As you cruise down the Mumbai-Pune Expressway, keep the accelerator down past Lonavla, and turn into the nondescript town of Kamshet. The road rush begins to settle, but almost immediately the scenery changes and you are out and away from it all again – from the frenetic activity of Mumbai, and the mad rush of Mumbaikars in Lonavla. Surrounded by panoramic views of paddy and sunflower fields fringed by hills all around, Kamshet is a back-to-nature weekend par excellence. Its history has been shaped by the hills here. Once known for breeding fierce freedom-loving guerrilla warriors, they now play host to bands of fearless paragliding pilots and adventure lovers.
The locals, however, are unimpressed by these adrenaline junkies flying over their peaceful village roads and hills. Having witnessed world-class paragliding events and gatherings of pilots from all over the world, they no longer bother with the phuggawallas, or balloon men (local name for paragliding enthusiasts) and their fascination with the ancient hills and skies.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Whether you are looking for adventure sports opportunities or simply wish to enjoy the breathtaking views in solitude, Kamshet will not disappoint.
Vadivali Lake
Vadivali Lake is a delightful body of water and a habitat for a variety of birds. Although it is an artificially created lake, formed by the Uksan Dam, it stretches for miles, and is circumscribed by the surrounding hills. The Native Place Guest House is located on the lake.
Adventure activities
If you have always wondered what a bird’s eye view really is, give paragliding a shot. The intricacies of this delightful adventure sport can be mastered over two weekends. Those who don’t want to push their limits but still want the rush, a tandem ride (a ride in which an experienced pilot does all the work) should do the trick.
Kondeshwar Temple
The isolated Kondeshwar Temple stands among wild flowers and a gurgling stream that runs behind it. The stream turns into a pleasant three-tiered waterfall in the monsoons. A few metres ahead is a clearing flanked by cliffs on both sides. This is a perfect place for a quiet picnic. However, if you have a rope and the right skills, a hike to Bhairi Caves on the cliff to your right can be a satisfying experience.
Bedsa Caves
This set of caves is very different from the famous Karla and Bhaja caves near Lonavla. To get to them, drive towards Kale Colony and Pawna Lake. About 8 km down this road you’ll see the caves on your right, halfway up the hillside. A motor able road leads to the base village of Bedsa. From there it’s an easy half-hour climb. The majestic pillars in front of the main chaitya look almost Roman and are visible from far away. These Hinayana Buddhist caves are believed to date back to the 1st century BCE. Take a close look at the sculptures of animals and dancing figures here.
SHOPPING
This is the back of beyond. Don’t expect to spend time shopping unless it is for colourful patchwork quilts. In Kamshet town you may pick up Indrayani rice, a fragrant variety grown in this area. The perfect accompaniment is the famous mango pickle available in giant one kilogram packs.
WHERE TO STAY
Kamshet is a small hill station still largely untouched by the commercial tourism machine, with no restaurants and shops for miles around. Accommodation options are limited to a few establishments, with meals often included in the tariff. It makes sense to book in advance here. The Native Place Guest House (Mumbai Tel: 022-26053742, Cell: 09323708809; Tariff: ₹5,000–12,000, tents ₹1,800 per person, dorms ₹1,800 per person, with meals), on the Vadivali lakefront, has two inner courtyards, a living room facing the lake, and a huge sitout perfect for watching the sunset. They also organise nature trails and walks and treks to the waterfalls.
TIP Choose a festival weekend to sample Konkan delicacies and the staple village meal of bhakri and til chutney
For those who want solitude, the isolated Nirvana Cottages (Mumbai Tel: 022-26053724, Cell: 093237-08809; Tariff: ₹6,500, with meals and including taxes) is a good bet. Specify your meal times and a basket will be left at your doorstep.
YMCA Camp Lakeside (Mumbai Reservations: 022-25014963; Tariff: ₹800–1,500 per person) is about 40 km from Kamshet, on Andhra Lake. Getting here isn’t very easy, but when you do get there, you’ll find the ride worth it. Camp Lakeside, about 40 km from Kamshet, is situated right on the banks of Andhra Lake, not far from the Nethersole Dam. You’ll first see nothing but mounds of landscaped earth and a large white canopy – the dining hall. Camp Lakeside is a bit of a surprise because it’s so taste – fully designed. You can choose to stay in either tented or cabin accommodation. There are 10 cabins and 10 tents. Activities offered include rock climbing, archery, nature treks, zip-line, swimming, kayaking, rappelling, raft-building, ropes course, games, arts and craft, campfires, etc. All the activities are priced at ₹50–500 per person. Archery is priced at ₹100 per person, per activity session. The camp has a conference hall, a shooting range and a basketball court.
To get to Camp Lakeside from Kamshet, drive (or take the train) to Kanhe Station (also called Kanhe Phata), 5 minutes away. From there turn left, cross the railway line and follow the road to Khandi and finally to Nilshi village (a total of 40 km/ 1.5 hrs). Camp Lakeside is about one kilometre from Nilshi.
WHERE TO EAT
Apart from the food at the hotels and camps, highway restaurants in the dhaba tradition are Sunny and Babi da Dhaba for tandoori rotis, Mughlai food and Indian Chinese. Rangoli Restaurant, also on the highway and just outside Kamshet town, is perfect for a filter coffee and a quick Udipi snack.
Blown Away
Up in the air, with your hand on the controls, the wind in your hair and the gentle flutter of the rainbow-coloured wing overhead, a sense of tranquillity washes over you. The spectacular scenery unfolds below, you feel confidence as well as peace, as you gently glide forward.
Then, as the earth rushes upwards to meet you, radio silence is broken and a voice in your ear reminds you to pull the brakes, take a few steps in the air and touch the ground running. This essentially covers the thrills of a first solo paragliding flight.
Nirvana Adventures, Indus Paragliding and Temple Pilots are established names in this thrilling aero sport here in Kamshet. Nirvana Adventures (Mumbai Tel: 022-26053742, Cell: 09323708809; W flynirvana.com) offers several paragliding courses (₹10,000–20,000) for kids and grown-ups, some of which can be done over a weekend. And what you get at the end of it is a weekend break that offers you thrills and that rarer commodity – a feeling of being in control and pleased as punch with yourself. Tandem Joyrides at Nirvana can be had for ₹3,000.
Sanjay Pendukar’s Indus Paragliding (Cell: 09869083838; W indusparagliding. in) offers courses ranging from ₹9,500-18,500. The highlight is your first solo flight under direct radio supervision of your instructor. A 10-minute joyride costs ₹2,500–3,500. At Amarjit Malik’s Temple Pilots (Cell: 09920120243, 09970053359; W templepilots.com), the course fee for kids and adults ranges from ₹18,000–60,000. Tandem joyrides are at ₹3,000–6,000.
FAST FACTS |
When to go Nature trips and spur-of-the-moment weekends can be indulged in throughout the year. October to June is for paragliding. Monsoon is waterfall-spotting time |
Tourist Office |
MTDC, Karla Region Desh Location 17 km before of the twin hill stations of Khandala and Lonavla, 2,100 ft above sea level Distance 48 km NW of Pune Route from Pune Mumbai-Pune old highway |
GETTING THERE
Air Nearest airport: Pune’s Lohegaon International Airport (48 km/ 1.5 hours). Taxi costs about ₹1,500–2,000 |
Rail Nearest railhead: Lonavla (17 km/ 1.5 hours). Take the ST bus or an auto or a jeep to Kamshet. Bus tickets cost `20 aprox, auto costs ₹175, jeep hire ₹1,000; local trains from Lonavla also available upto Kamshet |
Road Road Take Mumbai-Pune old highway while going from Pune. Take Mumbai-Pune Expressway, exit at Lonavla, then continue 11 km on the old highway towards Pune past Karla to Kamshet town (on the left), while going from Mumbai. Enter the town and take the road going out past the railway tracks, the river and on to Vadivali Lake |