Zooming in on one of Ladakh’s more endearing creatures — the weasellike Himalayan marmot — I clicked. Only to find that the frame was blank. The reluctant model had simply gone down his burrow. Thankfully, there were many more obliging animals. For, Tso Kar, which is the lower region of the Changthang Plateau, is marmot country. I saw marmots sunbathing, others chattering in their burrows and the undecided ones standing half inside their homes and half outside. Yet some others opted for the classic marmot pose: standing up on their hind legs. “There are many from where I come too, the Pangong Tso area,” the driver, Dorjee, told me, in a tone suggesting that my enthusiasm was slightly over the top. But I was to display more of it unbridled at the sight of Tso Kar’s leading beauty.
Driving back from the plains of Tso Kar, the smallish figure of an animal ambled into my binocular-aided vision. As we drove closer, the speck grew larger. It was the beautifully framed kiang or the Tibetan/ Asiatic wild ass. It grazed on contentedly, only watching us from the corner of his eye. A good-looking animal that’s considered closer to a horse than an ass, the big-head kiang can weigh anything between 250 and 380 kg. In winter, it’s said to add 10 extra kilos to its considerable weight. Kiang — there are about 2,000 of them in Ladakh — usually live in herds but sometimes, a single one strays away from the herd and takes on the duty of a guard. Away from the herd, the single kiang is quite bold and willing to approach people. The one we saw undoubtedly donned the guard’s role.
The kiang can be found throughout eastern and northern Ladakh, but the plains of Tso Kar are your best bet. In fact, considering the difficulties in sighting animals in Ladakh’s tough terrain, the relative abundance of animals in Tso Kar is a welcome relief.
Perhaps that was why I felt a thrill even as we drove around the rolling plains of Tso Kar, not quite knowing how to get to the famed lake in the Changthang reserve. For Dorjee too, it was his first trip this side of the Indus. When we finally reached Tso Kar, the lake’s sparkling waters held the magic image of the clouds above and the mountains around. I clicked photos of the scattered, cotton-like clouds on an endless stretch of blue without a break. The salt around the lake seemed to be the perfect icing to this picture-postcard image.
As we marvelled at the view, a group of 20 brahminy ducks quacked in agreement. Another large group of at least a hundred brown-headed gulls flew overhead. The area is actually famous for the graceful, black-necked crane, the Grus nigricollis. A tall grey bird with a black neck, head and tail, its red crown turns a shade deeper whenever it is excited. Apart from Tso Kar, it’s also seen in
Pangong, to the north of Tso Kar, is like a magic lake in a fairy tale that changes colour every minute. You reach the lake after hours of driving in a landscape marked by extreme contrasts — first snow-tipped mountains and then what looks like sand dunes in a forbidding desert.
South of Tso Kar lies another of Ladakh’s famed lakes, Tso Moriri. The sapphire blue of its waters stunningly contrasts the barren mountains. In winter, Tso Moriri is a pool of stillness. The lake freezes, the migratory birds take off and many species go into hibernation. Summer brings life back to Tso Moriri.
In recent years, tourist influx in the region has risen dramatically, from a couple of hundred in 1996 to a few thousand in 2000. The increased tourist activity has been a cause for concern, prompting WWF-India to launch a conservation initiative with the local community of Korzok Village, nestled in the western part of the lake. The area is home to the Changpa nomads, who move across the Changthang plains with their herds in rhythm with the seasons.
As we made our way out of this vast plateau of unparalleled majesty, we saw a horned lark sitting on a carpet of mauve flowers singing what I would like to imagine was a farewell song. The setting was so beautiful that I decided at once to return, sometime soon.
ORIENTATION
The Changthang Cold Desert Wildlife Sanctuary stretches over an expanse of 4,000 sq km, at altitudes between 14,000 to 19,000 ft. It has deep gorges and vast plateaus. The temperature varies between 25ºC and -40ºC. The area is sparsely populated by nomads, with their herds of yak and goat, living a harsh existence.
Within the sanctuary area lie Tso Moriri (14,432 ft), Tso Kar (14,949 ft) and Pangong Tso (14,764 ft). Tso Kar (185 km) and Tso Moriri (220 km) lie south-east of Leh. North of Tso Moriri and Tso Kar and east of Leh lies Pangong Tso (154 km). It is remarkable how different the three lakes are and how each experience varies.
Sanctuary entry fee ₹50
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Ladakh has some of the most spectacular lake views in the world. And the Changthang Cold Desert WLS offers you the best chance to soak in these views. The most convenient way to visit Tso Kar is to tie it up with a trip to Tso Moriri. You could also do a jeep safari to all the three lakes (Pangong Tso included) over a period of 4-5 days. Note that you need an Inner Line Permit to visit the region.
Pangong Tso
One-third of this 6,500-hectare wide lake lies in Ladakh, while the rest falls in Tibet. The setting of the lake provides a splendid paradox — clear blue waters of astonishing beauty set against the backdrop of vast expanses of brown, cold desert. The dazzling spectacle of the shifting spectrum of colours of the lake’s waters is one of the most exciting features of Pangong. The marshlands along its western end are an important breeding area for a number of waterfowl, including the endangered bar-headed geese. The Asiatic wild ass, as also the yak and the chiru, are found in the surrounding hills. It’s possible to visit Pangong Tso in a tiring day trip from Leh, but it’s a far better experience to stay the night and enjoy the solitude of the lake early morning, when the hordes have yet to arrive. Plenty of guest houses are available.
Tso Kar
The Tso Kar Basin is a freshwater lake. The area of water has contracted into two principal water bodies — Startsapuk Tso, a brackish lake in the south, and Tso Kar, a saline lake. The basin is a major breeding area for great crested grebe, brahminy duck, bar-headed goose, brown-headed gull and common tern. The Tso Kar plains are also kiang territory.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
Pasturland Camp (Tariff: ₹3,740-4,180, with meals), near the lake, with 10 tents is a good camping option here. Bookings can be made through Camps of Ladakh (Delhi Tel: 011-40580334-35, Mobile: 09419178325). The tents have attached bath, provide hot water and oxygen cylinders. Travel operators at Leh can also provide you with tents and other camping equipment.
Tso Moriri
Tso Moriri is the third high-altitude Trans-Himalayan lake. High mountain ranges with peaks towering over 18,000 ft stand guard to its north and east, including two of the highest mountains in Ladakh. Stretching over 19 km with a maximum width of about 7 km, springs and snowmelt feed the lake and create extensive marshes around it. The area forms the Tso Moriri Wetland Conservation Reserve and has been recognised as a Ramsar site — ie a wetland of international importance for wildlife conservation. Along with the Tso Kar wetlands, it is the only breeding ground of the bar-headed goose in India. It’s also the only place outside of China where the endangered black-necked crane breeds. The small islands near the north and south ends of the lake serve as breeding areas for waterfowl including the barheaded geese and ruddy shelduck (a large duck). The surrounding plains not only support domestic livestock but are also home to groups of kiang.
The tiny village of Korzok constitutes the only permanent settlement on the lake. The Korzok Gompa houses beautifully restored paintings and offers great views of Tso Moriri. The most spectacular of the many walks out of Korzok is to the plains of Kyangdom. The 14-km walk is best done over two days, with a stop at the Kele campsite. You’ll see lots of wildlife, including black-necked crane and kiang. Mules can be hired at Korzok for ₹100-150 a day.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
From May to September, Leh tour operators provide tented accommodation in Korzok Village near the lake. There are some homestays and guest houses here, but they are a bit grim. The Tso Moriri Camps (Delhi Tel: 011-22720677; Tariff: ₹4,350-4,850, with all meals), offering 15 deluxe tents, is by far the nicest place to stay. The Yak Camp (Tariff: ₹3,200, with meals) is located close to the lake, has beautiful views and offers good food. Book these camps through Dreamland Trek and Tour (Leh Tel: 01982-257784, Mob: 09858060607). Nomadic Life Camp (Mob: 0990622987; Tariff: ₹3,300, with meals) offers 17 tents with attached bath. There is also Lakeview Guest House (Tel: 01982-264867: Tariff: ₹600-800) with 6 double rooms and 3 single rooms. You could also try Mentok Lodge (Mob: 09419810451; Tariff: ₹300-600), with 4 rooms. Great views of Tso Moriri can be had from the rooms.
Hanle
The Ladakhi village of Hanle lies in the valley of the same name, perched on a lonely desolate hill in the Changthang plains, close to the Chinese border. Hanle lies along what was once the ancient trade route between Lhasa and Leh via Rudok. Hanle is also home to the massive Hanle Gompa, of the Drukpa Kagyu school, built by King Sengye Namgyal. A footnote of Ladakhi history was written at Hanle when Sengye died here while returning to Leh from Tibet.
But neither of these is Hanle’s chief claim to fame. This remote village houses a hot spot for international astronomers — the Indian Astronomical Observatory. Situated at 14,820 ft, it’s the highest observatory in the world. For astronomers, the observatory’s height is crucial since the higher you go, the lesser the aberrations caused by the Earth’s atmosphere. Coupled with the very clear nights with low water vapour and the light, pollution-free environment, remote Hanle is an ideal site for the facility. Astronomers always aspire to site their best instruments in locations where few humans would want to tread, to enjoy telescopic vision unhampered by suspended particulate matter and smog. Hanle is certainly one place in the cold Changthang few people venture to. It takes a good 10 hours of steady driving from Leh to reach this village, by driving east along the Indus from Leh past Mahe Bridge to Nyoma. Hanle is 70 km from Nyoma, but in a restricted area beyond the remit of Inner Line permits. Only ‘connections’ will get you there.
With Pallava Bagla in Hanle
High above the pure blue waters of Tso Moriri in the Rupshu valley tower two of Ladakh’s highest peaks — Lungser Kangri and Chamser Kangri. Chamser Kangri, at 21,726 ft (6,622m) is the third-highest peak in Ladakh and also a fairly easy one to climb. You just need to be fit and well acclimatised. This isn’t a trekking peak, so you will need to pay the requisite peak fees and obtain permission from The Indian Mountaineering Foundation (Leh Contact Sonam Wangyal, Mobile: 09697459678; Delhi Tel: 011-24111211 Website: indmount.org), apart from an Inner Line Permit. A day’s walk from Korzok to the eastern shore of Tso Moriri and a little limb brings you to a grassy slope called Kurchyu, which is the base camp. The next day an Advanced Base Camp is made on a high plateau, and the next two days are kept in hand for summit attempts. The peak is usually climbed by the southern ridge, up steep snow and scree slopes. The views from the top are magnificent. To the east lies the Indus valley and to the west, Tso Moriri. No wonder ‘chamser’ means to genuflect — a view like that is worthy of worship.
Dreamland Trek and Tour (Tel: 01982- 257784, Mobile: 09858060607) in Leh charges ₹53,300 per person for an allinclusive package for minimum 4 people for the 10 day expedition. Permit fee is extra. It works out to ₹14,000-15,000 per head.
Drop the shawl, save the toosh
The beautiful, soft, warm and lightweight shahtoosh shawl is widely coveted. Collected from the under-fur of chiru, the Tibetan antelope, shahtoosh is considered to be one of the finest animal fibres in the world. But few realise that on an average 3- 4 chirus need to be killed to make one shawl, which in the international market commands anything between $3,000- 10,000 per piece. The chiru dies because of the method of collection of its under-fur. Outside southern Tibet, Ladakh’s Changthang plain is the only place where this delicate creature is found. Traditionally, the wool used to be collected by the Changpa in both Ladakh and Tibet, fostered by the Kashmiri shawl industry. India’s current Tibetan antelope population is claimed to be about 200 — or roughly 50 shawls. Trade in shahtoosh is now strictly banned in India, but poachers don’t care. Take the chiru’s side and say no to shahtoosh.
THE INFORMATION
Location Panoramic and colourful, remote and mystical, the three great high-altitude lakes of Ladakh are an unmatched experience of beauty, geography, ecology and culture. All three lakes — Pangong Tso (14,764 ft), Tso Moriri (14,432 ft) and Tso Kar (14,949 ft) — lie southeast of Leh within Ladakh’s Changthang Cold Desert Sanctuary, which stretches over some 4,000 sq km, at altitudes between 14,000 to 19,000 ft. Ladakh’s Changthang is the western fringe of the Great Changthang Plateau of Tibet. It has deep gorges and vast plateaus, sparsely populated by nomads
Distance from Leh Pangong Tso 170 km, Tso Moriri 240 km and Tso Kar 211 km
When to go May-late Oct. Check road conditions with your hotel or operators
Permits An Inner Line Permit is needed from the District Commissioner’s (DC) office in Leh (Polo Grounds, Leh Tel: 01982-252010; Fax: 252106) to visit the Changthang region. This is arranged easily through your tour operator/ hotel. Foreign visitors must carry their passport and visa in original; Indians need a copy of residence and ID proof
Tourist office
J&K Tourism, Assistant Director, Tourism, Leh, Tel: 01982-252297, 252094/ 05, Mobile: 09419301530, Website: jktourism.org
Getting There Hiring a taxi from Leh is the best way of getting to these lakes. Go with a tour operator. For Pangong Tso (170 km/5 hrs from Leh), taxi charges ₹7,150 for a day trip and ₹8,600 for an overnight trip (transport only). Tso Moriri and Tso Kar are usually clubbed together in a two- or three-day trip from Leh. Taxi charges ₹12,150 for a three-day trip (transport only; permit, tents and food cost extra). From Leh to Tso Moriri (240 km) it takes 6 hrs and it’s another 3 hrs from Tso Moriri to Tso Kar. The drive back from Tso Kar to Leh (211 km) joins the Manali-Leh Highway and takes 7 hrs. Tso Kar can also be visited from Leh as a diversion from this highway. Contact: Leh Taxi Union (Tel: 01982 -252723, 253039, Mobile: 09419178223)
Package rates A Pangong Tso day trip package with packed lunch costs ₹1,837 per person (4 pax). Tso Moriri-Tso Kar 2N/ 3D costs ₹6,625 per person (4 pax) all-inclusive