Sprawling over an area of 1,784sq km, Khangchendzonga National Park (KNP) was established in August 1977. With altitudes ranging from 1,830m to over 8,550m, the park has the mighty Mt Khangchendzonga, considered the state’s guardian deity, looming over its western border. The name means five treasures of snow; legend says there are treasures of Buddhist texts and artefacts hidden on the peak. However, the five treasures of the area from the wildlife point of view could well be the snow leopard, red panda, lammergeier, blood pheasant and rhododendron. These and many more high-altitude fauna and flora thrive in KNP’s habitat of pristine forests, lush green meadows dotted with wild flowers in spring, and fast-flowing torrents of glacier-fed rivers and streams.
This is one Indian national park that has a positive conservation tale to tell. The Wildlife Wing of Sikkim Government’s Forests, Environment and Wildlife Management Department (FEWMD) has chalked out an effective plan to preserve KNP’s biodiversity. With most parts of the park being inaccessible and logistical difficulties preventing the permanent presence of FEWMD staff here, the department is involving villagers here in the conservation process through Eco-Development Committees. With growing awareness, the local communities have become strict and cooperate with extremely competent forest guards. This has controlled flora and fauna thefts in the region.
Non-governmental organisations are also playing an active role in weaning away villagers from forest dependence by training local communities for alternative livelihoods, such as sustainable eco-tourism and dairy farming. And as with all of Sikkim’s forests, KNP is also protected by strict rules of movement and stay, designed to guard the woodlands from non-biodegradable debris and fire, and to keep the water sources unpolluted. Picking up any flora or fauna, especially butterflies or birds, is a legal offence.
Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary, south of KNP, covers an area of 104sq km, with altitudes of 2,100–3,500m. The Rambong river or Rammam Khola separates it from West Bengal in the south. As the name suggests, the sanctuary was created to protect the 30 or more species of rhododendrons found in the region. But you will also find oak, chestnut, maple, fir and bamboo groves, which are good habitats of the red panda and various species of birds, amongst others.
Located to the southeast of Khangchendzonga National Park, Maenam Wildlife Sanctuary is the smallest of the three reserves, covering 36.5sq km. The park’s altitude varies from 2,000m to 3,250m, fostering the growth of species such as oak and rhododendron as well as scrub forests. The upper ridges of the sanctuary were degraded about 50 years ago by overgrazing.
As at KNP, FEWMD has done some admirable conservation work at Maenam and Barsey as well. Both these sanctuaries had shepherds’ huts, locally known as goths, less than a decade ago. FEWMD started evicting them in 1999 and they have since been resettled outside the sanctuaries. This has reduced the human and cattle pressures on these two parks to a great extent.
ORIENTATION
Towering peaks and glaciers dominate KNP, surrounding the park on all but its eastern side. Most of the taller peaks are to the west, including Khangchendzonga (8,596m), the world’s third highest, Kabru (7,320m) and Rathong (6,678m). Rushing rivers pass through the park, the more prominent ones being Rathong Chu and Prek Chu towards the park’s south. Scattered throughout the park are several waterfalls and lakes; the latter include Tsho Mite or Samiti Lake in the park’s central part and Laxmi Pokhari, Mayur Pokhari and Lam Pokhari on the western edge.
Visitors enter KNP through Yuksom, after obtaining a permit. Most wildlifers take the trail from Yuksom to Bakhim or Tshoka before carrying on via Phidang to Dzongri. This moderate trek, which takes 2–3 days one way, is one of the best ways to enjoy the park. The trail runs parallel to the course of the Rathong river in the initial stretch, and then to both Rathong and Prek, offering great views of both the rivers and of snowy peaks and glaciers at various points, as well as opportunities for wildlife spotting. The route up to Phidang is through dense forests of oak, rhododendron and mixed conifer trees, with the climb getting quite steep at certain stretches up to Bakhim and then again from Tshoka onwards. From Phidang, the vegetation starts to thin out and so does the air. Rhododendron trees give way to shrubs and dwarf rhododendrons and most trekkers usually start to breathe heavily because of low oxygen levels. Spend a day at Dzongri to enjoy awe-inspiring views of several peaks, including Khangchendzonga and of furry yaks grazing on the meadow here.
Tip Carry plenty of salt or tobacco to get rid of leeches that will cling to you at certain stretches if you are trekking in the rainy season. Non-trekkers should note that exploration of KNP by vehicle is not possible
Porters, guides and permits to enter the park are available in Yuksom, which also has some good hotels and restaurants. Within KNP, whether you are camping out or staying in Trekkers’ Huts or the rare private lodge at a few places along the trail, you can be assured of an unending supply of pure mineral water from the numerous mountain streams around.
◆ KNP entry fee Indians ₹100; Foreigners ₹300 Guide fee ₹300 per day Porter fee ₹200 per day Tent pitching fee ₹100 per tent per day Camera Still ₹10; Video ₹500
There are three entry points for Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary – Hilley, Dentam and Soreng. Most visitors prefer to enter through Hilley because of the motorable road all the way to this point. The 4-km gradual walk up north from Hilley to Barsey Top takes less than two hours, so you can return in the afternoon. But it’s worth spending the night at Barsey Top either at the hotel there or in a tent on the camping ground in front of the Forest Barrack.
◆ Sanctuary entry fee Indians ₹100; Foreigners ₹300 Guide fee ₹300 per day Porter fee ₹200 per day Tent pitching fee ₹100 per tent per day Camera Still ₹10; Video ₹500
Maenam Wildlife Sanctuary has a single entry point that is a kilometre away from the quiet village of Rabangla, at the foot of Mt Narsing. From there, it’s a steep four-hour climb to Maenam Top, via a small hermitage and through forests of oak, chestnut, rhododendron and magnolia. Most visitors stay at Rabangla’s many hotels, but you can also camp at certain places within the sanctuary with prior permission from the Forest Department’s Wildlife Wing.
◆ Sanctuary entry fee Indians ₹100; Foreigners ₹500 Guide fee ₹300 per day Porter fee ₹200 per day Tent pitching fee ₹100 per tent per day
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
With its huge variety of flora and fauna and its moderate-to-high-altitude terrain, KNP offers ample wildlife sighting as well as trekking and climbing opportunities. The two smaller parks present the same delights, even though to a lesser degree. Additionally, you can opt to check out the region’s successful conservation efforts and its rich cultural legacy.
Heritage Trail
This region also offers rich sites for heritage tourism. Yuksom, for instance, is where three top Tibetan lamas consecrated the first king of Sikkim, Phuntsog Namgyal, as the Chogyal (the Dharma Raja), according to Buddhist scriptures and on the orders of the famous Guru Padmasambhava.
Don’t miss the majestic throne of consecration, sitting under a gigantic pine tree that is more than 400 years old. Also worth a visit here is the Dubdi Monastery, a 45-minute steep trek. It was set up by the ascetic Lhatsun Chenpo as early as 1641.
◆ Jeep rentals at Yuksom ₹3,000 per day (6 hours)
WHERE TO STAY
The hospitality industry is inadequately developed in remote corners of Sikkim, which opened to regular tourism only about 10 years ago. Though there are fine hotels in the state’s district headquarters, FRHs are not staffed throughout the year and prior booking is essential. However, just outside the forest reserves, especially at Yuksom, there are good homestays available along with some fairly decent budget options, as well as the occasional higher-end hotel.
In KNP
The Khangchendzonga Conservation Committee (Cell: 09733158268; Timings: 10.00am–4.00pm Monday–Saturday), in Yuksom, arranges homestays, which offer tourists the chance to connect with locals. Hotel Tashigang (Tel: 241202–03, Cell: 09733077249; Tariff: ₹2,500–3,500) is the best bet in Yuksom. They arrange trekking equipment as well. Hotel Yak (Cell: 09933020133; Tariff: ₹1,500–2,000) is a cosy set up. Yuksom Residency (Cell: 09933133330; Tariff: ₹3,200–5,550) is an upscale hotel.
Hotel Yangri Gang (Cell: 09434164408; Tariff: ₹700–1,500) is on the main street, with comfortable rooms and an in-house trekking agency Alpine Exodus Tours and Travels (Cell: 09735087508). For those on a tight budget, Hotel Demazong (Tel: 241215, Cell: 09775473687; Tariff: ₹300–800) is popular with trekkers.
Within KNP, the FRH at Bakhim is usually occupied by teams from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. But there are the Tourism Department’s Trekkers’ Huts along the main trek routes, at Bakhim, Tshoka, Dzongri, Thansing, Kokchorung and Samiti. These can be booked through any travel agent at Yuksom. Trekkers’ Huts charge ₹200 per person per day for providing accommodation. Two private lodges have come up at Tshoka, which provide better accommodation for ₹500–700.
Tip Most trekkers pitch tents in the Samiti premises, as the huts are in bad condition
In Ravangla
Mt Narsing Village Resort (Cell: 09434026822; Tariff: ₹950–2,500 and ₹1,308–2,767 during high season) is 3km from Ravangla. It offers cottage-style rooms and great views. Hotel 10zing (Cell: 09733122491; Tariff: ₹500–700), popular with backpackers, has friendly staff.
Another option is the Meanamla Hotel (Tel: 260666, Cell: 09830-026233; Tariff: ₹1,750–5,500), near the main bazaar. The Kookay Restaurant is famous for Tibetan dishes, curry and Chinese staples.
Inputs by Sujit Chakraborthy
GETTING THERE
To Yuksom
Air Nearest airport: Bagdogra (133km/ 3.5–4hrs). Taxi ₹3,500–4,000 (drop)
Rail Nearest railhead: New Jalpaiguri (136km/ 3.5–4hrs). Taxi as above
Road From Siliguri head for Yuksom, via Teesta Bazaar, Melli, Jorethang, Legship and Tashiding. The 141km/ 5.5hr journey by jeep costs about ₹4,500–5,000. From Yuksom, return the same way by bus or taxi. As taxis are few, book in advance for a pick-up either in Siliguri or in Jorethang Bus The journey takes about 5hrs from the Siliguri Bus Stand
FAST FACTS
When to Go April–June (summer), June–August (highland flowers), November–March (snow season)
Tourist Office
Sikkim Tourist Information Centre
MG Marg, Gangtok
Tel: 03592-209090
STD code Gangtok 03592
State Sikkim
Location North Sikkim District, with Yuksom as one of its entry points
Distance Yuksom: 136km NW of Jalpaiguri
Route from Jalpaiguri Via NH31A