Kerala: Varkala on the Rocks

Most seaside destinations along the western coast of India offer sublime views of the Arabian Sea. The seaside at Varkala, located around 46km to the north of Thiruvananthapuram, looks just as gorgeous and inviting as the sea. Mariners sailing towards the coast of southern Kerala are greeted by the beautiful, ragged line of red cliffs that mark Varkala, a stunning contrast to the green coconut palms that are silhouetted against the deep blue sky. The sea here seems infinite and unblemished – white-laced waves of aquamarine waters crash against the towering ochre rock. Even now, when tourism has started to take off as an industry in this region, Varkala offers each visitor the undiluted joy of exploration, to make for a truly memorable holiday.

Things to See & Do

Varkala is a small town. For the tourist in search of some much needed rest, its allure lies mainly in the seashore. The 2-km-long cliff face stretches from the South Cliff to the Thiruvambady Beach at the northern end of Varkala, with the main hub, the North Cliff, sandwiched between the two. At the height of the tourist season, after the monsoons and before the summer, it is possible to hire bikes from one of the many restaurants along the cliff to explore the region. What makes Varkala attractive is that it offers all the pleasures of the far more famous Kovalam without the chaos and crowds that a booming tourist economy typically brings. As though this is not enough, Varkala is also fringed by serene backwaters, cool natural springs and solitary beaches.

Janardhana Swamy Temple

The waves of the Arabian Sea also lap gently at the sacred grounds of this 800-year-old temple. Believed to have been established two millennia ago, the Janardhan Swamy Temple’s current structure is dated to the 12th century. Accessible from the Temple Junction or the beach via the western entrance, the temple has an ancient tank fed by a perennial spring called Padmatheertham.

Varkala’s name is tied up with the legend that cloaks this shrine. Once upon a time, the sage Narada was on his way to meet Brahma. His singing, on the way, lured Lord Vishnu to follow him. As he reached the abode of Brahma, however, Vishnu disappeared in a flash. Brahma, who had seen him, bowed his head in obeisance. But the mendicants at his court mistook the gesture to be directed at Narada and ridiculed Brahma, leading the god to banish them in a fit of rage. Bereft, they pleaded with Narada for mercy, who threw his valkalam (bark worn as a garment) at the spot where they were to perform their penance. The place where the valkalam fell came to be known as Valkala and, later, as Varkala. Vishnu, the main deity at the temple, then blessed the spot with a pond, the Chakrathirtham, just next to the Janardhanaswamy Temple.

The mendicants drank the dregs of the holy water, which came to be called papanashini, the ‘purifier of sins’. Thus, the beach is now known as the Papanasham Beach. Hindu pilgrims come here to perform final rites for the deceased.

Timings 4.00am–12.00pm & 5.00– 8.00pm Main Festival 10-day Varkala Festival from 15 March onwards Tel 0470-2607575

Papanasham Beach

As per legend, a dip in the sea here is considered purifying and holy, though the littering in the area regrettably discourages such a foray. The same applies to the natural spring, said to have curative properties, which originates from the cliff. However, the panorama of the crescent-shaped beach is worth a visit, heightened by the long stretch of red laterite cliffs.

The cliff is an irresistible feature of Papanasham Beach, and those who climb up are rewarded with a gorgeous view of the setting sun. It is advisable to stay away from the beach on new moon days, when it is crowded with pilgrims. Do not venture far out into the sea during off season, for there are not too many lifeguards posted here.

Thiruvambady Beach

The North Cliff descends into the Thiruvambady or Black Sand Beach, a short stretch by the sea for those seeking silence and serenity. This stretch can be reached by climbing down from the North Cliff or driving a kilometre down the Thiruvambady Road. This relatively solitary stretch offers easy access to all the benefits of the North Cliff without the bustle of restaurants and hawkers.

Sivagiri Mutt

Sivagiri is sprawled across 200 acres of sanctified land, the final resting place of Sree Narayana Guru, one of Kerala’s most eminent spiritual leaders and social reformers. Sree Narayana Dharma Paripalana Yogam, the organisation that he founded to uplift backward and oppressed classes, has its headquarters here. The Maha-samadhi of the revered Guru is located atop a hillock, beyond which lies his former residence, where his humble belongings are kept on display.

Devotees at the 2,000-year-old Janardhana Swamy temple

To the left is the Sarada Temple, dedicated to Saraswati, whose idol was installed by the Guru. The Mutt is a vast expanse of organic farms and rare species, making for a restful, sombre experience for anyone who decided to pay a visit.

Timings 5.30am–12.00pm & 4.30–7.00pm Tel 0470-2602807 Fax 0470-2602221 Email sivagirimutt@gmail.com W sivagiri.info, W sivagiri.org

An Evening of Kathakali

The Varkala Cultural Centre, behind the helipad, stages regular Kathakali performances on nearly all evenings during the tourist season. Tickets for performances cost around ₹175.

Entry ₹175 Timings 6.30–8.00pm Tel 0470-2608793

Kappil Beach

The Kappil Beach is witness to the confluence of the beach and the backwaters. Secluded and scenic, it is a beautiful, closely guarded secret. There are no tourists, no vendors or shops, and no traffic. The only sound to be heard is of the lapping waters of the lake and the sea rolling across the sandy beach. It is possible to hire boats at the Priyadarshini Boat Club nearby for a ride in the backwaters that hug the sea.

Fare Safari Boat (for eight people) ₹250 (20 min), ₹500 (40 min), ₹600 (one hour); Row Boat (for four people) ₹75 (30 min), ₹150 (one hour) Tel 0470-2662323

Fishermen attending to a net at Kappil Beach

Courtesy Kerala Tourism

Where to Stay & Eat

Varkala has plenty of hotels to choose from. The Taj Gateway Hotel (Tel: 0470-667330; Tariff: ₹8,000–10,000) in Janardhanapura, is the most luxurious option. Located a kilometre away from the North Cliff, Taj has garden view rooms and sea view rooms. Its Ayurvedic Centre is the best you can get in Varkala. Sea Pearl Chalets (Tel: 2660105, Cell: 09447719465; Tariff: ₹2,000–3,400) at South Cliff offers the best view and Ayurvedic treatments. Clafouti Beach Resort (Tel: 2601414; Tariff: ₹2,200–15,000), on Temple Road, offers 28 rooms and a restaurant.

The Hindustan Beach Retreat (Tel:2604254-56; Tariff: ₹4,000–6,000) is located on the cliff but in a rather crowded area, close to Papanasham Beach. Kattil Beach Resort (Cell: 09895582740; Tariff: ₹1,200–3,500) has 12 rooms, a restaurant and Ayurveda. Panchavadi Ayurvedic Beach Resort (Tel: 2600200, Cell: 09745449975; Tariff: ₹750–2,700) in Papanasham has 24 rooms, a restaurant and Ayurveda and arranges backwater trips and elephant rides. Anamika Ayurvedic Heritage Resort (Tel: 2600095, Cell: 08594072777/ 3777; Tariff: ₹2,500–4,0000) near Papanasam Beach has 22 rooms and a restaurant serving home-style Kerala meals. The Krishnatheeram Ayur Holy Beach Resort (Tel: 2601305, Cell: 8113934411/2211; Tariff: ₹2,000–5,250) has a superb sea view and a private walkway to the beach. All the rooms in Green Palace Seaside Hotel (Tel: 2601962/ 055; Tariff: ₹1,500–3,000) are sea-facing with private sit-outs.

The Hill View Beach Resort (Tel: 2605744, 2607221, 2608989, Cell: 09947441363, 09995572200; Tariff: ₹875–7,000) near the helipad on the North Cliff also offers a range of Ayurvedic treatments. As does Hill Top Ayurvedic Beach Resort (Tel: 2601237/ 443, 2610443, Cell: 09746586261; Tariff: ₹1,00–5,000) on North Cliff, near Kattil Beach. Hill Top has a Tibetan restaurant. Akhil Beach Resort (Tel: 2602341, Cell: 09895998141, 09400292929; Tariff: ₹1,500–10,000), also on North Cliff, has 83 rooms, a garden restaurant, a swimming pool, Ayurveda and yoga centre.

The Thiruvambadi Beach Retreat (Tel: 2601028, Cell: 09562454757; Tariff: ₹2,000–3,500) is located a few steps from Thiruvambadi Beach, away from the hustle. It has spacious and comfortable rooms and cottages. Patanjali Resort (Cell: 0846584401, 09497033389, 09447763250; Tariff: ₹750–3,500), earlier The Seabreeze, is right on the Thiruvambadi beach and has comfortably furnished seafacing rooms.

At South Cliff, the Varkala Marine Palace Restaurant serves exquisite seafood. Especially, try out their delicious calamari crumb fry. The multicuisine restaurants at North Cliff are more up-market and offer a superb view with some excellent seafood. Try the Sea Rock Café for excllent pasta and fish. A number of restaurants here offer good Tibetan fare as well – momos, thupka and Tibetan tea. The Taj Gateway’s all day dining serves delicious multicuisine fare. They have a nice sunken bar too.

AROUND VARKALA

Anjengo Fort (20km)

Anjengo was one of the most important bastions of the British East India Company, second only to Mumbai. In the late 17th century, Ummayamma Rani of Attingal allowed the British to build a fort here, and the construction of Anjengo Fort was completed in the year 1695.

This fort was the first signalling station for ships arriving from England, also serving as a depot for the pepper and coir trade. It is now possible to visit the gardens within the fort, which houses a number of tombstones, the earliest of which dates back to 1704. This fort lies to the southern side of Varkala via Kadakkavur.