Guhagar: The Sea of Stories

All day long, the waves crash against the shore. The beach is mostly empty, and the casuarinas lining its clean stretch shut out the din of the world almost entirely. Sitting on the cool, quiet sand, you find it easy to imagine that Guhagar is a tiny village and not the bustling town-in-the-making that it actually is. And indeed, till Enron came, Guhagar was just another blip on the endless Maharashtrian coastline. As the taluka headquarter and the site of the Wyadeshwar Shiva Temple, it was considered more important than most other villages nearby, but was nowhere close to being a tourist hotspot. The controversial Enron project brought people to the town, and with people came the other tourist trappings: hotels, lodges and eateries. Today, Enron is gone but Guhagar has shaken off its village image. Nearby Velneshwar, with its quiet beach, fishing village, an old temple and bobbing boats, now holds claim to that worthy title.

A lighthouse near Gopalgarh Fort, Anjanvel

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Visit Guhagar for its pristine beach. Additional sites include a fort, temple and fishing village.

On the Beach

The beach’s chief attractions are the peace it offers and its unique tapering shape: its structure resembles a dune, sloping towards the village and the sea. It is also mostly remarkably clean. Past this is the Chowpatty, with shops that come alive around sunset, when kulfi and camel rides are on offer. As you keep walking toward the sea, ascending the beach’s curve and thereafter descending its slope, you come across its cleanest stretches.

Other Attractions

The Wyadeshwar Shiva Temple looks newly built, with its cement plaster veneer, but locals claim the underlying structure is made of stone. The temple uniqueness lies in its panchayatan style of architecture, meaning that four subsidiary shrines surround the sanctum sanctorum. Guhagar’s favourite deity, however, is Ufarata Ganapati, a Ganesha idol found by fishermen three centuries ago.

From Guhagar, travellers can make an excursion to Gopalgarh Fort (13 km/ ₹300 by auto), and visit the Anj anvel fishing village there. The beach always has fishing boats under cons truction, usually a fascinating sight.

WHERE TO STAY

Just two minutes from the beach is The Durga Pearl (Cell: 09421705350; Tariff: ₹1,200–3,000), in Varcha Poat near the Durga Devi Temple, with spacious rooms. Also in Varcha Paat is Mody Villa (Mumbai Tel: 022- 65343394, Cell: 09892091313; Tariff: ₹2,000 per person, with meals).

Nisarg Resort (Cell: 09423373834; Tariff: ₹800–1,800) is a lovely Konkani home in Shivaji Chowk. Perched on a hillock, it is a 10-minute walk from the beach. Shantai by the Lake (Tel: 02359-205139, Cell: 09833273449; Tariff: ₹3,500–12,000) offers elegant cottages, rooms, a restaurant, pool and amazing views. Hotel Annapurna (Tel: 240412, 240512, Cell: 094230 48165; Tariff: ₹1,100–1,500) in Khaakha Paat is located close to the beach. Kismat Residency (Tel: 240686; Tariff: ₹700–1,500) is a short walk away from the bus terminus. The corner rooms have balconies.

WHERE TO EAT

Suruchi, a minute away from the Wyadeshwar Temple, serves excellent vegetarian food. The thalipeeth, sol kadi, idli and medu vada are all recommended. Nonvegetarians can head straight to Annapurna (Tel: 02356-240412; Cell: 09423048165), which serves spicy chicken and mutton dishes, apart from regular coastal specialities such as pomfret and prawns. Yogeshwari (Tel: 240542) near the police station and Vainateya (Tel: 240515), located near the temple, serve vegetarian Konkani food.