest, which are storehouses of vitality. Diverse life forms, like orchids, flourish on these trees, while the undergrowth shelters many animals. Names such as ‘bear shola’ and ‘tiger shola’ indicate the kind of inhabitants these sholas have been known to support, though, of course, bears and tigers are rarely seen now.
This grassland with its hills and rocks is home to the Nilgiri tahr, an endangered mountain goat seen in small numbers in parts of South India. Called varai aadu (hill goat), one can see them in the early hours of the morning or in the evening, feeding on shrubs. We were lucky to see a small herd from a distance, mysteriously appearing and disappearing in the rising mist. The ease and speed with which these goats negotiated the slippery rocks, made me wonder if they were somehow exempt from the laws of gravity!
ABOUT ERAVIKULAM NATIONAL PARK
Once a hunting preserve of British planters and officers, the forest tract of Eravikulam-Rajamallay was declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1975. In 1978, it was made a national park. The primary purpose of this park, spread over 97sq km, is to protect the Nilgiri tahr. The undulating grasslands encompass Anamudi, which, at an altitude of 2,690m, is peninsular India’s highest peak. The area receives abundant rainfall in the monsoon season and in winter, especially at night, when the temperatures fall below freezing point.
ORIENTATION
The tourism zone is located at Rajamallay, to the southwest of the park, on the Munnar-Udumalpet Road (SH17). From the main road, a smaller estate road leads you 5km to the Rajamallay checkpost. Entry tickets can be purchased at this checkpost. Thereafter, the visitor can walk along the road, keeping an eye out for the tahr. Most visitors walk for about a kilometre along this road. A little above the Rajamallay checkpost is an Interpretation Centre – tourists can walk only a kilometre from here. Tourists are not permitted into the core area. As it’s the habitat of an endangered animal, tourists are expected to follow certain rules, including maintaining silence.
◆ Entry Indian Adults ₹90; Children ₹65; Foreigners ₹370 Timings 8.00am–4.30pm
THINGS TO DO
There’s very little for the visitor to do here apart from taking a walk in Rajamallay. It’s a haven for bird-watchers as well. Do remember that picnicking is discouraged here for fear of pollution.
The Walk
Walking amongst tahrs is quite an experience. These animals used to be baited in the Rajamallay area with salt, a practice that has now been discontinued. Today, tahrs seem to have lost their wildness and are almost tame. They have become habituated to tourist presence.
Birds and Flowers
Even if you don’t see the tahr, there are many other features that vie for your attention. You can find plenty of wild flowers, including terrestrial orchids on the hillsides, as you walk along the road. Birdwatchers can keep an eye out for avifauna such as the green imperial pigeon and the emerald dove, various fly-catchers, warblers, wagtails, pipits, babblers and thrushes. The Interpretation Centre is worth a visit. It has a small collection of wildlife exhibits, photos and books on birds and animals; the latter is on sale.
WHERE TO STAY
Munnar has good hotels for all budgets. Since tourists stream into Munnar throughout the year, it’s advisable to reserve accommodation well in advance, especially on week-ends and holidays.
In Munnar
Perched high above the Kochi Road, 6km from Munnar, Windermere Resort (Tel: 04865-230512, 230978; Tariff: ₹8,000–18,000) offers char-ming cottages, some planters’ villas and lots of privacy. It is amongst the best hotels in Munnar.
Located just a kilometre from town, KTDC’s Tea County (Tel: 230969, 230460; Tariff: ₹7,000–12,500) offers a restaurant, beer parlour, a health club and is one of the top-rung resorts in Munnar.
Picturesquely located on a sheer hillside 2km from Munnar, Abad Copper Castle (Tel: 231201/ 02; Tariff: ₹4,500–5,500) is set away from the bustle of the town. It has a multi-cuisine restaurant and also an Ayurvedic rejuvenation centre.
Blackberry Hills Retreat & Spa (Tel: 232978/ 79; Tariff: ₹6,800–10,000) has 16 cottages spread across a slope, on Bison Valley Road. Situated beside the Muthirapuzha river in an unobtrusive corner of the town, West Wood Riverside (Tel: 230884/ 86; Tariff: ₹3,750–5,600) is a fairly new hotel offering well-furnished rooms and a multi-cuisine restaurant.
Edassery Eastend (Tel: 230451; Tariff: ₹3,250–8,000) has 112 rooms and a multi-cuisine restaurant. Isaac’s Residency (Tel: 230501/ 04; Tariff: ₹4,000–8,000) overlooks the town, just off the road to Top Station. The facilities include a restaurant, beer parlour, coffee shop and Internet.
Flanked by the Muthirapuzha river, the planters’ High Range Club (Tel: 230253/ 724; Tariff: ₹2,700–4,300) with its colonial ambience and old-world charm is ensconced in sylvan surroundings. It boasts a 9-hole golf course, tennis courts, an indoor squash court, a gymnasium, a well-stocked library, an impressive collection of shikar trophies and other relics from its hoary past.
The Woodbriar Group’s Tallayar Valley Bungalow (Cell: 09442202001/ 02; Tariff: ₹7,513–14,234, with meals) nestles within the huge Tallayar Tea Plantation on the outskirts of Munnar, in the shadow of the ‘dumb’ mountain, Oomamalai, to which they take their guests for trekking. It provides efficient serves and scores on the food.
WHERE TO EAT
Munnar is dotted with a host of small eateries. Although these do look rather unimpressive, they dish out wholesome, cheap fare: sizzling vadas, bondas and bhajis, washed down with a cup of strong, aromatic tea. If you would like to dine alfresco, the thattukadas (fast food stalls) on the main road serve piping hot chappatis, puris and dosas.
Rapsy Restaurant and Hotel Hazrath, two popular eateries in the middle of town, serve excellent chicken and mutton biryanis. For purists seeking authentic Keralite food, the SN Lodge is perhaps the best bet. Their non-vegetarian thali includes many dishes, including the pungent mango pickle, served here as an appetizer.
Sarvana Bhavan, known all over the country for its palatable and satisfying vegetarian fare, is located on MG Road at the heart of the bustling town. SN Annexe is also a good option for the vegetarians. Silverspoon has a good buffet spread. Birds’ Café offers a great choice of Indian, Chinese, Continental and Kerala cuisine. The High Range Club, with its rather colonial aura, offers typical English food. However, a minimum notice of four hours is required to eat here.
FAST FACTS
When to go Open throughout the year except for a certain period between January and March, when the calving period of the Nilgiri tahr begins. Specific dates of the park’s closure can be accessed from W eravikulam.org. Best sightings are from September to October when the climate is pleasant
Wildlife/ Forest Dept Office
Office of the Wildlife Warden
Eravikulam NP, Munnar PO-685612
Tel: 04865-231587
STD code 04865
GETTING THERE
State Kerala
Location In Idukki District; straddling the high ranges of the southern Western Ghats
Distance 155km NE of Kochi, 15km N of Munnar
Route from Kochi NH49 to Munnar; state road to Eravikulam National Park
Air Nearest Airport: Cochin International Airport, Nedumbassery (121km/ 4hrs). Prepaid taxi (Tel: 0484-610115 extn: 2107) to Munnar will cost between ₹2,800–Rs. 3,084
Rail Nearest Railhead: Ernakulam Junction (127km/ 4hrs)
Road NH49 links Munnar with Kochi (128km) to the west and Madurai (152km) to the east, taking you through picturesque forests Munnar is also connected to Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu via Pollachi and Udumalaipettai. The 60-km-stretch of NH49 to Munnar is quite tortuous and it is advisable to carry medication for motion sickness Bus Munnar’s Bus Stand (Tel: 04865-230201), located at the edge of the town, is served by KSRTC and private buses from both Kerala and Tamil Nadu. The hill station is well connected to Thiruvananthapuram, Kottayam, Alappuzha, Kochi, Thrissur, Kozhikode and more