The small but vibrant town of Kalady is best known for its association with Adi Shankara, the founder of the Advaita School of thought within Hindu philosophy. His presence in this small town has been prominent since his birth in the 8th century.
Most of the buildings and structures in Kalady, both old as well as new, are associated with Adi Shankara, including the seven-storeyed Keerthi Sthamba, the Sringeri Mutt Complex and many modern schools and colleges. Kalady lies at the heart of a sacred circuit, and is known for being the spot where St. Thomas the Apostle paused to pray and rest on his way to Mylapore. It is also an important stop on the Sabarimala pilgrimage, the largest annual pilgrimage in India that is known to draw over 50 million devotees.
The most important of the many temples in and around Kalady are the beautiful Kallil Temple, located 22km from the main town, the Shiva Temple, or the temple of the ‘dancing white deer’ and the beautiful Kuzhippillykavu Jaladurga Temple at Perumbavoor, which is partially submerged during the monsoons.
The history of this beautiful and sacred town is intrinsically tied with the Periyar river. The subject of numerous popular songs, it is the second longest river in Kerala. Historically and culturally rich, Kalady has much to offer to the inquisitive traveller.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Kalady, Aluva, Malayattoor and Perumbavoor are all situated close to one another, linked by Kerala’s SH1 (Main Central Road) and NH47. As you approach Kalady from Angamaly on the Main Central Road, the Keerthi Sthambha is to the left, just before you enter the town. Half a kilometre ahead, to the left, lie the Sringeri Mutt Complex and Ramakrishna Ashram. The bus stand is one kilometre west of the latter. There is enough to see and do in and around Kalady to keep the visitor occupied for several days, and the town also makes for an interesting weekend getaway.
Sringeri Mutt Complex
The Sringeri Mutt Complex includes two temples built as a shrine to Adi Shankara. The first of these is the Shankara Temple, dedicated to Adi Shankara himself, celebrating the stories around his life and his teachings. The second, known as the Sringeri, is dedicated to the Goddess Sharada, the patron saint of the Sringeri Mutt.
This shrine, located on the banks of the Periyar (called Poorna locally) in Kalady, is an integral part of the culture around Adi Shankara’s life, which is celebrated in so many ways at Kalady. The Periyar river too is a part of the folklore around the shrine. The river’s discernible turn towards the shrine at Kalady, is attributed to Adi Shankara’s powers: it is said that he made the river curve so that his aged mother wouldn’t have to walk too far to bathe.
Another part of the Sringeri Mutt complex is the eight-sided Adi Shankara Janmabhumi Kshetram. Within the shrine, Adi Shankara is known as Dakshinamoorthy – the absolute teacher. Scenes from his life are illustrated on the walls opposite the central courtyard.
A shrine to Saradamba, the guardian deity of Sringeri, honours Shankara’s mother, Aryamba. This shrine is located between a niche in each facade of the outer walls, which house images of the Saptamatrukas or seven manifestations of Shakti. Between these two shrines also lies a shrine dedicated to Ganapati.
Timings 6.00am–1.00pm & 4.00– 8.00pm Tel 0484-2462350/ 2465922; Email sringerikalady@sify.com
Crocodile Ghat
The Crocodile Ghat, or the Muthala Kadavu, on the bank of the River Periyar earned its name from a myth associated with Adi Shankara. It is believed one day while bathing in the river, young Adi Shankara was caught by a crocodile who would not release him until he was allowed to become an ascetic. To the west of this temple is the ancient Sri Krishna Temple where Adi Shankara’s family is believed to have worshipped.
Timings 5.30–11.00am & 5.30– 7.30pm
Keerthi Sthambha
The Sri Adi Shankara Keerthi Stambha Mandapa is a towering structure that dominates the approach to the town of Kalady. On the inside of this massive structure are winding staircases which lead to a huge image of Adi Shankaracharya. The exterior offers an enticing view, all the more enchanting for the vista of green fields that surround it.
Location Main Central Road, less than a kilometre northwest of Kalady Town Timings 7.00am– 6.00pm Parking ₹10
Ramakrishna Ashram
Established in 1936, the Sri Ramakrishna Advaita Ashram is a simple prayer hall. It is replete with pictures of gods and prophets of all faiths, and a marble statue of the saint. This quiet ashram is set in a fragrant garden ruled by a spectacular Nagalinga, or cannon-ball, tree.
Location One kilometre east of the bus stand Timings 5.00am–12.30pm, 12 noon for a brief darshan & 3.308.30pm, Office and Book stall Timings 9.00am–12.30pm & 2.00–5.30pm, Closed Sunday Tel 0484-2462345/ 2461701 Email srkaakalady@gmail.com W ramakrishna-kaladysite.org
Perumbavoor
Some believe that Perumbavoor is the birthplace of Hanuman, a Hindu god connected with the Ramayana. While there is no trace of a Hanuman temple here, according to a local legend, while Hanuman was carrying the Mritasanjeevani Mountain to the Himalayas from Sri Lanka, he dropped a few chunks of the mountain at Perumbavoor. As a result, this area is associated with Ayurvedic practice.
Located 8km from Kalady along the Main Central Road, Perumbavoor is home to many temples, including the Kallil Temple and the Kuzhippillykavu Jaladurga Temple. The latter is dedicated to three different forms of Shakti – Durga, Saraswathy and Bhadrakali. The word kuzhippilli, which literally means ‘temple in a pit’, marks the unusual characteristic of this temple, which is built in such a way that it partially submerges during the monsoons.
Kallil Temple, Perumbavoor
The Kallil Devi Temple at Perumbavoor was originally a Jain temple, which like many Buddhist and Jaina structures was gradually assimilated into Hindu practice. The temple rewards those who climb to the top of its 120 steps with an extraordinary sight: the sanctum sanctorum appears to hang in midair, an illusion sustained by the overhanging rock. While attempts have been made to fill the gaps between the rock and the temple, they have been stalled by strong objections from the townsfolk. The rock-cut temple is regarded with pride by local people as a testament to the ingenuity of the human mind.
Timings 5.30–10.00am & 5.00– 7.30pm
St. Thomas Mount, Malayattoor
Malayattoor, which literally means the meeting place of land, mountain and river, lies 10km from Kalady. The hilltop at Kurisumudi, known as Malayatoor Hill, lay along the old caravan route to the ancient Chola kingdom. It is believed that in 52 CE, the Apostle St Thomas paused here on his missionary journey across South India, from Kodungallur to Mylapore on the east coast. A hostile reception forced him to spend his day in prayer atop the hill. In another version of the same myth, an anguished St Thomas emulated Jesus and deliberately went up the hill to converse with the lord. Upon touching the rock, blood sprang forth and Mary appeared to console him. Upon his descent, he baptised the people at the foot of the hill, before leaving for Mylapore where he was martyred in 72 CE. It is possible to climb to the top of Kurisumudi, where the St Thomas Archdiocesan Shrine was built in 900 CE.
Also on top of the hill is the Marthoma Mandapam, an ornate pavilion that holds the kalpadam or the knee-and footprints of St. Thomas. These are located 20 steps above the ground, symbolic of the 20 years that St. Thomas spent in South India. The Golden Cross, mounted on a pedestal and encased in its own enclosure in the mandapam, is said to have appeared on a rock where St. Thomas drew a cross with his finger. The Vatican has designated this church an international sanctuary, ranked amongst churches like the Lourdes in France. The church draws thousands of pilgrims during the Puthunjaya Festival on the first Sunday after Easter. Accommodation with basic amenities is available for pilgrims at the Pilgrim Centre.
Mass 6.00am, 5.30pm, Novena every Thursday before and after Mass Tel 0484-2468990/ 2283450/ 2283608 Email rectorintshmar@ gmail.com
Ambadathu Malika Ayappa Sannidhanam, Manjapra
The Ambadath Malika Ayappa Temple in Manjapra is a part of the Sabarimala Pilgrimage. Legend has it that Lord Ayappa deposited a bag of bhasmam, or sacred ash, here. This temple is private and open to the public only during selected periods and on specific days. During these periods, it is possible to climb to the third floor. Sabarimala pilgrims may stay here at no cost, and the temple can also arrange Astotram and Shanidosham pujas on request.
To get here, drive towards Manjapra from Kalady and turn left just before the police station. The Ambadathu Mansion is on the left, down the road.
Darshan Dates First Saturday of every Malayalam month, 15 November to 16 December, 1 January to 15 January Tel 04842284167, Cell 09447433039; malikayilayyappan.com
Karppillikavu Sri Mahadeva Temple, Manjapra
The Karppillikavu Sri Mahadeva Temple is said to date as far back as 2000 BCE. It is among 108 sivaksetras in India. Devotees here speak of an invisible tunnel stretching across 30km and connecting the temple well with a mythical temple with its own pond, set in a grove of trees of high medicinal value. This temple holds a number of feasts and festivals, including the eight-day Arattu Pooram festival. Held in the Makara month, the festival sees a gathering of people of all faiths. On the seventh day, seven elephants accompany the idol in a colourful procession through the town.
Timings 5.30–10.00am & 5.30– 7.30pm Tel 0484-2690190/ 2692488
W karppillikkavusreemahadeva temple.com
Elephant Kraal, Kodanad
The Elephant Kraal, or training camp, was built in Kodanad during the late 19th century, when the practice of capturing and training wild elephants was popular. Repaired in 1965 by the Forest Department, the kraal is now a centre for training elephants to log wood and perform temple duties. It is also believed to be the forest where the Pandava Bhima, from the Mahabharata, is said to have overcome the demon Bakasura.
The training of elephants is a long process that takes up to 20 years. The centre also trains mahouts, a job that is usually hereditary within the family. Kodanad is also an animal rescue centre, supporting the neighbourhood with capturing troublesome monkeys and housing sambar and spotted deer, birds and elephants. The kraal is a popular spot for school children, who spend the day riding the adult elephants, visiting the mini zoo and playing with the four baby elephants or taking rides. Early visitors may catch the elephants having a bath.
Location 13km from Kalady on the Main Central Road Entry ₹2 Timings 7.00am–6.00pm Elephant Ride ₹200
Mannapuram Shiva Temple, Aluva
The Mannappuram Temple is the host of a famous Shivaratri Festival, which attracts a huge crowd. Although the temple looks unfinished and haphazardly built from a distance, up close it becomes clear that the angles were carefully conceived and the pillars intricately positioned to give an illusion of incompleteness. This is meant to offer a lesson about how life looks haphazard until it is viewed from the proper angle; then, everything falls into place.
St. Dominic Syrian Church, Aluva
This church is best known for its annual feast on the third Sunday after Easter, which includes a procession with the statue of the Saint. They also hold a feast in honour of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary the Sunday after 8 December, which also involves a fantastic procession, complete with flowers and balloons.
Location Near Private Bus Stand Timings 7.30am–12.30pm & 2.30– 7.00pm Mass Daily 6.00am & 6.45am, Fridays 5.00pm, Sundays 6.30am, 8.30am & 5.00pm Tel 0484-2624361
WHERE TO STAY
A good option is Thani Illam (Tel: 0484-2649679, Cell: 09446389679, 09447369679; Tariff: ₹2,500, with meals), a heritage homestay in Thottuva, 9km from Kalady, across the Sankara Bride via Koovappady. Thani Illam’s rules are very clear: no smoking or drinking, no walking around improperly dressed, no room service. Though not everyone knows Thani Illam by that name. The right question to ask is, “Which way to the tharavad of Malayatoor Ramakrishnan?” Ramakrishnan, the Sahitya Akademi winning novelist and screenplay writer lived and worked in Thani Illam. His Verukal (Roots) drew on people living around him for its characters. The poet Vayalar composed many of his immortal songs while residing here.
At Thani Illam, visitors can stay either in a room inside or in a ‘kulapura’ constructed with materials from the 500-year-old ancestral home. After making alterations in their own home, Parameswaran and Saradammal set out to find similar places around Kerala. After some months of diligent travel, they now possess the finest and most complete data on illams and potential heritage homes in Kerala.
At Kalady, there are two guesthoues that have clean rooms with attached baths and western toilets, one in the Sringeri Mutt Complex (Tel: 04842462350, 2465922; Tariff: On request), the other in the Ramakrishna Ashram (Tel: 2462345; only for devotees and sadhus). Both require advance notice for stay and meals. Pooja Residency (Tel: 2465817; Tariff: ₹2,000–3,500) is a good option with Internet and a travel desk. Others include Green Park Hotel (Tel: 2464671, Cell: 094475-59768; Tariff: ₹1,500–2,500) and Kadambari Regency (Tel: 2698449, 2462772, Cell: 09847043443; Tariff: ₹1,300–1,700). Both have restaurants and Internet.
If you suffer from diabetes, arthritis, any eye-and-ear-related diseases and other afflictions, you may have a treatment holiday at the Nagarjuna Ayurveda Centre (Tel: 2463350, Cell: 09961845554; W nagarjunaayurveda.com; Tariff: ₹9,500–13,500), across the Sree Shankara Bridge from Kalady, in Okkal. It offers a huge range of Ayurvedic treatments and massages, guides, yoga and meditation, well-furnished AC rooms as well as airport transfers. The Kalady centre combines the old-world with the contemporary, allowing guests to stay in modern comfort while undergoing treatment.
WHERE TO EAT
Kalady offers many places to eat, for both fine luxurious dining and the shoestring budget. Ruby Restaurant offers standard multi-cuisine fare while the Lakshmi Bhavan Restaurant is a good option for vegetarians. At the more luxurious end there is Kadambari Regency on the Main Central Road and the restaurant at Pooja Residency, both of which offer good quality food.
Adi Shankara: The Philosopher Saint
Kalady’s identity is linked intricately that of Adi Shankara. Born at Kalady towards the end of the 8th century CE, he grew to be an important Hindu saint and philosopher. He was the only son of Sivaguru and Aryamba, a Namboodiri couple. When young Shankara completed his education in the Vedas at the age of 16, he decided to become a sanyasi, or ascetic, giving up all worldly pleasures and ties to his family.
Many legends surround this period of his life, including the story of the crocodile that refused to let him go until his mother gave him permission to become a sanyasi. Another story goes when Shankara was collecting alms as a young brahmachari (a brahmana student who wears the sacred thread), he came to the door of a very poor woman. Despite her poverty, she gave him the last piece of nellikai (gooseberies) that she had, inspiring Shankara to compose the powerful Kanakadhara Stotram (the ‘stream of gold’ prayer) and cause gold nellikais to raindown, rewarding the pious woman.
Although his was a short life of only 32 years, his contribution to what is now known as Hinduism is undeniable. Adi Shankaracharya, as he came to be known, traversed the length and breadth of India on foot. He established four mutts in the four corners of the country – Joshimath in the north, Puri in the east, Dwarka in the west and Sringeri in the south (see p238). These mutts are venerated as sanctuaries of Hindu dharma.
His devotional compositions and shlokas (verses of prayer) are considered divine. A vast body of work on Hindu theology, essays and treatises on the Vedas, the Brahmasutras and the Upanishads, is attributed to Shankara’s genius. His widely accepted treatise on the Bhagavad Gita is considered definitive and has shaped how the text is viewed in modern times. Adi Shankara also founded the Advaita school of Hindu philosophy. Towards the end of his life, Adi Shankara’s travels took him to Lake Manasarovar; he is believed to have attained Samadhi, near Kedarnath, now in Uttarakhand.
While Kalady’s Kaipally Mana is widely acknowledged as the birthplace of Adi Shankaracharya, the well-preserved Melpazhur Mana in Piravam, the birthplace of Shankara’s mother Aryamba, also claims the same. For the curious traveller, Piravam is 45km from Kalady, via Perumbavoor along Puthenkurish Road and is managed by the Chinmaya International Foundation, which conducts camps and programmes for tourists.They can arrange lunch if emailed ahead of time.
Timings 9:30am–5:00pm, Office Closed Sunday Tel 0484-2747307/ 2747104
Inputs by Latha Anantharaman
FAST FACTS |
When to go Preferably post-monsoon, during the months of September to May, unless you’re here for Ayurvedic treatments |
Tourist Office |
District Tourism Promotion Council District Ernakulam Location Kalady, the birthplace of Adi Shankaracharya, is on the banks of the Periyar river in northern Ernakulam District, 9km E of Angamaly Distance 46km NE of Kochi Route from Kochi NH47 to Angamaly via Ernakulam, Edappally, Kalamassery and Aluva, SH1 to Kalady via Vengoor |
GETTING THERE |
Air Nearest Airport: Cochin International Airport, Nedumbassery (10km/30min). Prepaid taxis to Kalady cost about ₹440 and ₹484 |
Rail Nearest Railhead: Angamaly (12km/ 30min), served by most trains that stop at Ernakulam. Taxis will cost ₹500 and autos between ₹200–300 |
Road Kalady is just 10km away from Angamaly on NH47 and down SH1 (also known as Main Central Road), via Ernakulam, Edappally and Aluva |
Bus There are no direct buses from Ernakulam to Kalady, but infrequent KSRTC and private bus services link Kalady with Angamaly |