Kochi’s unique identity as a commercial and political centre predates the arrival of the first European traders on its shores in the 16th century. Four centuries ago, Niccolo dei Conti advised fellow Florentines to make their money in Canton and to spend it in Kochi.
Once a small fishing hamlet, Kochi was transformed into a natural harbour by a flood in 1341 CE. Drawn by the rich aroma of spices and sandalwood, the first Colonial merchants arrived here around the 16th century CE and wrestled the profitable spice trade away from the Arab merchants. Mercantile interests propelled political ambition, and soon the appointment of the Thampuran (or Raja) of Cochin came to be controlled by Portuguese and, later, Dutch rulers. It was eventually the British East India Company that effected supreme control through colonisation. Kochi welcomed, endured and survived all traders and rulers who were lured by its undoubtedly bewitching shores.
Today, Kochi is the commercial and political hub of Kerala, where sea trade and modern commerce coexist with a thriving tourist economy. Being a city that has attracted people from all over the world through many centuries, Kochi is a multicultural hotspot where people of many different ethnicities, religions and nationalities live together in a synergetic environment. This spirit of symbiosis defines Kochi in more ways than one; an interdependent relationship exists between land and water, human settlement and ecology, modernity and history, adding to the cultural pluralism that is so fundamental to its identity.
A great way to experience this is to take a two-hour cruise along the Vembanad Lake. The lake, known as kayal in the local language, is home to thousands of fisherfolk. They can be seen gliding along in their graceful canoes, wide nets trailing, with the skyline of the Fort Kochi receding in the background.
ORIENTATION
The unique geography of one of India’s most beautiful ports affords every traveller a dramatic approach to Fort Kochi. Driving in from the airport down the Alleppey-Thiruvananthapuram Highway (NH47), the traveller first reaches Ernakulam, Fort Kochi’s busy, modern counterpart on the mainland. Massive container ships signal the bridge to Willingdon Island, across the calm waters of the Vembanad kayal. On the other side of the island is the palm-shrouded coast of Mattancherry, where the waters of the kayal seem to move with a greater urgency to meet the Lakshadweep Sea. The aroma of salt permeates the air, competing with the delicious scents from the bakeries of Thoppumpady Bazaar and the heavily packed spice markets of Mattancherry. The streets grow quieter in Fort Kochi, where time seems to have stood still.
The city of Kochi is Kerala’s most-visited destination, with many diverse experiences to offer, ranging from Ernakulam’s busy streets to Fort Kochi’s calm stillness. There are many ways to travel between the different parts of Kochi. Ferries are a cheap and but picturesque way to travel. Ernakulam’s Main Jetty, which starts near the Children’s Park, bring the traveller to Vypeen, Willingdon Island, Fort Kochi and Vallarpadom. Another jetty in Ernakulam is near the High Court on Shanmugham Road and carries passengers to Bolgatty. The KSRTC Bus Stand is behind Hotel Luciya, located approximately midway between the Ernakulam North and Ernakulam South railway stations. Taxis are aplenty, charging between ₹1,400 and ₹1,600 for a full day (for 8hrs, 80km). Auto-rickshaws are also available, and are particularly adept at negotiating the inner streets of Kochi. It is even possible to rent a bicycle to cruise through the quieter districts of Fort Kochi and Mattancherry.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
The Heritage Quarter of Fort Kochi and Mattancherry offers the maximum sights for tourists, while Ernakulam’s shops and cafés are excellent to unwind in during the evenings. The ferry rides to the islands across the kayals offer a peaceful experience, full of breathtaking views.
Fort Kochi
For most tourists, it is both comfortable as well as enriching to experience Fort Kochi on foot, given that the distances between most of the sights are quite short. With history to be discovered at every step, this is the best way to experience the Heritage Quarter.
Fort Kochi Bus Stand on Calvathy Road by the waterfront is a great place to land and take a breather; all the major sights are in its vicinity. A turn into any of the lanes running south off Calvathy Road will lead to the heart of Fort Kochi. A walking tour must include Koder House, Vasco House, Bastion Bungalow, Bishop’s House and Thakur House. For those with only a day to spare, it is possible to visit most of the sights at the heart of the Quarter before lunch, leaving enough time to explore the waterfront afterwards.
Fort Cochin Heritage Walks offers daily sightseeing tours and can also arrange customised walks for groups of five or more. These walks lead to 31 historical locations in Fort Kochi and cover history from 1341 CE to the present. It is advisable to wear comfortable clothes and walking shoes, and to carry a bottle of water and a few snacks.
Timings 8.00–10.00am & 4.30– 6.30pm Cell 09633973468 Tariff ₹300 per person
For a more luxurious experience of Fort Kochi, you could get in touch with KTDC, who can arrange cars and drivers for tours around Fort Kochi. This tour covers all prominent sights but does not include a tour guide.
Tariff Rs. 2,200 for a small car Tel 0484-2353234
St. Francis’ Church
The structure of St. Francis’ Church was built by Vasco da Gama, known for discovering the sea route from Europe to India, Pedro Alvares Cabral and Alfonso de Alberquerque in early 16th century CE. It was dedicated to St. Bartholomew initially, but in 1516 CE, it was rebuilt by Franciscan friars in stone and masonry, as per the Thampuran’s instructions. This new church was dedicated to St. Anthony.
As the axis of power shifted from the Portugese to the Dutch, and finally to the British, so did control over the church and its patron saint. Under the Dutch, the church served the Lutherans, and, eventually, under the British, the patron saint was changed to St. Francis.
The architecture of St. Francis’ church reflects an old worldly charm, with stepped pinnacles on either side of the building and decorative wood carvings. Of particular interest are the 16th century palm leaf deeds issued by the Thampuran, granting the Portuguese naduvazhi (middle-rung feudal lords) status and rights, and the Doop Book, an old Dutch register of baptisms and marriages between 1751 and 1804 CE.
Location Church Road Timings 5.30am–8:00pm Tel 0484-2217505 W stfranciscsichurch.org Videography not permitted
The Dutch Cemetery
The Dutch Cemetery is located on the road that veers towards the left from St. Francis’ Church, beyond the Parade Ground where European soldiers are supposed to have conducted drills in the past. The oldest grave in this cemetery is dated 1724 CE. The tombstones provide glimpses into Kochi’s famous Dutch heritage.
Fort Immanuel
Further down along the same road lies what remains of Fort Immanuel, built in 1503 CE to symbolise the alliance between the Thampuran of Kochi and the Monarch of Portugal. It was torn apart during the Dutch advent, and completely destroyed by the British in 1806. As a result, there is not much left of the imposing structure to see, other than a town that flourishes within its remains.
Old Colonial Houses
Fort Kochi is dotted with old Colonial-style houses, most of which are in good condition and have been converted into hotels. While Fort Kochi was significantly reduced in size under the Dutch, they took care to maintain the primary buildings. A number of the surviving warehouses, with wide, buttressed walls, possess distinctly Dutch aesthetics.
The most famous of the old Colonial houses is Thakur House, on Dutch Cemetery Road. This is a private residence that was made famous by Ismail Merchant’s 1999 film, Cotton Mary. Built by the Dutch as a club, the house overlooks the sea and is said to have underground passages. It is an indicator of the luxurious Colonial lifestyle and is a marvel of architecture, built with incredible symmetry.
Built in 1695 by the Dutch East India Company, Koder House is a striking three-storeyed boutique hotel located on Tower House Road. Its most famous occupant was Hendrik Adrian van Rheede, the Dutch Governor of Kochi from 1673 to 1677 CE. Originally known as David Hall, the hotel got its present name when Samuel Koder, a Jewish businessman, bought the house.
A walk down Rose Lane to the left of Koder House gives a sense of its architecture and history. A wooden bridge over the lane connects Koder House with The Old Courtyard. These two buildings were once a part of the same house, and both are now run as heritage hotels.
Built over the ruins of a Portuguese hospice in 1808, the Old Harbour Hotel acquired the character of a British inn. This Colonial mansion is also to be found on Tower House Road. Ballard Bungalow nearby is yet another heritage home that is now a hotel. At the crossroads stands the old Pierce Leslie Bungalow, the erstwhile office of the coffee merchants.
South of the Koder House, next to the Parade Ground, is Bastion House, built in 1667 to guard the harbour. This building commands a panoramic view of the sea.
Believed to have tunnels, it is now the sub-collector’s residence. It stands on the Stomberg Bastion of the old fort, which once supported cannons.
Malabar House, at the southern end of Parade Ground, has a striking Dutch Colonial façade. The building has been converted into a heritage hotel as well.
On a hillock overlooking the Parade Ground is Bishop’s House. Located on Elphinstone Road, its imposing Gothic arches proclaim the eminence of its earlier occupants. Built in 1506 on the Groningen Bastion of Fort Immanuel as the governor’s house, Bishop’s House was eventually acquired by Dom Jos Gomes Ferreira, the 27th Bishop of the Diocese of Kochi.
Within its premises is the Indo-Portuguese Museum, housing some of the earliest artefacts that belong to the diocese.
Entry Indians ₹10; Foreigners ₹25 Timings 10.30am–12.30pm & 2.30– 5:00pm, Closed Monday
VOC Gate
The VOC Gate, facing the Parade Ground, is an emblem of the Dutch East India Company. This large wooden gate was built in 1740. Walking through the gate to the roads behind St. Francis’ Church offers a completely different perspective of the latter.
Santa Cruz Basilica
Located on the right side of Bastion Street, Santa Cruz Basilica was built as a church by the Portuguese, and elevated by Pope Paul IV to a Cathedral in 1558. Following the Dutch conquest of Kochi in 1663, most places of worship were turned into warehouses, however, this cathedral was spared. Although the British demolished it in 1795 when they seized Fort Kochi, a new church was built on the vacant site in 1887, commissioned by Bishop Dom Jos Gomez Ferreira. The Gothic façade, with soaring spires, offers an imposing exterior. The interior is even more impressive, with beautiful paintings on the ceiling that recall the Sistine Chapel. In 1984, Pope John Paul II declared this structure a Basilica.
Timings 9:00am–1:00pm & 3.00–5.00pm Tel 0484-2215799 W santa cruzcathedralbasilica.org
Princess Street
A few steps from the Basilica, the Princess Street is one of the oldest streets in Fort Kochi, and houses many examples of Colonial architecture. At the northern end is the now abandoned Koder Warehouse, followed by a number of homestays and boutiques set in Colonial-era villas. Loafer’s Corner, a meeting spot at the intersection of Princess Street, Peter Celli Street and Bastion Street, offers an excellent view of the whole street.
Tel 0484-6060656
The Chinese Connection
The huge cantilevered cheenavalas or Chinese fishing nets, hanging from teakwood and bamboo poles can be seen off Vasco da Gama Square. These nets were introduced to local fishermen by Kublai Khan’s traders between 1350 and 1450 CE. They are mentioned by Ma Huan, a diplomat accompanying Chinese admiral Cheng Ho (1371–1433 CE), whose work also provides the first known historical reference to Kochi. He wrote, “The fishermen are tourist-friendly and will happily let you join them. Stalls serve fresh delicious seafood and tender coconuts and a spectacular view of the sunset.” Today, too, you can sample delicious seafood at the ‘You Buy, I Cook’ stalls near the Chinese fishing nets, and wash it down with tender coconut water.
MATTANCHERRY
Historically a flourshing business center, Mattancherry witnessed many migrants, invaders and traders of different ethnicities and nationalities, including the Jews, Konkanis, Gujaratis, Jainas and Marathis. Modern day Mattancherry reflects this ethnic and cultural diversity as well.
Calvathy Jamath Mosque
One example of Mattancherry’s diversity is the Calvathy Jamath Mosque, located on Calvathy Road. It stands on the waterfront between a synagogue and a church, blending effortlessly with the landscape. Built by Arab traders, it also reflects the Kerala style of architecture.
Mattancherry Palace
The Mattancherry Palace, built in 1555 CE, was gifted to the Thampuran by the Portuguese in a spirit of reconciliation after the sacking of the Palluruthi Temple in 1542 CE. After the Dutch defeated the Portuguese in the Battle of Mattancherry in 1662, the palace was renovated in the Burgher style of architecture. Intricate murals adorn the walls, executed in vegetable and mineral dyes. A temple dedicated to the tutelary deity of the Kochi Rajas stands in the courtyard.
Entry ₹2 Timings10.00am–5.00pm, Closed Monday Tel 0484-2367334 Cameras prohibited
Pardesi Synagogue
The Pardesi Synagogue brings together elements of Jewish, Dutch and Chinese aesthetics. The Cochin Jews were said to have arrived as traders during King Solomon’s reign. While only four major Jewish families remain in Kochi today, the Pardesi Synagogue is an enduring symbol of the contribution of the community to Kochi’s cultural heritage. Built in 1567, the synagogue was partially destroyed in 1664 when the Portuguese ransacked Jew Town and was rebuilt by the Dutch. Its Belgian chandeliers reflect the unique floor, with hand-painted willow patterned Cantonese tiles, a memorial to the Chinese-Jewish trade.
The synagogue is believed to house the oldest scrolls from The Old Testament, in the world, along with stone tablets with Mosaic Laws and Hebrew inscriptions. Also of historical interest are the copper plates issued by the Thampuran of Kochi (1565–1601 CE), bestowing land, rights and other powers equivalent to that of naduvazhis on the Jews. The synagogue’s clock tower, built in 1760 CE, has three remaining façades, inscribed with characters from Hebrew, Malayalam and Roman respectively. It is believed that the fourth, now covered with bricks, carried an inscription in Arabic. The area around the synagogue, known as Jew Town, is filled with antique shops and spice traders. The International Pepper Exchange is close to the synagogue as well.
Entry ₹2 Timings10.00am–1.00pm, 3.00–4.00pm, Closed Saturday and Jewish holidays Tel 1800-425-4747 Videography not permitted
ERNAKULAM
The banks, bars, eateries, boutiques and shops on Ernakulam’s arterial MG Road and the ‘Broadway Market’ are contemporary and chic, even as many of the buildings here retain their sloping roofs and inverted ‘V’ elevations, which hint at its history. There is nothing a shopper cannot find here. Beyond Broadway Market is the Marine Drive promenade, from where one can watch the Ernakulam-Vypeen ferry make its slow passage across the backwaters.
Shiva Temple
A place of greater historical and cultural interest in Ernakulam is the Shiva Temple, an oasis of calm amidst the bustle of modernity. The lingam here is said to have been worshipped by Arjuna, from the Mahabharata. To the north of the temple is a shrine without an idol, a symbol of Shiva as Kirathamoorthy, the forest hermit. The temple is also a part of the annual Ernakulam Utsava in January, spread over eight days. On the seventh day, the Pakalpooram, the deity is taken out in a procession with caparisoned elephants and the panchavadyam orchestra to add music.
Location Devaswom Buildings, Fore Shore Road Timings 3.30–11.30 am & 4.00–8.00 pm Tel 0484-2370415/ 2369804; W ernakula thappan.org
TIP Mobiles must be switched off inside the temple
ISLANDS
Once the British had reached an understanding with the Shakthan Thampuran in 1767, they artificially created Willingdon Island along with other islands in the area with dredged up silt. These islands tether the lagoon to its current channel so that it does not seek a shortcut to the sea and turn the city into a swamp. Willingdon Island is now mainly a trading centre, but the Indian Navy’s Southern Naval Command takes pride of place on the eastern coast, just across the Cochin Shipyard in Ernakulam.
The narrow village roads in Mulavukadu Island lead to Bolgatty Palace at the edge, the oldest existing Dutch palace outside the Netherlands, built in 1744 by a Dutch trader. This was later converted into the British Resident’s manor and now functions as a KTDC hotel. Taking the ferry to Bolgatty from Ernakulam affords a panoramic view of Willingdon Island, Mattancherry and Vypeen. The restaurant at the Bolgatty Palace offers a relaxed, if luxurious, ambience, with a beer parlour and lawns facing the lagoons, ideal for a lazy holiday experience.
Tariff ₹3,000–16,000 Tel 0484-2750500 W bolgattypalacekochi.com
Vypeen, shaped like a long finger, 24km long and 2.5km wide, with the sea and backwater on either side, offers a number of attractions. The Lighthouse at Ochanthuruth affords a panoramic view (Entry ₹5 Timings 3.00– 5.00pm Tel 0484-2205720), while the Church of Our Lady of Hope, built in 1605 and located near the Vypeen Jetty, offers a touch of history (Mass Timings Weekdays 6:30am in Malayalam, Sunday 6:30am and 8:30am in Malayalam, 5:00pm in English, Tel 04842502366). Most people, however, come to Vypeen to splash around on Cherai Beach.
SHOPPING
The flavours of Kochi’s ancient spice trade can be sampled at the wholesale markets in Mattancherry, where antiques, coffee and tea can be found alongside the usual souvenir bric-a-brac. The Malabar Spices Shop or RK Spices in Mattancherry are well known for black pepper, dry ginger, red chilli and galangal root. There are also many furniture shops that produce a variety of furniture made from rosewood. They are happy to ship their products to any part of the world.
Another hub for shoppers is MG Road in Ernakulam, where one finds modern branded stores. This market is also known for its gold jewellery. AKP Metals & Alloys (Tel 04842361298) on Broadway offers bronze and bell metal urlis, sold by the kilo. Their prices begin at ₹430 per kilo. For traditional Kerala mundus, head to Church Landings Street, where Balaramapuram Hand Weaves and Ramachandran and Kasavukada (Tel: 0484-2372395), located across each other, stock every kind of mundu. Another excellent place for mundus and traditional Travancore saris is Kalyan Silks. Handicrafts can be found at Kairali on MG Road. These include items made from cane, reeds, natural fibres, rosewood, sandalwood and cedar. The KTDC Complex on Shanmugham Road also offers handicrafts at government-controlled prices.
WHERE TO STAY
In Fort Kochi
Ranging from heritage homes to luxury suites, most of these options in the heart of Kochi’s heritage zone offer plenty of atmosphere and character. Malabar House (Tel: 04842216666; Tariff: ₹6,500–19,000) is an excellent hotel. The handsome 18th-century mansion offers a rich aesthetic experience, outstanding cross-cultural food and efficient, warm service. Trinity (Tariff: ₹6,500–17,200) has three suites on the first floor of the building that was once the headquarters of the Dutch East India Company. It’s an extension of Malabar House.
Koder House (Tel: 2218485-86; Tariff: ₹11,000–14,000) is the most striking building in Fort Kochi. The red-washed structure is located just off the beach. The three-storey hotel features only six suites, a spa and a tiny pool.
The CGH Earth Groups’ legendary Brunton Boatyard (Tel: 2215461-65; Tariff: ₹27,300–36,200) is built famously on a former boatyard, near the Chinese fishing nets. Its whitewashed walls, sloping tile roof and terracotta floors with a giant rain tree in front, blend with the old town’s casual spirit.
Princess Street has quite a few home stays. The most elegant of these is The Old Courtyard (Tel: 2215035/ 6302; Tariff: ₹3,000–5,000), set in a well-looked-after mansion, with just eight rooms decorated with antique Colonial furniture such as four-poster beds. Ballard Bungalow (Tel: 2215854; Tariff: ₹3,700) set in a heritage Dutch Colonial mansion near Port Boat Jetty on Ballard Road, is owned and run by the Cochin Diocese. The mansion has six rooms as well as a restaurant.
Set in another heritage Dutch mansion is Fort Heritage (Tel: 2215333/ 455; Tariff: ₹4,500–6,400) on Napier Street. Fort House (Tel: 2217103/73; Tariff: ₹4,800–6,000) is near the Customs House. Delight Homestay (Tel: 2217658, 2216301, Cell: 09846121421; Tariff: ₹2,000–4,500) is a favourite for its cleanliness, affordability, lovely location and very helpful owners.
On Bolgatty Island
At the tip of Bolgatty Island, KTDC’s Bolgatty Palace & Island Resort (Tel: 2750500/600; Tariff: ₹4,896–15,656) lords it over the harbour. Equipped with 58 elegant rooms, it has a restaurant, swimming pool, golf course, spa and also offers Ayurvedic wellness programmes and walking tours of Fort Kochi.
In Ernakulam
The International Hotel (Tel: 4150600/ 99; Tariff: ₹3,200–5,500) is in the city centre. It has class and carries an old-world charm. Le Meridian (Tel: 2705777; Tariff: ₹6,500–36,000) is in Maradu with a restaurant, bar, gym, spa and swimming pool.
The Avenue Regent (Tel: 2377977/ 688; Tariff: ₹7,000–10,000) on MG Road is an excellent option with 54 rooms, a restaurant and bar, a cake shop and travel desk. Grand Hotel (Tel: 2382061; Tariff: ₹3,900– 5,500) located on MG Road has 39 rooms, a multi-cuisine restaurant and offers sightseeing.
Hotel Abad Atrium (Tel: 4144000; Tariff: ₹4,500–5,500) also on MG Road, has 52 rooms, a swimming pool, health club and an Ayurveda centre.
Gaanam Hotel (Tel: 2375544, 2377202; Tariff: ₹1,000) on Chittoor Road offers 40 rooms, sightseeing and boat cruises. SM Regency (Tel: 2377776, 4032000; Tariff: ₹1,300– 1,800) on Nettipadam Road, has a restaurant.
The Renai Cochin (Tel: 2344463, 3919000; Tariff: ₹3,700–6,500) offers 47 rooms along with specialty restaurants, a swimming pool, gym, sauna, jacuzzi and Ayurveda. Alapatt Regency (Tel: 0484-2344413; Tariff: ₹1,200–1,800) at Palarivattam has a multi-cuisine restaurant and bar. The Renaissance Cochin (Tel: 04842344463-64; Tariff: ₹3,200–5,000) is amongst the best hotels in the city, with 47 rooms, speciality restaurants, a swimming pool, gym, sauna, Jacuzzi and Ayurveda.
On Willingdon Island
Vivanta by Taj – Malabar (Tel: 0484-2666811, 2668010; Tariff: ₹12,000–19,500) has heritage suites looking out on to the lagoon. The CGH Earth Group’s flagship Casino Hotel (Tel: 0484-2668421; Tariff: ₹3,250–6,600) offers unmatched views of the harbor, fabulous dining and Ayurvedic treatments. The Trident (Tel: 0484-2669595; Tariff ₹8,500–14,000) is housed in an elegant building with the traditional sloping terracotta tile roof.
On Vypeen Island
Stay near the beach in Cherai Beach Resort (Tel: 0484-2416949; Tariff ₹2,000–4,500), which has 45 cottages, Ayurvedic treatments and Ootupura Restaurant.
WHERE TO EAT
In Fort Kochi and Mattancherry
Most of the restaurants in the old Colonial town areas serve food blended with history, culture and their own personalities.
The Brunton Boatyard’s History Restaurant’s menu reads like a book on Kochi’s history. The dishes offered here have been carefully collected from families in Fort Kochi, with the intention of serving history on a plate. their open-air Tea Longe or the Armoury are lovely places to relax with beer and sandwiches in the evening. The ‘You Buy, I Cook‘ stalls near Koder House offer a piece of culinary history as well, mentioned in the chronicles left behind by the Chinese diplomat, Ma Huan, who speaks of fresh seafood served at these shores. The stalls here offer a choice of sole, lady fish, mullet, pomfret, king fish, tiger prawns, lobster, white king prawns, calamari, crab, oysters and mussels.
For a very satisfying Continental breakfast, you can head to the Old Courtyard, which also has on offer Portuguese dishes and some regional specialties from Kerala. An interesting blend of European and Malayali seafood cuisine is on offer at the Malabar House, where the seafood platter allows you to sample many different mouth-watering flavours.
The Teapot on Peter Celli Street, is decorated with hundreds of ageing kettles and Vasco da Gama ashtrays. Its bright walls and handwritten menus on the blackboard give it a very chic character. The tea house offers an excellent peppermint-flavoured Nilgiri brew and a planter’s breakfast. The Kashi Art Café located on Burgher Street, set in an old Portuguese villa, is an oasis of calm, ideal for an afternoon cup of coffee while enjoying the art displayed in the front. The café offers a new menu every day.
For more authentic cuisine, try the legendary biryani at Kaikka’s in Mattancherry; be sure to arrive early as it finishes around noon.
In Ernakulam
Authentic Kerala food is best sampled in Ernakulam at Fry’s Village Restaurant, at the southern end of Chittoor Road. The Pai Brother’s Fast Food serves 36 varieties of dosa, so famous that the street was named after it. Only here will you find the crisp poddy onion bullseye dosa and the duck egg masala dosa. Four Foods Restaurant situated on Shanmugham Road serves separate menus for lunch and dinner. Sample the mini Travancore oonu, a simple vegetarian thali. Ceylon Bake House on MG Road is famous for their delicious idiappams.
Avenue Regent on MG Road serves Continental and Keralite food. You can choose from karimeen pollichadu, meen moilee, best had with appams (fluffy pancakes), roast pork cooked Kerala style and beef ullarichudu (beef with dry coconut). Vegetarians can try vegetarian stew with appams or the traditional kadala (chickpeas) curry and puttu (steamed rice cake).
Edible souvenirs can be bought at Ernakulam’s famous KR Bakes, which has several branchs across Kochi, best known for banana, karela, tapioca and jackfruit chips and the famous Kozikodan halwa.
The toddy shops at Nettoor and Mullapanthal near Thripunithura, offer the staple kappa meenkari, which is fish and tapioca, along with more exotic items such as rabbit and toad meat.
On Willingdon Island
Casino Hotel serves excellent Kerala food. The seafood is displayed in a trolley ad you get to choose what you want to eat and how you want it cooked. Those who like it spicy can try meen porichadu (fish fry) and fish curry. Vegetarians can opt for a banana leaf meal many delicacies to savour.
Try Pepper, the all-day fine-dining restaurant at Vivanta by Taj – Malabar, for a variety of mediterranean and Indian dishes. The Rice Boat Restaurant moored to the side of the Taj Malabar offers exotic seafood. The restaurant is notable because it is shaped like the kettuvalloms that ply the kayal, upon which the restaurant appears to float. Sometimes, massive ships can be seen gliding by from here.
AROUND KOCHI
Bhagavathy Temple,
Chottanikkara (12km)
The Bhagavathy Temple is one of Kerala’s most sacred shrines. It is dedicated to Goddess Rajarajeshwari, noted for her power to ward off mental ailments. The goddess is worshipped together with Lord Thripunithura. It is believed that Goddess Mookambika of Kollur in Karnataka comes to Chottanikkara for the early morning prayers, and returns to Kollur in time for the morning prayers there. Only Hindus are allowed access to this temple.
Timings 5:00–11:00am, 5:00– 8:00pm Special Ceremonies Tuesdays and Fridays 5:00–11:00am, 5:00pm–12:00am Tel 0484-2711032/ 300 Email info@chottanikkara bhagavathy.org, eo@chottanikkara bhagavathy.org; W chottanikkara bhagavathy.org
Shri Poornathrayeesa Temple, Thripunithura (10km)
Kerala’s temple festival season, from December to April, commences with the utsavam (festival), which takes place at the Poornathrayeesa Temple in Thripunithura. The 10-day-long Athachamayam Festival coincides with Onam, and commemorates what used to be an annual event in earlier times, when the Raja of Kochi travelled with his entire entourage to Thripunithura.
Hill Palace, Thripunithura (10km) Once the summer retreat of the Kochi Rajas, the Hill Palace is now a museum showcasing a collection of royal antiques such as the simhasana (throne).
Entry ₹5 Timings 9.00am–12.00pm & 3.00–6.00pm, Closed Monday
St. George’s Forane Church, Edappally (17km)
St. George’s Forane Church in Edappally is one of the oldest churches in Kerala, built in 595 CE on land donated by the Raja of Edapally. Even today, during the mass, soft Aramaic syllables blend with the Malayali inflection, melding into a single elision of the hymns. The church carries a four-armed pectoral cross, pediments and slatted louvers, all of which point towards iconography with a blended and multicultural origin. The church also hosts a 10-day feast for St. George starting from 25 April.
Timings 6.00am–8.00pm Tel 0484-2342538
The Museum of Kerala History, Edapally (17km)
Showcasing human evolution from the Neolithic period to the modern era with life-size replicas, this museum also features a gallery of paintings and sculptures, displaying over 200 original works by contemporary Indian artists.
Entry Adults ₹25, Children ₹8 Art Gallery and Doll Museum Entry Adults ₹25, Children Rs. 12 Timings 10.00am–4.00pm, Closed Mondays Tel 0484-2558296 W kerala museum.com
Wonderla Amusement Park, Veegaland (25km)
Chiselled into the hill to the east of Veegaland is the Wonderla Amusement Park with excellent water sports facilities. This is a popular weekend getaway for citizens and tourists alike.
Location 24km to the east, along NH47 and SH41 Entry Weekdays Adults ₹580, Children ₹470, Weekends Adults ₹780, Children ₹590 Timings Weekdays 11.00am–6.00pm & Weekends 11.00am–7.00pm Tel 0484-268400 W wonderla.com
Inputs by Latha Anantharaman and
Lesley A Esteve
FAST FACTS |
When to Go After the monsoon, from September to May. The Kochi Carnival takes place in the last week of December |
Tourist Offices |
District Tourism Promotion Council |
Ministry of Tourism |
KTDC Tourist Reception Centre District Ernakulam Location The port of Kochi encompasses Fort Kochi and Mattancherry, a cluster of islands on Vembanad Lake and Ernakulam and Thripunithura on the mainland Distances 218km N of Thiruvananthapuram, 223 km S of Kozhikode Route from Thiruvananthapuram NH47 to Ernakulam via Kollam, Kayamkulam, Ampalapuzha, Alappuzha and Cherthala; NH47A to Kochi |
GETTING THERE |
Air Cochin International Airport, Nedumbassery (37km/ 45min) has daily flights from all metros, Goa, and West and South-East Asia. Prepaid taxis are available at the prepaid counter (Tel: 0484-2610115, extn: 2107) for ₹920 to Ernakulam and ₹1,200 to Fort Kochi |
Rail Nearest Railhead: Ernakulam Town on Xavier Arakkal Road, Ayyappankavu, and Ernakulam Junction, on South Railway Station Road, both serve Kochi. Both are connected to Thiruvananthapuram and Mumbai by Netravati and Mangala Lakshadweep Expresses, to Bengaluru by the Kanyakumari Express, to Chennai by the Guruvayur and Alleppey Express, and to Delhi by the Kerala and Mangala Lakshadweep Expresses. Both stations are also well-connected with stations within Kerala such as Guruvayur, Kozikode and Thiruvananthapuram |
Road Ernakulam is on NH47, stretching from Salem to Kanyakumari, via Palakkad (146km), Thrissur (79km), Ernakulam, Alleppey (63km), Kollam (147km) and Thiruvananthapuram (210km). NH17, which starts at Mumbai and ends at Edappally, just north of Ernakulam, via Kudal (855km), Panjim (781km), Karwar (676km), Mangalore (410km), Kannur (286km), Kozhikode (174km) and Kodungallur (35km) |
Bus Ernakulam’s KSRTC Bus Stand (Tel: 0484-2372033) has daily services to almost all the destinations in Kerala |