Kanjirappally: Queen of Malanad

Kanjirapally is called the ‘Queen of Malanad’, the one who rules over the land of mountains. A small, but stunningly green kingdom, with immeasurable beauty, Kanjirapally is dotted with rubber plantations, where most of the trees slant eastwards, as though reaching for the sun. Sheets of white rubber hang from the clotheslines tied to the trees, earnestly flapping in the wind, and layers of dry leaves carpet the ground, crunching deliciously under the feet of the adventurous traveller.

This is true plantation country. Life here has a charming slowness, with days built around a luxurious routine of card games and drinks in local clubs, and the aroma of fried snacks wafting from kitchens. The plantation culture is deeply ingrained in Kanjirappally, harking back to the days of the British. Life in Kanjirapally has revolved around rubber since the early years of the 20th century, when the British set up an estate in Mundakkayam. The first rubber sapling planted in Mundakkayam has become an enduring motif of this century-old love story, protected by a ministone wall in the Kollamkulam Estate at Aanakallu.

Kanjirappally also embodies Kerala’s multicultural heritage. In a small town in the countryside stands the Vavar Mosque, a mandatory stop for pilgrims en route to Sabarimala. The churches here flourished under the patronage of the local rulers. Many cultures and faiths blend seamlessly in this town, adding a sense of peace and harmony to the beautiful countryside.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Kanjirappally’s treasures include churches, mosques as well as temples. The obvious beauty of this town runs deep and can be found in the most unexpected of places – a sword believed to have belonged to Lord Ayyappa, for instance, is found within the premises of an old and crumbling hut.

St. Thomas Benedectine Monastery

This Roman Catholic monastery lies about 5 km from Kanjirappally Junction at Kappadu. The new chapel here has distinctive Hindu influences; for instance, a multitiered kalvillakku (stone lamp) topped by a cross greets visitors in the front yard. Huge, carved wooden doors open to a marble floor, where three pillars support a roof adorned with elaborate floral patterns. The altar has stained-glass windows. The most unusual artefact here, however, is a traditional Hindu ornament-box with a triangular lid placed inside the niche of a marble pillar.

St. Mary’s Church

Established in 1449, St. Mary’s Church, the oldest in town, has been preserved in its original form despite many attempts towards a renovation. Located on the road to Erattupetta, this simple structure is more like a shrine, with motifs that are usually found in Syrian Christian churches.

Timings 5.30am–8.00pm Tel 04828-204586

Erumeli

It is difficult to believe that this small panchayat, 17km southeast of Kanjirappally, with many narrow roads and shops, can host almost 10 million pilgrims who stop here en route to Sabarimala, 40km away. Legend has it that Lord Ayyappa killed the demon Mahishi here, as the latter was terrorising local inhabitants in the guise of a buffalo. The word eruma, from which the town derives its name, means ‘buffalo’ in Malayalam. And every year between 15 November and 16 January, Erumeli is packed with devotees. The Makaravilakku, a light that appears on the horizon over Sabarimala, usually on 14 January, is considered miraculous. This, along with the Petta Thullal dance, which symbolises the joy people felt after Mahishi’s death, are two highlights of the town. The dance begins at Erumeli’s Kochambalam Temple, and performers dance all the way up to Sabarimala.

Imposing façade of Vavar Mosque, Erumeli

Vavar Mosque Erumeli

The Vavar Mosque, a beautiful ashgrey structure with lattice work on its walls and railings, is an enduring symbol of Hindu-Muslim amity. It is surrounded by wide corridors, with a spot demarcated for the specific purpose of breaking coconuts, which teem with devotees in the Sabarimala season. It is believed that Vavar, a Muslim, was a friend and guide to Lord Ayyappa. His good counsel helped the Lord obtain the milk of a tigress, which was necessary to kill Mahishi. Pilgrims visit the Vavar Mosque to celebrate the friendship of their lord and Vavar Swami. In fact, it is mandatory for first-time Sabarimala pilgrims to visit the mosque.

Kochmbalam, Erumeli

Opposite the Vavar Mosque is the Sree Dharma Sastha Temple, also known as Kochambalam. Although the temple is very small, it has vast grounds with makeshift shelters to accommodate a large number of pilgrims. It is here that Petta Thullal dance begins. Devotees receive the prasadam, spread ash all over their bodies, pay homage to the garuda, or eagle, Krishnaparunthu and set off dancing to Sabarimala.

Valiyambalam, Erumeli

The Valiyambalam is an archetypal Keralite temple – long and rectangular with intricate woodwork on its walls. The grounds around the temple accommodate a resting station with 50 rooms and other temporary shelters. To the left is a bathing ghat filled with water from the Koratty river, brought here by a long pipe. Devotees take a dip here before setting off for Sabarimala. The road from Kochambalam to Valiyambalam is a part of the holy path to the shrine of Ayyappa.

A traditional Kanjirappally mana, a Kerala Brahmin house

Puthenveedu, Erumeli

At the heart of Erumeli Town, in a house belonging to Puthenveettil Gopala Pillai, lies the ancient relic of the 75-cm-long sword believed to have once belonged to Lord Ayyappa. Legend has it that this sword was gifted by the lord to an old woman who lived there, in return for her hospitality. It is also believed that this was the sword that he used to slay Mahishi. Today, the hut is quite dilapidated, with crumbling wooden beams barely supporting the roofs and verandahs on all sides. The sword is preserved in a room lit by a brass lamp. Locked for most of the year, it is brought out during the Sabarimala season, and displayed to the devotees who come in hoards to witness the relic. Although it does seem as though the walls are ready to cave in, a devaprasanam (astrological pattern) indicates that this hut must always be left as it is. The current resident of the house, Gopala Pillai, has repeatedly turned down the Travancore Devaswom Board’s offers to buy the house from him, as he believes that the ‘Puthenveedu’ is his legacy.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

A trip to Kanjirappally is all about experiencing Kottayam plantation life on one of the large estates that surround the town.

The 1930-built Kalaketty Estate Bungalow (Tel: 04828-235223, 236999; Tariff: ₹12,000, with meals) overlooks fields of paddy, banana and vegetables as well as tapioca plantations. To its west, it is bordered by a stream. The building is a typical blend of early Syrian-Christian home architecture in traditional Keralite style. The estate organises visits to the Marmala Falls.

The Evergreen Estate Bungalow (Tel: 284310, Cell: 09447084310; Tariff: ₹8,000, with meals), built in an Art Deco style, is at Kootickal. The Estate offers two rooms, aesthetically furnished with modern facilities. Kootickal is ahead of Mundakayam, a left turn off the KK Road.

Madukkakuzhy Ayurveda Homestay (Cell: 09495312769, 09447173757; Tariff: ₹5,000, with meals as well as Ayurveda) is a nice, clean place to rejuvenate. The hilltop Chamundi Hill Palace Ayurvedic Resort (Tel: 251246, 251739; Tariff: ₹5,000–10,000) in Nadukani offers authentic Ayurvedic treatments and super views.

The long driveway of the elegant Mundakayam Club (Cell: 090485 80972; Tariff: ₹1,750) can be seen from uphill, while descending down the serpentine KK Road. Established in 1912 by early planters, the club today has more than 200 members. They rent out a two-room cottage to non-members and offer access to the club’s facilities including the tennis court, snooker and a small library. Another good place to stay is Hotel Elegance (Tel: 201590-93; Tariff: ₹2,000–3,000), opposite Panchayat Office, with clean and spacious rooms, a restaurant and a beer and wine parlour.

Treehouse at a spice plantation