Kamarajar: Peace in the Valley

The rustic and beautiful Kamarajar Valley is ringed by the Kannivadi and Palani hills. Surrounded by coffee, pepper and cardamom estates and home to a lake watered by two sprightly hill streams – the Kallalar and Kodavan – this valley holds a serenity you’ve only ever known in your dreams.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Plan a leisurely trip to this hill station. The tropical climate, coupled with the beautiful landscape will inspire you to catch up on some much needed rest and relaxation.

Kamarajar Lake

The homestays are all located on the northern banks of Kamarajar, an artificial lake created by the Kallalar and Kodavan rivers, which are basically the run-off from the steep hills that form a huge arc to the west and north. Take a walk around its 6-km circumference when the water level is relatively low, avoiding soft marshy ground. It shouldn’t take more than two hours of leisurely ambling. This may not be possible between November and March when the lake is fuller.

The garden at Cardamom House

Srikanth Kolari

Hiking

Walk further up the road you took past Athoor to the valley. It reduces to a footpath and climbs more than 1,000 m into the hills. The sparser vegetation of the plains becomes dense and the path takes you past mango groves and through forests to a beautiful waterfall. This can take between four and six hours and is not for the weak-kneed.

You can also trek through the hillside up to a less-travelled road that goes to Kodaikanal. Walk up along the road, which climbs along what are essentially the first hills of the Palani Range of the Western Ghats, affording magnificent views of the plains and valleys.

You could wander into the farms along side. There are mango and jackfruit orchards, limes and lemons abound, and there are lots of estates that grow coffee and pepper. Be careful as you explore these estates because they have no boundary walls and stretch to the edge where terra firma abruptly drops down several hundred metres into the valley.

Gorgeous vista of Kamarjar Lake and its environs

Srikanth Kolari

The trips can last as long as you want, since you can stop at any of the hamlets en route and take a bus to come down to Athoor. The homestays also provide guides for these treks.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

In the three homestays here, it doesn’t get any more rustic and secluded. Birds and butterflies flit about their gardens. Brahminy kites, owls and peacocks are frequent visitors. All three are operated by European expatriates who first came here in connection with children sponsored by them at Boys Town in Athoor, a hostelry for poor schoolboys run by an NGO. It is best to book in advance, though there may be vacancies from April to November.

An Englishman Dr Chris Lucas runs Cardamom House (Cell: 09360691793; Tariff: ₹4,100-8,500). The house sits on the slope and overlooks the lake. A farm adjoins it. Excellent Continental and Indian food is available, charged at around ₹1,500 per person per day.

Double Dutch Resorts (Tel: 04543-294499, Cell: 099434- 55642; Tariff: ₹3,000-4,200), also known as Holland House, is run by a Dutch couple Gemma and Gè Mol. Stay near the water in Villa Flamboyant, or in the economy room at the cottage. Food is charged extra ( ₹ 200-350 per meal ).

Lakeside (Tel: 0451-3202817, Cell: 09894563935; Tariff: ₹3,600- 5,700) is run by Joe Homan, also an Englishman. You can stay in the main house in one of the four double rooms, or in any of the five cottages on the grounds. Food is mostly Continental, but the Indian meals are low on spices.

When to go November-February is best Location In the foothills of the Kannivadi Hills in west-central Tamil Nadu Air Nearest airport: Madurai Rail Nearest rail: Dindigul Station